porcupine73

OK finally got this exhaust leak fixed. Glad I bought new bolts since one of them snapped when I was trying to remove it. Also noted the heatshield on the rear cat was loose so I put on a big worm drive clamp. Here's some pics.

Yah I'd see if they'll give you one. Is it critical? Not really but it does have a uses/purposes. A common reason for it missing is someone took it off during some kind of service and forgot to put it back on. That could have even been during dealer checkout. Or this can be a great excuse to buy a skid plate!

I don't have an '06. I have an '00. But it does have the plastic underdoor. I thought that was pretty standard on Outbacks? My '96 Legacy has no underdoor but it's the brighton and if it had one it could have been removed before I bought it.

Hm...so does your '06 have the plastic 'underdoor' or is it missing?

afiak the head gasket issues were taken care of ~03+. Yah finding rust free anything 93-95 in Buffalo isn't easy. Could try buffalo.craigslist.org and search for Subaru. I picked up my latest from there, a '94 Legacy wagon from a guy from CT who was going to UB.

Hm...could be, let's see. 13028AA102 Legacy 1995-1998 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 NON-CALIF SPECS 13028AA150 Legacy 1995-1998 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 WITH CALIF SPECS In the part numbers, the only difference are the ninth and tenth digits. According to the Genuine Subaru Parts Numbering System, the A10 and A15 identify specific characteristics of parts with the same part description code and designated sequences from A00. The specific code is assigned by the Fuji Engineering Division for internal use only. The 10th digit is identifies an engineering change to the part. For example: 0 = original, 1 = 1st modification, 2 = 2nd modification, 3 = 3rd modification

As far as I can tell from the Subaru maint sched's, it was 1999. For '98, Subaru says 60k for the 2.2L it says replace @ 60k for federal spec (but 105k for 2.5L).

That would be cool if there were places like that...some additional ideas: how about schools/colleges/etc that might have lifts available...ok so just register for basket weaving 103 if you have to be a student. I have heard of people in or worked as civilians for the military who were able somehow to use their lifts...

The 60k vs 105k for california spec may have had to do with (so I've heard) California's law that no emissions related service can be required for the first 100,000 miles. Originally the 105k timing belts were probably kevlar aramid or something similar to give longer life. They do have different part numbers but prices are very close so if the calif belt would work on the non calif model, which it seems like it would, that might be the way to go.

Yep, or do you have any vacuum leaks or sucking/rushing sounds with the hood up?

Thanks nipper. I can't recall the details but I seem to remember seeing a post about something preventing 'the rapid build up of pressure' thus causing the delayed drive engagement. Didn't grossgary have this issue on ~ an '00?

Looks like it would work well on regular plug wires. I don't know how well it would work for Subaru wires since they aren't simply cylindrical rubber boots. They have that kind of mushroom like top on them.

I don't think this is the TSB you're looking for but I found it in "A/T - Phase 2 4EAT Transmission Characteristics". I've seen other posts about delays of like 5 seconds or more engaging into drive, I guess some leaky pump seal preventing rapid build up of pressure. Fortunately I haven't (yet) experienced it in my '00obw. 1. Delayed Engagement or Judder felt when shifting into Reverse or Drive. Symptom When the driver shifts the select lever into reverse or drive and applies the accelerator too quickly delayed movement or a judder can be felt. Mechanism It takes approximately 1.5 seconds to engage the internal clutch(s) after the select lever gear is chosen. If engine torque is increased before the clutch is fully engaged, the clutch will slip and make the judder feeling. Recommendation To determine there is an internal problem with the unit, perform a 'TIME LAG TEST'. If the average is less than 1.5 seconds the unit is operating normally. If it is more than 1.5 seconds then an internal problem exists and repair/replacement should be preformed. Explain to the customer the mechanism and function of the system and that it is not a defect in the unit. Also, recommend that the customer wait a second before applying the accelerator pedal.

28012AA014 Legacy 1990-1999 HOUSING, FRONT AXLE LEFT SIDE FOR ALL 1990-1999 LEGACYS Other models listed with the same part no 28012AA014 Forester 1998-2000 Impreza 1993-1999 Outback 1995-1999 Got the info here.

Yah I'd change the fluid too. Check the new dipstick for fit. The little o-ring thing seems to shrink or something with time. Many Subaru's I've seen have little or no friction to keep the stick seated. The '94 I bought the dipstick was there but was falling out.

Are you properly bedding in the pads on the new rotors? Sanding is not recommended, at least not by stoptech: "Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason."

Do you have any stored codes or CEL/MIL? Any good size vacuum leaks? If you clean the throttle body you want throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner. Some manufs don't want the butterfly cleaned if they have put some kind of special coating on it that could be damaged or rubbed off by cleaning. It also depends if you plan to remove the throttle body to clean it. Cleaning it in place pretty much means all the gunk and junk you clean off is going into the intake. If there are chunks that could get stuck between the valve and seat, etc.

Haynes is OK. The OEM manual is hard to beat though. You can get esentially the OEM material from alldatadiy.com. You can buy the manual CD's from techinfo.subaru.com but they're like $200. Many people do the 72 hr subscription and download the parts they want. Not sure what those connectors are for....something I saw said maybe they're for a subwoofer hookup?

Some people have had results with running a few stiff doses of techron to clean up the fuel level sender. You'd have to go on a dyno to determine horsepower. That'd be wheel horsepower (whp) which is always less than crank or brake horsepower. Here's a sort of funny thing I spotted in the service manual fuel tank section:

For specs, check out cars101.com The engine should be 2.2L Overhead cam 4 cylinder Boxer engine HP 130@5600 rpm, torque 137@4400rpm mutli-port fuel injection, 15.9 US gal fuel tank, 87 octane

If you want to reseal the oil pump, you'll have to remove the timing belt. Then you can slide of the crank sprocket and unbolt the oil pump. You'll need a new front crank seal as the oil pump slips over the crank. And a new oil pump discharge to block o-ring. The screws sometimes tended to back out of the rear case over the rotors, thus allowing oil to seep out and sometimes leak out or even push out the front crank seal. There is an article on endwrench about it. However, I would suspect the gauge or sender. If you are reading 90+psi then either the gauge is inaccurate or the oil pump internal pressure relief isn't working correctly since it opens at about 72psi. There was a recent post on here about gauges where nipper and others gave some good info about gauge accuracy and how they don't necessarily give accurate readings at the low or high end of the range.

'96 legacy brighton here, she has rear drums....(but not for long).

If your plug wires are not OEM or are more than a couple years old, the first thing I'd try for misfire is to replace them with new OEM wires. Maybe if plugs aren't relatively new put in new NGK plugs (not champion or autolite or anything like that).

Does it maybe exist only on turbo models?

The fans run only when needed for removing heat from the radiator and/or a/c condensor. The main fan may operate without the subfan operating. Check out this control chart involving engine coolant temp, vehicle speed, and a/c compressor on/off: