porcupine73

OK it just did it again today when leaving work; hasn't done it for nearly two weeks. Turn key to start and just the click under the dash, no crank. So rather than touch the shifter, I turned the key to start once again, nothing. Then turned the key again and it started. So maybe it is the contacts then. I'll have to pull it out this weekend and see what it looks like in there. But that first time it did it a couple weeks ago I hit the key probably a dozen times and nothing. Then when I touched the shifter it started. Though actually I think I had just banged on the starter with an umbrella first so maybe it made the contacts contact. (This is when I realized a few items missing in my car emergency toolset). Maybe I should put an indicator light off the starter solenoid so I know if the solenoid is getting it's signal power.

Should be good. Yes if AT check for FWD fuse and torque bind of course (and verify it is an AWD, not just FWD). Also if AT verify that the external ATF filter was installed, or install one yourself. Also once in a while these need some sort of check valve put in the cooler circuit line to the torque converter from draining it's ATF back into the pan.

Good info nipper. I saw in this article: http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/07171/795376-97.stm There's an early arrival for 2008 at your Subaru dealers -- the all-new Tribeca...The new engine, a 3.6-liter "Boxer" six cylinder, puts out 256 horsepower, a big increase from the former 245. Subaru also gave the engine more torque punch at the low end range where you really feel it when you are launching from a standing start.

I watched a short video clip at motortrend. They seemed to like it. They said it feels to have good power for cruising and getting around town. http://www.motortrend.com/av/reviews/112_0706_2007_subaru_b9_tribeca_overview

Yah I don't know. I think that's just how the 4eat phase II is controlled. I notice that in '00obw too. Sometimes even when you do punch it and it feels like it should downshift to second it doesn't. It just sits there and slowly winds up. Meanwhile you're stuck waiting for the thing to get up a little further into the powerband, 'cause it don't make much power below 3000rpm. The 4eat phase I's will downshift in a heartbeat. They might have done it to improve mileage, I think it does say for the Phase II it likes to hold a higher gear. Supposedly the phase II does still have the 'power' mode and it does consider the rate of change on the throttle, like slowly pressing down vs punching it.

Here's some band info. It doesn't say how to make the actual adjustment, but does guide in getting so that it can be adjusted. 4EAT FWD and AWD Brake Band Adjustment 4EATFWD.pdf

A really simple thing to check would be the radiator cap. It needs to be in good shape and clean. Clean under those little rubber parts in the cap seal and the relief valve. And the mating portion to the radiator neck needs to be smooth too.

You can use a GL-5 gear oil that says it is OK for LS diffs in the differential. It doesn't need the LS additive but it doesn't matter if it has it. It is not suggested to use Mobil1 gear oil in the Subaru MT. There were issues in the past with it's high sulfur (a great antiwear) eating up various parts.

Also, Fuel Switching may be of help

For motor brushes, check out http://www.mcmaster.com Then enter search term 'motor brushes'. They have many different sizes and types. Of course you'll need to pull your brushes to see what size they are.

You don't need limited slip additive for that LS diff. It is a silcone oil viscous type that the gear oil doesn't actually get to the limited slip part. Maybe someone else knows what exact type redline gl-5 gear oil works good in the Subaru MT's. I think it might be the NS but I dont' have an MT so I'm not sure. The drain plug size for the rear diff should be a 1/2" pipe plug. A 1/2" drive breaker bar will fit in there, or you can get actual pipe plug sockets. Not sure about the MT drain; common Subaru sizes would put it probably at 17mm, 19mm, or 22mm.

I haven't seen anything in the screen type filters either. Which makes sense since yes I believe it really a strainer on the pump suction. Unless you already have a phase II AT with the external filter on the outlet to the cooler, adding a filter in the cooling circuit is not a bad idea. Subaru had those retrofit kits for the '90- something's because of junk/shreddings/etc; these can plug up the cooler and lines and stuff.

Haven't yet had any serious torque bind issues. I saw some web site that was trying to get a class action suit going for HG issues. I don't know...I don't mean to wax nostalgic but for me suing Subaru would be like suing a good friend. Ok maybe I am little out of touch at the moment.....

Yes I've run the auto-rx too. It seems nice. IIRC it is a fatty acid ester that slowly disolves gunk. And it has some antiwear additives and some other stuff in it. The patent is online somewhere. If you hunt around over at bob's you might find a group buy, discount code, or sometimes they do a like buy 2 get one half price or something. One oil additive I really like is Schaeffer's #132 Moly E.P. oil treatment. It also helps some of my oil burning lawn equipment stay going. It also has antimony, an interesting antiwear additive. Here's neat little site for product ingredients in case you haven't already seen it: http://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/products.htm

Those filter pore size must be big enough to let cash through! Hey how about we send this pic to Grimace or whatever that guy's name is on CSI. A little zoom and enhance....

A few ideas; others will have better suggestions. I'm pretty sure you can get KYB AGX struts for that year. Those would be adjustable. And there are almost certainly strut bars, upgraded endlinks and swaybars, lowering springs etc. Here's some sites to try: http://www.utimatesubaru.org http://www.renickmotorsports.com http://www.summitracing.com http://www.kyb.com I hear sometimes there are WRX parts inexpensive on nasioc.com due to people upgrading on there.

Yes cleaners have advantages and potential disadvantages. There is a big discussion on seafoam going on right now at subaruoutback You can certainly run a heavier oil if desired. Are you sure you don't simply have the normal Subaru engine noise for which Subaru says do not attempt any repair? These engines will routinley have piston slap and on the solid lifter (non-HLA) engines some rocker clatter too.

Plus seafoam is going to clean stuff up. So if dirt/muck/carbon/etc was cushioning certain things, it may have cleared it out. So you may hear some more noise. Also if there were pre-existing looseness/mechanical issues, that muck may have been masking it?

Wow sorry to hear about the sewer line... Cam o-ring Then installing it on RH DE on '94 Legacy 2.2L. I haven't yet done the timing belt so haven't gotten into the other o-ring. Here's the cap removed with the o-ring around it: Here's where the cap came from. This is sort of near the RH strut tower but on the head of course:

Saw these articles on EndWrench and thought of this post... Evaporator Icing Countermeasure Evaporator Thermostat Probe Location

Once you get at least 90% new fluid in circulation, then the occassional drain and fill is feasible. Maybe someone can post the calcs again of how many drain, fill, operate, drain, fill you'd need to get to at least 90% new fluid. You want to get to 90% new fluid fairly quickly. Many oil blenders say ideally on the change you want at least 90% of the same brand and type fluid in there. Then after that, try to stay with the same brand and type fluid for your periodic maintenance drain&fills. Mobil1 syn atf works nicely, as does redline, amsoil, and others.

Sure, I'll post them tonight after I get home from work (on lunch now). They're from a '94 2.2L. It's really easy; I mean there are just two bolts in there and then you pull the cap out and put the new o-ring on. I have the o-ring part # and size too.

Yes that list should do you good. Your interval though of course is 60k miles on that engine, not 105k. Your '95 2.2L is non-interference. And yes on that engine there are cam o-rings. The RH on is at the DE (drive end) of the engine and can be done easily without touching the timing belt of anything. I have some pics if any interest. Geared/toothed idler is most likely to be the troublesome one.

Schweet. If body is in good/great shape that might work out nicely as a toy.

mm...not sure. I'm not 100% on this but I think on that year the keyless is behind the glove box, the module nearest the fender.