porcupine73

That should be a good daily driver. I"m assuming that's AWD? Other than regular maintenance such as change all fluids and filters, etc that should be solid. Never worked on the EJ18, does that have two 'cam belts'? Rears struts I wouldn't imagine to be more of a pain than any other Subaru. Provided you have the right tools, spring compressor, flare nut wrenches (or chop out section of strut captivating brake line), etc. Unless maybe it has that air suspension deal.

Post in the 'for sale' section on here, or maybe on craigslist. With the 2.2L it will be an easier sell. People will want to know if you remember if it had torque bind, like binding/hopping/skipping in turns. If you want to donate it there are probably places local to you. You could call Mission Motors here in Buffalo, NY (they fix up cars and resell them and the proceeds benefit the local homeless mission) but I'm not sure they'd pick it up b/c of the distance. They would give a tax deductable receipt if you want. Though the IRS rules changed on that now based on what they do with the car.

Subaru has some break in procedure for new engines like do not exceed 4000 rpm or something. Some people like to dump a bottle of torco assembly lube in there. I'd pull the all the plugs and put a couple shots of LC20 or motor oil in there. A neat, but possibly harder, step would be pull the oil pressure switch and somehow inject/pump oil in there to get it circulating before starting since it has sat so long. The thread is 1/8" bspt (british standard pipe tapered thread). Then turn the crank by hand for a few revs to lube it up in there real nice.

I think crank speed is about 300rpm. Is this ignition system schematic from the manual helpful? Also some other stuff from the service manual....not sure if it is helpful: CHECK COIL "+" TERMINAL VOLTAGE With ignition "ON," measure voltage between coil "+" terminal (E10)2 and ground. It should read 10V minimum . CHECK COIL RESISTANCE Ignition Coil Testing Disconnect coil connector and remove coil from engine. Measure resistance of coil primary and secondary windings as follows: PRIMARY Connector & terminal: Resistance: (E10)2 - (E10)1 0.7 Ohm (E10)2 - (E10)3 0.7 Ohm SECONDARY Terminal: Resistance: #1 - #2 13.8K Ohms (Hitachi), 21K Ohms (Diamond) #3 - #4 13.8K Ohms (Hitachi), 21K Ohms (Diamond) CHECK IGNITOR INPUT SIGNAL Igniter Testing While cranking engine, check that voltage varies synchronously with engine revolutions at ignitor connector terminals (B8)1 and (B8)2. CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECU AND IGNITOR Disconnect ECU and ignitor connectors. Check resistance between ECU and ignitor connectors and ground as follows: Connector & terminal: Resistance: (F47)9 - (B8)2 0 Ohms (F47)10 - (B8)1 0 Ohms (F47)15 - (B8)3 0 Ohms (B8)3 - Ground 0 Ohms (B8)1 - Ground 1M Ohms min. (B8)2 - Ground 1M Ohms min.

For your torn cv boot: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/

Also does your camshaft position sensor signal look like this? You said the timing belt was replaced - AFIAK if it is even two teeth off the vehicle will not start; not sure if it would still spark all signals if it is two or more teeth off though...ECU does know a tolerance for agreement of camshaft and crankshaft positions.

Sorry I wasn't sure, did you check the outputs from the ECU to the ignitor without it being connected to the ignitor? Like if there is a short in there or something it might be presenting too much load to the ECU. Not sure, are the outputs from the ECU just like open collector outputs or does it give +5V or something? Does your crankshaft position signal look like this? They don't say what the amplitude should be though...

You mean like maybe it got scorched?

Yes like just after overnight, I start it up, let it idle for about a minute, then shift through all gears, back to park on level surface leave engine running, then pull dipstick, don't even look at it the first time just wipe it off, reinsert, then withdraw and look at both sides. Sometimes a couple insertions and withdrawals will make it easier to read. I know Subaru wants it checked with fluid at like 172 deg F or something but I cannot get a reliable reading that way so I settle for checking 'cold'.

Is the fluid level correct? Is it bled out properly so there's no air in the system? Is the belt in good shape and properly tensioned? Are the hoses kinked or bent or damaged or anything? It's kind of hard to kink them but since the engine was out... The service manual has some other tests you can do on the pump. If it is the pump, a new oem pump is not cheap, like $300. Overtightening the belt did mine in. According to the service manual, the pump internals are servicable, but I don't know how readily available the individual parts are. Maybe Subaru offers rebuilt pumps.

