porcupine73

Hi wondercow2, I think that guy was hard up for cash. I was thinking about going to get them if you didn't, but the post was removed later that day. That was a fabulous price for those wheels, especially including Blizzaks in good shape.

Ok cool. Are you going with the greenstuff? Or I think they have a 'black' they call oem plus or something. Of the vendors they list, I've only ordered from SummitRacing.com. Summit has excellent service, and the stuff arrives the next day even with ground shipping. I'd imagine you'd get it overnight too since they have a warehouse in OH I think.

Article from EndWrench: Popping Out Of Fifth Gear Some 1999 and 2000 Legacy and Forester vehicles may intermittently pop out of fifth gear when coasting. The cause may be a loose main shaft nut. In some cases, all that maybe necessary to repair the transmission is to replace the nut, torque to specifications and stake the nut. In other cases, damage to the hub and syncro assembly may be found.

Hi rruss and welcome! Generally when there is doubt about brake pads, OEM pads are suggested. They seem to be pretty good for regular street use. Some common sources might be http://www.subarupartsforyou.com or http://www.subarugenuineparts.com Subarugenuineparts also has ebc pads if you looking for something for more heavy 'spirited' street use. Plus with OEM then you will get the proper shims and the little packs of red niglube for servicing the sliders, though there are other options for the niglube. 26296AE160 Legacy 2003-2004 OEM FRONT BRAKE PAD SET FOR 2003-2004 LEGACYS ALL with shims & clips, NOTE for cars produced upto 2 of 2004 Same part number is also listed for Outback 2003-2004, Baja 2003-2006, Outback 2005-2007. Rears: 26696AE020 Legacy 2003-2004 OEM BRAKE PAD SET REAR, Includes Shims & Hdwr, For Legacy 2003-2004 Same as for Baja 2003-2004, Outback 2003-2004, Legacy 2003-2004

There is a Subaru technical service bulletin out about it for the phase II 4eat. Found this in TT1202-001. 4. 2nd to 3rd shift flare after vehicle is parked. Symptom After a vehicle is parked and it sits typically overnight, when it is started and the transmission upshifts into 3rd gear for the first time, the RPMs may flare slightly. This can be an intermittent condition depending on how the vehicle is positioned when parked, temperature of the transmission when parked, and ambient temperature. Mechanism The shift flare occurs because the hydraulic circuit for high clutch in the transmission occasionally drains. When the transmission upshifts for the first time into 3rd gear, the hydraulic circuit must fill before it will apply the high clutch. The time needed to fill the circuit slightly delays the applying of the clutch causing the RPMs to rise slightly. The transmission will function normally for the rest of the driving cycle. Recommendation Explain to the customer how and why they are experiencing this symptom. Also, make sure they understand it is not causing any damage or excessive wear to their transmission or vehicle.

Here's the spring compressor I've been using. Got it for about $30 at Harbor Freight. It's pretty heavy though it is a little tricky to get the jaws over the springs. For the nut securing the strut to the mount, I've been using a spark plug socket that has a hex top for a wrench on it. Then I can fit a allen key down through the open top of the socket. I tried gearwrench but they were all 12pt sockets I think which I didn't want to use.

I wonder if your ATF was overfilled. Generally you'll get 4-5 quarts from the drain plug.

Total capacity is like 9.8 quarts but you get only about 4 qt out the drain plug. The rest sits in the torque converter. They may have said 5 because they don't want you to be short. I would add the limited slip additive only if you're having a problem with binding. Yes the fluid can be hard to read on the stick. I can get a reading only with the unit cold. Fire up engine, shift R D 2 1 then P. Then wait a minute. Then pull the dipstick, don't even try to read it the first two times just wipe it off. Then pull it again and get it in front of some light like the headlamp. Look at both sides of the stick. You're looking for where the fluid stops. Sometimes one side of the stick will have fluid all the way up but the other will show a level.

A j/y tranny could work. Make sure to get the rear diff from the same vehicle then too. Considering the cost and work in that, if fuel economy is the concern, how about other things (if they're not done already) such as tune up, fresh air filter, plugs&wires, maybe front o2 sensor, etc., low rolling resistance tires like on those hybrids, empty any excess cargo out of the vehilce, fuel efficent drivetrain lubes, etc.

The problem towing an AT without the engine running is that the ATF pump isn't turning. So the AT then has no lubrication or cooling. But the wheels turning spins parts in the trans. The binding afterward is because the clutch pack to transfer power to the rear wheels is not happy.

Here's some info from a 2001 endwrench article, not sure if it has been superceded: Per Subaru, "Automatic transmission all wheel drive (AWD) vehicles can not be towed with any wheels on the ground. The vehicle can only be towed on a trailer with all four wheels off the ground. Transmission in PARK." Manual trans vehicle you could do what you are proposing: "Manual transmission all wheel drive (AWD) vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground in neutral or with all four wheels off the ground on a trailer. Towing must never be attempted with only two wheels on the ground or two wheels on a dolly."

