myles

I don't know if he lied (i.e. he could be misinformed), but I seriously doubt you could reap 10hp from plugs.

If I'm not mistaken, in the US, you'll find a Phase-II 2.5 in the 2000+ Legacy.

Is it modified? I thought the output (measured at the crank) of the 2.5 was 165hp. Anyone know how much they put to the road?

I use either the OEM or the Purolator P14460. I think they're identical save for the shape of the gasket (rounded cross section on the OEM versus rectangular on the Purolator). Note that the P14460 is of the "Premium Plus" line, not the "PureOne" line (I think the his part number is L14460).

Grab an oil filter off the shelf of your favo(u)rite auto parts store and see which wrench fits By the way, on the 2.5l there's enough room to use a strap-type wrench.

Why Tide? Does it remove the wax?

What's it for? Is it solely to reduce intake noise (as its name suggests)? BTW, I'm referring to the "jug" attached to the intake tract on my 2002 Legacy (US).

The engines and transmissions for the North American built cars are built in Japan.

How can you have window deflectors on a car with frameless windows? They would have to attach to the roof and not come down far enough to interfere with the opening/closing of the doors.

I think they're snake oil, personally.

For the driver's side, remove the battery and the washer reservoir. For the passenger's side, remove the intake duct work. It's not as bad as it looks. When you reinstall the plugs, tighten to 21 Newton-meters.

So the plugs were brand new in December. What do they look like now? Are they loaded with carbon? Oil?

What's the condition of the spark plugs? The air filter? The fuel filter? Is the "Check Engine" light illuminated?

It's "synchro", short for "synchronizer" , and most likely not the cause of your problem. Check the condition of the mounts (as another poster suggested). This is a do-it-yourself job, by the way. Rule out the simple, inexpensive fixes before you let anyone remove your transmission and inspect the internals (expensive).

Do you run premium fuel now?

I don't think this has _anything_ to do with your transmission.

Honda is the paragon of reliability and durability. Seriously. However, Honda's are completely devoid of character, seriously nose-heavy, and front-wheel drive (I know, the S2000's rear-drive). As far as your gaskets go, see if the part number on your invoice matches what the car was delivered with (you'll probably have to contact SOA for this). If they match up, you're probably due for another failure. If not, hopefully you're in possession of a redesigned gasket. Now for a bit of venting. How did either 2.5 (Phase I or Phase II) make it into production, with the leaking head gaskets, piston slap, etc.? Does the latest H-6 suffer from these problems?

I think it's in the rear (on the side opposite the muffler) on the Legacy.

How 'bout your turbo'ed Legacy? Manual or auto?

Disconnect the fuel pump relay. It's in the engine compartment, as far as I know. Run the engine 'til it quits, and then let the starter crank it for five seconds. (This is from the FSM for 2002 Legacy, by the way, so your mileage may vary).

That beetle must go like stink with the EJ22 in her. How's she handle?

Manual or automatic transmission? Are the _circumferences_ of all four tires w/in 0.25inch?

How'd the drivetrain hold up to this beast? Was it the stock 5-speed manual or the 4EAT?

A word of warning: Metal caskets aren't exactly cheap. They're cheaper than wooden ones, but still _not_ cheap.

The scoops are non-functional, no?