Did you say you checked the coil pack? What do you get if the ignitor is unhooked from the coil pack?

http://www.ccrengines.com/

Yes, I find it easier on the Subaru's to check the ATF cold. Once it's warmed up I can't seem to get a good reading. When cold, it is pretty easy to see the line.

They're probably not the same sensor. Even AT or MT has different part # sometimes.

Do you know anyone with a borescope that you could peek down through the plug hole?

I was just looking at a drawing for my '94 and there were several o-ring sizes in the system, including 6mm, 8mm, 12mm, and 16mm

L: DTC P0135: FRONT OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (FO2H) Two consecutive trips with fault Are there any additional codes present? If not a new sensor should fix it, provided it's not a wiring issue. The troubleshooting procedure has you check a bunch or connections and resistances and stuff which ultimately ends in replacing the sensor. The bank 1 sensor 1 stuff is the generic ODBII description. Some vehicles have two (or more?) front o2 and sometimes two (or more?) rear o2 sensors, hence the bank/sensor# stuff in the generic descriptions. Yes, rear o2 sensor has it's own codes.

Hi davcoz and welcome! Did you check any other cylinders and get compression? (Like is the gauge working properly, engine warm, throttle blocked wide open?)

I believe those o-rings are hnbr. I got an assortment from harbor freight, but they are sae sizes. I'm guessing the subaru sizes would be metric. Though my friend's '91 dodge colt has metric bolts and i found exact or very close a/c o-ring matches in the harbor freight kit. EPDM is not rated for refrigerants. Neoprene is rated 'good', PTFE and FEP 'excellent'. Not sure if this link will work, but if you go to http://www.mcmaster.com, then search for o-ring, then click 'about o-ring materials' it will show you lots of info. Though I'm not sure why they don't list hnbr since that's very common for a/c.

I'd keep 'er. Esp considering the timing belt and all that stuff should be good for a while. At least keep as a beater/backup vehicle. It is very convenient to have a beater/backup vehicle. Those years are known for knock sensor issues, so it's not surprising you had to replace it. If the a/c compressor is going out, you could get one from a salvage yard, pop it in, then get it evacuated and recharged, or do it yourself. Tires are a maintenance item; I mean all cars need those eventually.

Sounds good! Yes change the ATF a few more times over the course of the next thousand miles. You only get about half the fluid via the drain plug. Try to stick with the same brand&type each time. When you do the coolant, at the least avoid any OAT types (gm dexcool and certain all makes/all models coolants). And treat yourself to a new thermostat. I'm sure a walk through the nearest best buy or similar place would have a selection of decent stereos under $200.

I got a clam type compressor from harbor freight. It works well, but I don't use it anymore because it's too bulky, hard to get on the springs, and it's arms are sometimes in the way for the top hats. So I got that kind with the two threaded rods with the hooks/arms from Lisle. I recently put some lift springs on my Outback and it did throw the camber off. I didn't replace any ball joints or anything at that time. Getting the alignment is the ideal thing to do I guess. At least for the interim, I just set it for zero camber by using a 12" long level against the wheel. It took a few iterations to zero out both sides. Subaru seems to give a fairly liberal camber tolerance though anyway.

Sounds good. Have you replaced struts before? I see those are from jdmwerks13. That's where I got mine. I didn't receive any confirmation, tracking number, or anything (which made me nervous), but I did get the struts in good shape in a few days.

Outback struts will work, but you might want to double check that eBay link. It says they are Legacy struts - not Outback. I haven't dealt with that vendor, but did get good results with seller jdmwerks on a set of 4 GR-2's. Bought from seller performancepeddler but they sent me one wrong strut though they were good about taking it back.

Application: Differential oil drain plug, bearing cap #5 (Impreza only), oil pressure switch, etc. Recommendation: THREEBOND 1105 (also referred to as FUJI BOND “C”) SOA part number #004403010 Equivalents: 3M T-3 Silicone (black) #08670 Threebond products are very common and obtainable in japan. Not so much in the U.S., though many ATV dealers will have it. I've used pipe dope before too and it works fine. It needs a sealant because it is a tapered thread and there is a leak path between the crests and roots. I don't know why they use this style plug, but it is a fairly common style on the rear diffs of many automakers. New tranny not shifting well: get that ford oil out of there and put in some redline NS or something that is going to be a little smoother. Also, it is possible the ford dealer doesn't know a lot about subaru's and how to make sure everything is lined up for the shifter, bushings, etc.