Yes the ECU/TCU use that signal to compensate pressures for high altitude use to reduce hard shifting. It's called map? Usually that means manifold absolute pressure used by the ECU in place of those sometimes finicky mafs.

Hi. I've never done it; I would guess it doable with the time and money. Probably would be easier to just swap out the rear diff than to try to switch out the gears. Not sure about the front diff; usually they just replaced with the trans as a unit but I'm not too familiar with the MT's. Can you maybe just run larger diameter tires?

Thanks for the notes.....did KYB say why they won't honor the warranty?

Ah...well. I guess I'll have to see what happens when/if I get them. I wonder why kyb says they won't honor the warranty? I have to admit the price was good, and I wanted a set of four, and the feedback looked good....so I struck. I have had excellent results with tirerack too, they have their game together. Didn't check these struts&shocks, but on my '96 they were out of stock for a while on the rears I think it was as was summitracing (excellent service also) so I looked elsewhere...

Indeed welcome! Sounds like quite a project you had there. Doesn't sound like too bad of a deal overall and maybe even some fun in the process! The limited slip add is something Subaru suggested at one point for AT AWD clutch pack bind. Say there's a beetle on pimp my ride right now!

Good point. I saw one bad that said 'beware fake product' but who knows what was up with that. I mean these do seem to be good prices, but I'm guessing this guy sells a lot of KYB's and by doing it in sets of four it is like a quantity discount over buying individually. Some other negs seemed to be didn't receive in expected amount of time or something. Anyway yes I will post back when I get them. I paid for them on 30-Apr-07. Ok hasn't even been a week yet...seems like a lot longer! But I have to receive the scorpion springs from renick too before I can put this all together. Since we're on the eBay topic....Last year I ordered four KYB's for my '96 from performancepeddler on eBay. I received one wrong strut, like one number off, which turned out to be for a Chrysler Sebring. I didn't realize I had a wrong one until like 4 months later when I went to use them. At first performancepeddler (call center in India) told me after 30 days no deal. Then they said they'd take it back but 20% restock charge or something. But when I sent it in they refunded me the full amount for that strut. Also I ordered a Subaru rally jacket from Israel, guy had lots of good feedback, but of course that sort of deal is suspect fake product. Anyway I haven't received anything yet and now it says the person is no longer a registered user. I've had good results though on a couple other items I never received with paypal giving me back the money.

Hi nipper, actually a few days ago I ordered a set from that seller for my '00obw. I didn't receive any kind of acknowledgement of payment or a tracking number or anything....but I figured with kind of positive recent feedback maybe that's how they keep costs down.

Yes hats off to Subaru. Many domestic manuf's AT's (and the rest of the vehilce!) were complete garbage during the early-mid (and late!) 90's (and current!) timeframe.

You might get a good used half shaft from a junkyard. Personally I would not use an aftermarket half shaft as I've seen too many posts about issues with failure and some weird vibration stopped in drive afterward. MWE axle rebuild might be an option. Aftermarket rebuilt halfshaft is probably cheapest though. There's been other posts of people going a good number of 10's of thousands of miles with the thing clicking and stuff but not failing...not saying it's the best option but if it passes inspection and you know it might fail...

The conventional lefty loosey righty tighty should work on this one.

You may have to patch/fix the exhaust leak to pass. Do they like sniff the exhaust while running or do a dyno test or something? Otherwise most states have a DMV web site listing exactly what is 'required' to be checked during inspection. If it's an exhaust sniff test, I've heard running several bottles of 'isoheet' or similar isopropyl may help. Also get the car good and warmed up before going for the test, and leave it running in the parking lot while waiting.

Hello! Buffalo here. Service procedure first asks there are any other codes in addition to P0400. Then it says check for any leakage or clogging of vacuum hoses. The most pertinent parts seem to be 'possibly egr valve malfuction may be due to freezing or clogging by foreign matter'. 'Is there any clogging in the gas outlets of intake or cylinder head, checking by breathing into the outlets?' 'do not use solvent when cleaning the egr valve assembly, as it can cause diapragm damage' 'replace egr valve as required' There's some other more esoteric stuff about using the Select Monitor and some 'driving cycle'.

I'm sure you probably can get the rears separately, but I don't know if renick will sell them that way. You could probably order from australia maybe....might be able to find a dealer from http://www.kingsprings.com Do you have outback springs and struts in the rear too? Or there was a post recently about those rubber strut spacer things for like $10 each that might work...

Yes a pressure and volume test could be good too. I hear air bubbles sometimes after changing the fuel filter. I cycle the key from acc to run a dozen times or so waiting a few seconds in run to cycle the pump. I think as the fuel filter's air gets replaced with fuel, the air bubbles back into the fuel tank? Usually it's not too much but it sounds bubbly to me.