porcupine73

Wow that isn't fun. Obviously they didn't read http://tadd.weather.gov/tadd-intro.shtml

Uh oh...changed radiator hoses and heater hoses today. This is a '00obw 2.5L AT 108k miles. It wasn't wet, but rather some sort of salt encrusted mass. I haven't been noticing any coolant loss....guess I better keep checking. I'm using Zerex G-05 and the subaru coolant conditioner.

Problem fixed. I probably should have gotten a bigger rear sway bar while I was in there.... 1. Ordered correct endlinks (Whiteline KLC044 swivel): 2. Installed correct endlinks: The fronts went in without issue.

Cool the flush worked. Yes, front and rear diff gear oils, power steering fluid (uses same ATF as the transmission), brake fluid, coolant, engine oil.

Hi. Here's some info from this EndWrench article: 4EAT Phase 1 Diagnosis and Service 1995-98 Legacy, 1996-98 Impreza, 1996-97 SVX, 1998 Forester, Diagnostics (OBD -II Vehicles) The AT Oil Temperature light operates under the following conditions: Ignition switch ON/engine OFF is the bulb check mode, the light remains ON. Normal: Ignition switch ON/ Engine ON, light remains on for two seconds from engine start. Note: A failure is never reported via the AT oil temp light during current operation. The TCU waits until the next ignition cycle to display the following AT oil temp light condition. Therefore the driver may detect an abnormal driveability condition (fail safe operation) with no AT oil temp light indicating a failure. Abnormal - With the ignition switch ON and the engine running, the light remains ON for 2 seconds from engine start. OFF for 0.25 seconds, ON for 0.25 seconds 4 times, then OFF for 2 seconds. Cycle repeats 4 times for a total of 16 Blinks. Abnormal - ATF Temperature is too high The AT temp light comes ON and stays ON until the ATF temperature returns to normal. Trouble Codes Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column.Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU. They are displayed in the same format as old fuel system trouble codes, long Flash = 10, short flash = 1. For example: 2 long and 4 short = code 24, Duty Solenoid C. The clear memory procedure is simple and quick, just remove fuse No. 14 for at least one minute. OBD-II Operation Overview The system monitors components and their operation, conducting continuity and performance checks. The check engine light or MIL illuminates when a code is set into ECU memory. Problems with the 4EAT are communicated from the TCU to the ECU. There are 2 trouble codes that are generated as soon as a problem occurs, turning on the MIL.With 22 others requiring a fault or error during two consecutive trips, before turning on the MIL. A trip is defined as a driving pattern in which test parameters are reached for a given time.A failed trip will be erased if the next trip is a good one. Transmission codes generated in OBD-II have freeze frame information available on the Select Monitor in the fuel system section of data display.

Thanks Jamal. Yes these endlinks will not at all work on the '00obw. I ordered the wrong endlinks. It is maybe possible that with a little 'trimming' they would work but I don't want to do that. They can't be installed the other way because there is some suspension piece in the way. It's like a tubular piece, not a rod like in your pic. Your pic does match the Whiteline pic for this installation though. Ordered the correct endlinks from RenickMotorsports.com today via overnight so hopefullly I get them for the long weekend! Front endlinks installed great.

Here's what happens when you attempt to install the wrong Whiteline rear endlinks (KLC026) on an '00obw. It sort of looks OK when the vehicle is jacked up. But when lowered, the axle shafts rub on the end link, as shown in the pic below. You can hear it rub the half shaft when moving the vehicle. Whoops. I'm not sure how I ordered these wrong end links and/or why I thought they would fit this '00obw when they looked completely different than stock and the Whiteline installation pic didn't look at like what I had. Hopefully I will get the correct KLC044 tomorrow. I believe I can use these endlinks though on my '96 Legacy. Fortunately I resisted the desire to 'trim' these end links.

Does it do it at idle when steering to that one side?

How did you determine that the speedo is off?

It's a panel that fits over the door.

Maybe grossgary would know, he has done the recharging. Should be R134a, I mean that stuff is used even in those computer canned air dusters.

Just a wild guess, but did the front sway bar fracture? I got weird noises like this on my '00obw when it busted, but there were a number of people who had that issue on the '00obw's, and it sounded like a shotgun blast when it broke.

Sure just looking....I told myself that and before I knew it I had three. Forester has the phase II 2.5L unless someone put a 2.2L or other engine in for some reason. All 2.5L's are interference, sohc and dohc. Phase II has the possible external peeping of coolant so make sure to use the coolant conditioner. Who just had that nice writeup about how to change the coolant each year and use two bottles of the conditioner to prevent the leaks (subaru master technician I think it said?) It's probably an sohc, but you can tell by looking at the timing belt covers. The dohc covers are kind of bulging top and bottom to fit the cam sprockets. The pics below are of a dohc (from the EndWrench dual cam timing belt article) What trim level does it have? Cars101.com: 2000 Forester: Engine - Phase II 2.5 liter 4 cylinder, 16 valve Single Overhead Cam Boxer engine, Horsepower: 165 hp, 166 foot pounds of torque at 4000 rpm Forester L model - 4 channel ABS. Vented front disc with dual caliper piston and rear drum. Forester S model - 4 channel ABS. Vented front disc with dual caliper piston and rear disc L: 15" steel wheel / Tires 205 / 70R 15 Raised white letter - S: 16" alloy wheel / Tires - 215 / 60R 16" Raised White Letter S forester adds over L model: 16" alloy wheels (L has 15" steel) Rear disc brakes (L has rear drums) Velour cloth interior (L has a harder finish) Slate lower accent (L is unpainted charcoal finish) Radio antenna inside left rear cargo area glass (L has mast ant on right fron bumper) All Weather Package: larger outside defrosting mirrors, heated front seats, windshield wiper de-icer, limited slip rear differential Limited slip new for 2000. (not available on L

Cool. Yah you might have to run 3-4 tanks of a particular brand/grade to notice any difference (if there is any difference) since the fuel is blending with what remains in the tank. Plus the ECU may need some trips to adjust.

