porcupine73

Part of it could depend on it the weight sensing seats are just a switch....like it closes above a certain weight. Then you could probably just make the circuti think the weight is there all the time. If the thing has some kind of output, resistance or whatever, proportional to the weight, that could be more tricky....

Hi. '00obw, auto trans, 119k miles: twice in the past few weeks I have had a no crank situation. Like hit the key to start and nothing, can hear the relay click in the dash. Have had this car for two years and it's never done this. The first time last week I was messing around hitting the starter with hard object, was ready to try jumping the starter solenoid with a lead when I remebered seeing on here about the 'neutral safety switch'. I was getting nervous about anyone seeing me in a Subaru with the hood up, so I moved the shifter just a little and poof she fired right up. phew. Get that hood back down. Then today when leaving work it did it again: no crank. I just touched the shifter and then it cranked. Should I choke it up and replace this neutral safety switch? Is this thing like on the AT itself, or is it under the shifter somewhere? Didn't see much info in the manuel but maybe I'm not lookin the right spot. Or does it just need adjustment? I confess I did not search first.... edit: also today when it wouldn't crank I noticed a faint smell of chicken, but it's probably not related....

Yah I kind of doubt the immobilizer system can be disabled...that would kind of defeat the purpose. I would not buy that warranty. But it depends on what you want. That vehicle will probably be pretty solid. If you want it like 'insurance' then maybe OK. A lot of insurance companies offer comparable plans for less cash. You definitely want to ask what the warranty does NOT cover. Like some plans will, if say the oil drains from the engine, cover the cost of the oil, but not the cost of repairs to the engine.

A quick cheap thing to try is to rack the lever from low-hi-flash fast a few dozen times. May not fix it but it is cheap and easy to try?

This may be a case of if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Yes it may eventually develop the HG issue. But maybe it won't. If you have a backup vehicle available and can tolerate downtime, then I'd wait. If you can't tolerate any downtime, like you'll get fired, then maybe you want to replace now. And hey something else could blow up before the HG's go, who knows. There's this d00d on toronto-subaru-club that swears by cometic HG's over OEM HG's....???

Hm....say if you plug off the driver side hose to the nozzle, then run the sprayers, what happens? Not sure...maybe washer pump has a low output? Maybe you can try switching the hoses at the reservour for the front and rear pumps, then run the rear pump, just to see what happens.

Sounds like the solenoid was funky. For '00obw AT, it says torque is 37 ±2.9 ft.lb(f)

I can't find it off hand but I know I saw in the 4EAT literature (can't remember if phase I or phase II) that there is a reverse inhibit valve in the valve body. It prevents reverse above something like greater than 8mph so there should be no damage done. When you say the vehicle shut off, do you mean it stalled?

Hi. Before replacing the plugs I would check the other items listed. If the plugs look in good shape and coil pack checks I would put that money into an OEM wire set before plugs. The NGK iridiums you bought should last quite a while unless they got fouled or cracked for some reason. In order of increasing price: The V-Power BKR6E-11 is an OEM part in this application. 1996 SUBARU IMPREZA L 2.2 H4 EJ22E FI Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo Standard BKR6ES-11 5553 .044 V-Power BKR6E-11 # 2756 .044 G-Power BKR6EGP 7092 .044 Laser Platinum PFR6B-11 * 4014 .044 OE Laser Iridium IFR6E11 ^ 6741 .044 Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 3764 .044 edit: Oh for manuals you can sometimes find used ones cheap on eBay. New OEM is about $21 online. my.subaru.com will let you download the owner manual free after you register, but I don't know if they have the '96 manuals on there....

Just use a heat gun, they're like $10 at harbor freight. (Or use the wife's or gf's hair dryer, but don't do it when they're home and don't get any grease on it). 91039AC090 MIRROR GLASS ONLY, LEFT SIDE FOR 1995 LEGACY (non heated) MSRP $31

I think Calif. emissions requirements say something about emissions related components can't require maintenance for at least 100,000 miles. Hence the timing belt interval of 105k miles. Heat is a big enemy of timing belts too.

