porcupine73

Hi sparkydave. Did that transmission require the Dexron III or is it the 5spd requiring the Idemnitsu fluid?

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com lists the oem part #. None of the 'trademotion' based sites I've seen show oem part #, though usually they will let you search by manuf part #.

Cool! btw, there is a TSB out about that first quirk delayed upshift to third when it's cold out.

I didn't see any accidents or 'frame inspections' or anything like that. Appears to be two owners, the first being the rental car company then the owner in Idaho. I saw it for sale on yahoo autos; looks like a sweet ride.

TSB is technical service bulletin. Generally they call for Dexron III or thereabouts. I'm running amsoil syn atf. Yes if you go with that '00obw you want to be sure the magical mystery Subaru coolant additive (rebadged holts radweld from the U.K.) has been added under recall. That way you get I think it's 8 years 100k miles warranty on the HG's if they get that external leak. Definitely check for torque bind and make sure the FWD fuse is not installed and all tire match etc. I initially had anti-torque bind in my '00obw; that is it didn't put much power the to the rear wheels. I think the transfer clutches were glazed. It was fixed after some long stop and go driving on sheer ice where I kept hitting the throttle enough to get the wheels to spin.

Looks like she was first a rental in Utah 'til about 12k miles then auctioned&reregistered in Hayden, Idaho in 2001...no more info after that.

Hm...how about fuel filter or knock sensor for the hestitation/no power problem? Any service lights on? Do you even get a clicking sound when trying to start? How about if you tap the starter with a hammer?

I have an '00obw and the trans has been great so far (owned it for about 20k miles now). There are a couple potential issues I know of. First, some owners have experienced issues with delayed engagement to drive. Like it takes a few seconds to shift into drive. So you might want to check that out before purchase. It's some internal pump seal that 'prevents the rapid buildup of pressure'. I think there's a TSB out about it. Second, though this isn't much of an issue, there is a TSB out about an rpm flare up on the first second to third upshift after a cold night. I have experienced this, but it's very minor and I think the TSB is just to let people know why it happens and that it's not 'malfunctioning'. (Some hydraulic circuit drains and takes a moment to refill).

Well since yours is busted up, if you're getting a hankering for off-roading, maybe you just want to replace it with a skid plate.

Thanks wtdash! I'll have to look into it. The main reason I ask is I see a sets of new KYB GR-2 struts on sale for the '92-'94 Legacys for $200 which seems like a good price. But if I can fit Outback or other higher struts I'd like to do that. The KYB catalog shows the same part no for pretty much all front strut mounts, but different nos in may cases for the rear strut mounts.

Something I read listed three keys for subaru's: the master, submaster, and valet. The master and submaster seemed to have the same function - everything, but the valet was just door and ignition or someting. Hm...that would probably explain why the '94 Legacy I just bought came with a key cut on a Nissan blank.

Hm wow that's quite a story! Good deal on the locks. I think what amsoil says is that if you use an oem or equivalent filter, that you must change the filter (only) at the oem specified intervals. Yes you would need top up oil to replace that lost from the filter change. But the oil itself is still good for the rated miles. Anyway if you think you're going to order amsoil regularly check out the preferred customer program that'll save you some $. And there's other great synthetic oils out there too included redline, neo, torco, mobil1, etc.

I've tried some various mixtures; my favorite is about 1:1:1 acetone, xylene, toluene. You'll hear thoughts both for and against. I'm not sure I've noticed much difference with any of this acetone, xylene, toluene mixes. edit: though these can be the good makings of a nice diy octane booster/cleaner. If you look at many non-chlorinated brake cleaners, they tend to have at least acetone xylene and toluene.

Say does anyone know off hand of any Outback or other higher than stock struts that would fit 1994 Subaru Legacy L Wagon? I couldn't tell off hand based on part numbers....thanks!

Hm..okay sorry about that so you are already measuring fuel added under similar conditions. Say I wonder, do you think this decrease in fuel mileage might be related to your burnt atf post?

Well if you're not measuring the actual gallons filled into the tank, then there are possibly other variables at play that could account for the apparant fuel economy issue. Sure the low fuel gauge might be perfectly accurate every time. But maybe it isn't.

When you say stinky do you mean significantly different from new ATF? Is it blackish? What brand/type fluid was put in? The most likely reason for stinky/back ATF fluid is overheating, says above 200 deg. F regularly. You could put in an ATF temp gauge if desired. Was the in-radiator cooler flushed too? If it's plugged with shrapnel maybe it's not circulating too well.

You can't rely on the low fuel light. You need to measure the gallons filled into the vehicle with the same grade at the same gas station at the same pump for at least several fills under reasonably the same driving conditions including ambient temp to get a good comparison for fuel mileage. For the fuel filter, if it's been on for more than a year or 10,000 miles and you're suspecting it, just replace it, it's only like $20 for an OEM. Vac gauge if you want one just get something such as a autometer from summit. You can tie it in just about anywhere in the manifold vacuum system, there's several places. If you want I can post a pic of where I tied in.

Mirrors-do these have an autoreset thermal circuit breaker somewhere in the system like power windows sometimes do? Rear defrost-not sure; I've heard it's bad, some say it's not bad. Keys-I would imagine the dealer would want to see the title or at least registration or some proof of ownership. I mean you wouldn't want someone to just be able to write down your VIN and then go get a key made for your vehicle. Amsoil-I'm running all amsoil lubricants. The 25k interval or 35k interval depends on what oil you're running. There are other factors too. Do you make a lot of short trips? You probably need a shorter drain interval because of water and fuel dilution. I do mainly 30+ mile trips, ran the amsoil hdd 5w-30 about 20,000 miles last time and the used oil analysis was good. I do use a bypass filter too though so that helps. There are a lot of other factors involved too of course. My favorite thing is not having to worry about changing the oil every month or two.

Hi tiredandwired and :welcome: ! IACV is idle air control valve. A pic of roughly where it is on my '96 is below. Vacuum leaks can also cause high idling. For cylinder misfire, what condition are the plug wires in and are the OEM? How about the spark plugs? Are they NGK or other Japanese type?

Where to get one...possibly salvage/scrap yard/WTB forum on here/eBay. That's probably the cheapest especially if they're local.

Oh sorry about that...totally missed the mention of renick motorsports in the original post. I searched before trying to find another source for these springs and kits, but didn't find anything in the U.S. I wonder who in australia renick is ordering them from....maybe directly from the manuf? Hm....you've got me worried now as to whether I'm going to get the ones I ordered or not!

Not sure how much this will help but I know I've seen at least one post like this somewhere for an '07....maybe on another board...com'n brain think...

OK thanks. Just trying to figure out for replacement starter what the most reliable yet cost effective way is to go. I had terrible luck with oem reman starters from Ford, but I would expect Subaru to be superior.

Just curious were these used, oem remans, autoparts store remans? Thanks.