Mikevan10

MIL code P0440 popped up on my 1997 Legacy 2.2 station wagon. I searched this forum and based on what I read the first thing I checked was the condition of the fuel filler pipe. The bottom of the plastic cover was packed with dirt and the pipe showed corrosion on the o.d. It also looked slightly damp but I couldn't tell if it was fuel leakage or just moisture from the dirt. I tapped the rusted area very lightly with my wrench and immediately got drips of gasoline. So I think it is very likely that there were pin holes in it. So I have procured a new filler pipe (Rock Auto $87.22 with shipping). My questions for y'all kind folks: 1. Gas tank is full. Will I get doused with fuel if I disconnect the pipe from the tank? If so, how much gas do I need to siphon out before it is safe? 2. Any tips on the procedure in general? 3. How does the computer know that there is a breach in the integrity of the system? Thanks! Mike V.

I thought Tax was recommending replacement of the rear brake cylinders in their entirty - not just the seals. Maybe he'll clarify... I have always started bleeding at the cylinder with the longest length of pipe from the master cylinder and worked my way sequentially to the shortest. Never heard of doing anything else.

My thoughts on this are that the folks on this message board tend to do all their own work, shop for the best parts prices, etc. so the prices you would pay to have a shop do everything for you seem barbaric to us. But I think that the prices your sister paid are not that unusual or out of line. Certainly no point in stressing over it now.

Thanks very much guys! I thought I was always desined to buy a new pipe or muffler once the floange rusted off the end of it. I guess I should have realized that someone had vcome up with a workaround. Thanks again, Mike V.

Thanks Cortland Dave. Interesting... Trying to get the full picture in my head. So, you would use one of these if the flange on the front of the pipe that attaches to rear of the cat was shot? And the split fange would clamp around the pipe just behind where the flange was? If I am on the right track so far, then how would the donut work to seal the joint if the flange on the front of the mating pipe is shot?Mike V.

I saw reference to such an item in a thread about repairing an exhaust system where the flange on the catalytic converter that mates with the donut gasket has rusted to the point of uselessness. Sorry, but I am not familiar with the "split repair flange". Is that a technical term?

What is a MAP sensor?

I tapped the port in the water pipe to 1/4 NPT and installed a 3/8" hose barb. Perfect.

I will have to see what the hardware store offers.

If I had a lathe, it would be easy enough to make a new nipple to then press into the water pipe. But I do not. So it would be a matter of trying to find a piece of pipe or tube that will fit, as Cortland Dave said above, with or without drilling the port in the aluminum water pipe. At this point I guess I will replace the whole pipe and maybe in my "spare time" I can repair this one so I'll have it when/if the other one goes. What is the consensus on the intake manifold (to cylinder head) gaskets. Must I get these from the dealer or can I just use whatever my local auto parts dealer will sell me?

I noticed coolant dripping from my 1992 Legacy (2.2, non turbo, manual trans) this weekend. Turns out the leak is where the small (about 8 mm id) hose that, I believe, delivers coolant to the throttle body attaches to the cast aluminum water pipe that runs over the top of the engine block. I had to remove the intake manifold and everything that is attached to it to access this pipe. I then removed it from the block. There is a port in the aluminum water pipe into which a short length of copper (brass?) tube was apparently pressed. The little hose then is installed onto the copper tube. The problem is that the little copper tube seems to have deteriorated and fallen right out of the aluminum pipe. What I am wondering is if I can repair this relatively easily or if I am better off just getting a whole replacement aluminum water pipe off a doner car. If my description makes sense to anyone, has anyone ever dealt with this? Is the little copper tube available from Subaru? Is it a press fit into the aluminum pipe? Any other comments? Thanks, Mike V.

The plug half came off of the sensor side of the oxygen sensor connector (don't ask me how...) and the wire colors are not the same on both sides. The chassis side wire colors match the wiring diagram: BW, YR, W. But the wires on the sensor itself are Red, Black and White. Since they are no longer in the plug I do not know which ones to match up. Help please! Thanks, Mike V.

I thought that having access to a press was helpful but that replacing these bearings (even if you have a press) is tricky and/or required special tooling. Otherwise guys like Johnceggleston would change their own.

Thanks for the links, Heartless. Unfortuneately, that gets me to the same .pdf version of the '92 manual I already have which is incomplete (at east in the electrical section). Thanks anyway!

OK, thanks. Link is attached below. What has happened in the mean time is that although I thought I had "fixed" the problem by cleaning the connector pins in plug F41, the connection of the BR power feed wire to the fuse box (F/B) must have remained dodgey. This car has only seen intermittant use since then and most of it was by my sons (!), but apparently not only the heater blower, but also the brake lights and the horn have been intermittantly failing to operate. I started driving the car again recently and noticed this and when I looked at the connector I was horrified (well, maybe that's too dramatic) to see that the BR wire, where it enters the connector plug, had its insulation melted and there were brown burn marks on the plastic plug itself in the area of the related pin. So I was just looking for a complete wiring dagram so I can reacquaint myself with the circuit. I think I have it all sussed out at this point though. Thanks! Mike V. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125909-92-legacy-heater-fan/?hl=%2Bheater+%2Bblower

Ha! No problem, Tax. Actually what I'm doing is finally getting around to properly fixing a problem that came up back in Winter 2012. There was a detailed thread on it. Is there a way for me to attach a link here to that thread so that anyopne interested does not have to search for it?