Subaru's can be finicky with the plug wires. They often want their own OEM wires. Also look at the coil pack connections where they connect to the plug wires. Silicone dielectric grease is what to put in the boots. It insulates and helps prevent moisture from getting in the connection and can prevent corona discharge. The flashing CEL means it's something that could cause engine damage in a short period and should be given immediate attention. Also, right after the fuel filter is changed, you can get misfire codes.

Good info. Wow those are nice fiberglass results.

That would be cool to see. I know he said the tractor pulls 10g's when he pulls the parachute and leaves bruises on his chest where the harness is. Not sure what it pulls when he goes full throttle?

Yes nipper has a clean install. They do really look nice. Plus they're actual Subaru gauges which is nice too. I thought about trying to use that area but these gauges wouldn't fit. I think wireloom looks attractive....ok well maybe not... I don't think i'll use the digital gauges again. I have autometer analogs in the '96. They are much easier to read with a quick glance and knowing where the needle position generally should be. The digital gauges you have to actually read the value and think about it. Plus these cyberdyne's I don't think are extremely accurate.

Hm...cool idea nipper. I wasn't sure how much room there was back there...I probably should've looked before doing it this way...I liked your jdm gauge pics. lol yah it did turn out to be a little bit over the top. It looks weird at night before starting because all the gauges flash when the reading is 'low'. I have to figure out which is the signal wire for the a/f meter...there's 5 wires on the front o2 sensor. Whatever wire I tried isn't working.

Cool thanks nipper. I hadn't seen many posts about them. I guess I'll see how it reads tomorrow. I see the list on the oem fpr is nearly $100... Maybe the seafoam will free it up a little or something.

Sounds like it's worth it if it isn't like 1000 miles away. Sounds like it could just be cleaned up and maybe some basic service. Should be worth some cash if it's driveable depending on mileage. Or partable at a profit.

Also look for any kinked/bent tubing going to that nozzle. Shake/jiggle/move/etc the hose from under the hood to see if that helps. If you put the hood up, you may be able to push the nozzle out the hood size with your finger or something else. Mine have popped out on their own before.

Well I went out and clamped off the fuel line after the filter. I went key acc to run for just a second and the pressure went to 61psig, so it appears the fuel pump isn't the problem. I pulled the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and put some seafoam down in there. After that the peak reading I can now get is 41psig fuel pressure vs 37psig before. I'll see tomorrow if is any higher after the seafoam soaks in the regulator overnight....

Hi. At idle I am reading about 32 psig fuel pressure. The manual says it should be between 30-34 psig, so this reading seems OK. At full throttle (nearly zero vacuum), I am reading maybe 37psig. This is the highest I've seen it get. The manual says it should be between 41-46psig. Do Subaru fuel pressure regulators go faulty very often? Or maybe my gauge isn't very accurate (cyberdyne digital; not sure how accurate it is). I don't think my filters are causing any issue. If I run the key from acc to run a bunch of times without starting (zero vacuum), the highest pressure I read is 37psig. Should the fuel pressure bleed down from sitting? Before I cycle the key, the pressure is very low.

Hmm...a couple easy things to check would be do the fans spin freely by hand? Also could pull the connector and try powering the fan right off the battery with a fused jumper wire and an ammeter in series. Many multimeters can read only up to 10 amps; not sure if the fans take more than that....

Yes those are nice pics! If you don't want to race heads up, maybe you could negotiate for a few car lengths, then say you thought they meant jet lengths. There's been a couple races like this on TLC. One was that black jet engined powered car that set the speed record on the salt flats. It went up against a dodge viper. The jet car actually beat the viper off the line for the first 1/2 second maybe, then the viper flew by it. It was pretty funny. Like a minute later (I don't remember how long) you just see the jet car fly by the viper like it's standing still. Another was that semi tractor that guy put like 3 jet engines on that he runs at various shows and events. He raced it against some kind of military jet I think. The jet came over top of him real slow, then went full power and he went full power. I can't remember who won....

OK that's a lot of great suggestions and ideas. Until I figure out how I am going to cover, I just put a piece of black cloth over the wiring. It's kind of hard to see in the pic because of the glare. Also got the other gauges installed on the pillar. The camera doesn't catch all the gauge digits; I guess the gauges scan/strobe the leds.

Since the H6 uses the serpentine type accessory drive belt with automatic tensioner, I'm guessing you might need all the H6 accessories too, PS pump, alternator, a/c compressor, etc.