Yah you should be fine using regular if that's what you want. The knock sensor should take care of you. Don't use 86 though, the manual says it doesn't want that. However if you want to run that baby for all it's worth, you need the premium. The thing the person may have 'messed up' by using regular fuel is coking up the combustion chambers, etc. though that can be cleaned. However if the knock sensor isn't detecting the knock correctly (thereby retarding the timing), engine damage could occur on the lower octane fuel if premium is called for.

I think they're saying to look for erosion at the spark plug's connection to the spark plug wire. Also I've heard of it happening between the coil connection to the spark plug wire on two cylinders (depends on which way the electrons flow I guess in this waste spark system).

Could be a couple things, but here's one from EndWrench: Legacy Idle Quality Complaints If you encounter a complaint of idle quality, especially during warm-up, check to see whether there is corrosion between the spark plug terminal tips and the spark plug wire’s contact.

You can also use those fast cam bolts by Ingalls and others; I think it's the 14mm size. Those will also work if the stock cam bolt can't be adjusted far enough b/c of the lift, but everyone I've talked to says stock is adequate for this lift. You probably got a little more than 2" lift since you went to OB struts on a Legacy too along with the lift springs.

d00d you need to get an alignment. Camber will be off from the lift. You probably have positive camber now and that makes the car feel twitchy. Cool though I'm working on my scorpion lift on my '00obw right now too.

ahhhh ok I guess that would cause that problem! I had wondered what would happen if one of those bolts came out, now I guess I know! Does anyone drill those and safety wire them?

DRL's are generally the high beams run at reduced intensity; not sure if that's how Subaru does it. The aftermarket units usually drive the lamps with a square wave of some duty cycle since that's more efficient than using a resistor or other linear method. Anyway, the aftermarket kit may have said it won't work with Subaru's because I think the left head lamp and right head lamp are on separate circuits with separate relays. If so you'd need two DRL kits. Can you maybe put on a pair of driving lights and have those come on with the ignition? Or does it have to be the headlights? Or maybe the fog lamps?

Here's an article from EndWrench: Usually low-octane fuel causes pinging, not some problem with the engine or ignition system. While few motorists believe they’ve done something themselves that causes the pinging, if you suggest it, most will switch gasoline brands and grades as an inexpensive diagnostic test. If, as is likely, the pinging goes away with the low-octane fuel, everybody wins. The reason for the change of fuel brands is different fuel manufacturers blend their fuels differently. Sometimes, a blend of lesser octane may go to a dealer. The pump at the station may be labeled 87 octane, but in fact, the gas being pumped may be less than that. Subaru vehicles are designed to operate on 87 octane or better. If your customer has put premium in the vehicle in an attempt to cure the ping, tell him or her to go back to a regular grade gasoline when switching brands. SVX and Legacy Turbo models must have premium gas to operate properly. It should also be pointed out that one tank of fuel may not make the problem go away since the new gas will mix with the old gas and will be ‘diluted.’ It may take several tanks of this other gasoline before the customer notices a change. So explain that this is not going to be an overnight cure. Also, suggest that the motorist stay away from non-major brands since the quality of the fuel may be questionable.

Yah the calipers are usually pretty good. I have had one on the '94 that was seized and had a little corosion inside, but it was easy to clean up and just used a reseal kit. It helps to have access to compressed air to get the piston out but there are alternatives. Most vehicles I've seen with replaced brake lines have exactly what grossgary said: the existing lines were just cutoff in place and the new lines were just run under the body or wherever convenient. Not sure about your bucking problem; maybe you can get the codes read again if possible and make sure no additional codes have showed up in addition to the cat code.

Hi, not familiar with the '99 forester suspension. Is this the single bolt that goes through the strut/shock? If it has what I think is called double wishbone?

There may be another possibility. I'm guessing the ECU is determining the thermostat is stuck open based on the reading from the engine coolant temp sensor (ECTS). So if the ECTS is giving a low reading I'm guessing it could cause this code, though the service manual did not say anything about it. If you have or could borrow a scangauge or something similar you could read what the vehicle thinks the engine coolant temp is; if it is staying below 180 deg F that would indicate an issue. The temp gauge might not really show much in this case. The temp gauges are kind of weird. It seems from like maybe 150-190 deg. F the needle doesn't really move a whole lot. I've heard that's so customers don't think something is wrong because the needle moves around. I don't think it's too much of an issue to drive like this for a while. There are a few risks, like if for any reason the engine is running rich because of this condition it could cause cat issues. Also you may want to do an oil change because the engine oil may not be getting up to temp then either thus letting condesnation and fuel build up in the oil.