I am troubleshooting subject circuit, and actually the problem also effects the brake lights and the horn. Anyway, I have an electronic copy of the factory service manual but it seems to be missing the pages that include the portion of the wiring diagram that covers these items. So.......my questions are: Is a complete FSM freely available? If not, can anyone help me come up with the pages/diagrams that I need? General question/comment: I have not been active on this sight for about a year and it has changed. Seems it is harder to search for stuff, etc. It could very well be just my unfamiliarity with the new format, or maybe a reflection on my general ineptitude in things digital. Have older posts been delected?

Thanks for the comments guys. I really don't think this is a ploy by this particular outfit to sell more expensive tires than are "required". I think it is either a new statute or one that is becoming more strictly enforced. But hey, it could be a law that is rarely followed or enforced and this shop is justtaking dvantage of it just to make a little more money. Just to add to the silliness of this situation, I called the shop back and asked them to go ahead and get me two of the (Chineese) H-rated tires they had mentioned and to set up an appointment to have them mount them. This time the guy asked me for the details on the two tires I would be leaving on the car because he told me that he could not put the two new H-rated tires on unless the other two tures were H-rated!

GG - Random is right! This '92 is older than the ones that I have done in the past and in past the bolt always failed. On this one, I sprayed it with P B Blaster about 5 or 6 times over the course of about 8 hours. I had the torch out ready to heat the area but first I decided to put some some gentle torque on it just for the heck of it. I actually started out by applying torque in the TIGHTENING direction, and with just moderate torque it budged! It then unscrewed, no sweat. I think the on the ones I have done in the past the shank of the bolt had become one with the "clearance" hole through the knuckle. On those I tried PB Blaster, Kroil, heat, cooling, time, prayer, cursing and sweet talk all to no avail.

I just got off the phone with a local tire dealer. The company i a regional outfit that has been around for a quite a while. Anyway, I need to replace two tires on my 1992 two-wheel drive Legacy sedan. The guy tells me that this car requires H rated tires so he will not install, for example, Michelin Defenders since they do not have an H performance rating. Why would this car require tires with the H rating? Please don't respond Mr. 987687 if you can't be nice. Thanks, Mike V.

I have followed your described procedures in the past and still had the pinch bolts break, stupid.

Over the weekend I discovered that the ball joint on the left side of my '92 Legacy was shot. I mentally prepared for the "drill" but for the first time in my life the pinch bolt unscrewed without any drama whatsoever! Took a total of about 20 minutes to replace the ball joint. I just had to share this. Hey, I haven't been around here lately. Another face lift I see. Mike V.

OK, more troubleshooting last night.... Long story short, it appears that I have good clean 12 volts DC getting TO the fuse box inside the car (via the Brown wire), however that power is not getting to the 20 amp fuse (No. 12). So I tried, briefly, to pry the back of the fuse box off while it was still in the car dangling by the wire harnesses. No joy. So I unplugged all of the harnesses from the fuse box and removed it from the car. Once I had it out and on the bench I could see that there are eight "clips" holding the back cover of the fuse box in place plus what appears could be some plastic rivet like things that may be melted/welded during the manufacturing process. Bottom line being it does not look like the cover is meant to ever be removed. Now I am concerned that I may have done some damage to the circuits inside when I attmpted to pry it off. I did pry up one side of it maybe 1/8 inch. Comments? Anyway, I measured the resistance between the fuse holder contacts and the input and output pins and both sides indicated OPEN circuits. So, at this point I am hoping that I did not do any damage and that all other circuits in the fuse box are ok, but that the circuit associated with Fuse No. 12 is no good. In that case, I am thinking of just bypassing the fuse box and putting an in-line fuse in a jumper from the brown power feed wire over to the brake light switch. A complication is that Fuse No. 12 also appear to protect the horn circuit, although the 1992 Legacy FSM that is floating around the internet is missing a bunch of pages and the horn circuit seems to be one of them. So I don't know what is involved in that circuit - relay or whatever. Maybe not a concern as along as I know which wire leaving the fuse box is the one for the horn in which case I could just put another in-line fuse in another jumper from the brown power feed wire to the horn circuit wire. Make sense? I'd appreciate any and all comments on this! Thanks again, Mike V.

FTFM, The only fuse box drawing that I found in the FSM (besides the schmtics of course) is on page 14 of section 6-3 and it just shows a layout with 21 fuses. They are not numbered or anything so there is no knowing for sure which fuse is "No. 12" from that drawing. I'll check the owner's manual tonight. Thanks again.

Just curious as to why you went with the "lightened" crank pulley. Aren't these pulleys also harmonic balancers so wouldn't you be throwing the dynamic balance off? Also looks like the new pulley has a larger o.d. so you'll be driving all your accessories faster.