porcupine73

Hi. DTC P0183 - FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR A CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Immediately at fault recognition AFIAK this sensor is in the fuel tank on the fuel pump assembly. If you look under the carpet behind the rear passenger seat, you should see a sort of rectangular access cover. Underneath this cover is the connector to the fuel pump. Make sure that all looks good. Could just be a bad connection. Sometimes when you have the fuel filter replaced a place will unhook this connector. When it's reconnected it might not be fully seated or have a bent pin or something.

How about the fans? When stopped, are the fans coming on when the compressor engages? If not, it might explain why it works when you're cruising but blows warm when you're stopped.

I ordered mine by description. I have a pic somewhere with part # of the one going from the throttle body to the coolant return line. If they don't have too many bends, you could probably just use good quality heater hose. I think it's maybe 1/4" i.d. iirc.

Yes and treat it to oem plug wires and ngk spark plugs. Inspect your coil pack terminals for any pitting or corosion when you have the wires off. Do you remember what code you were getting? Like P0301?

If you're looking for eBay sources for gr-2's, check out jdmwerks13 and performancepeddler. I've ordered from both of them. Performancpeddler sent me one wrong strut but they took it back even though it was like 4 months after I bought them. Tirerack is great too; I would've ordered from them but they were out of stock on at least one of the struts I needed both times. SummitRacing.com has GR-2's as well but they are often out of stock on some of them too for the Subaru's. If your strut mounts are rusty or anything then yah you might want to replace them now. Check the bearings in the front mounts to make sure they still turn smoothly and don't have too much freeplay or anything. KYB makes strut mounts for many of the Subaru's too though I haven't seen them for sale anywhere. Also if your coil springs are rusty, sagging, or otherwise in bad shape might want to treat yourself to a new set of those too.

Definitely give it a good going over for all things mentioned incl torque bind and HG's. Figure in if it needs maintenance too, like plugs, wires, filters, fluids, etc. Unfortunately the NYS mandated warranty from a used car dealer doesn't apply for a vehicle that sells for less than $1,500 or whose odometer reading is more than 100,000 miles.

The belt could easily last well beyond 105k miles but it becomes increasingly risky that it will break. Also, heat is a big enemy of the timing belt, so if you're in a warm/hot climate I wouldn't try to extend it too far. Also the interval is 105 months or 105k miles, so you're nearing or at the age limit of the belt too (since an MY99 was probably built in 1998). This is an interference engine. When you do replace the belt there is a list of things that it is wise to replace at the same time.

When stopped, are the fans turning on when the compressor turns on?

For now I would just clear it and see if it comes back. Subaru's like to pop the P0420 sometimes. It is an emissions code. Typically it is fixed with either the rear and/or front o2 sensor replacement. Your misfire issues may have triggered it. The cat can be damaged by excessive raw fuel dumping into the exhaust. Hopefully your episode wasn't enough to do that.

One test is swap the plug wire with it's mate. Inspect wire to coil and wire to plug connections for corrosion if you do it. If the misfire code follows the wire, you may be hot on the trail. If you replace the plug wires, buy oem wires. Plugs should be oem recommended types, such as NGK.

If you go to NGK spark plugs USA web site and put in your info, it will show you what plugs are available. There was a thread on this not too long ago and the general consenses seemed to be that the copper v-power plugs, changed at proper intervals, were a good choice. The iridiums and platinums are intended to give longer time between service intervals. I've run the iridiums in '00obw seem to work great. Running the v-power's in '96 and '94 2.2L's and those work great too. On the '00 they are fairly easy to change. Treat yourself you a set of OEM plug wires while you're in there if yours are at all looking worn.

Look at the unthreaded portion (shoulder) of the bolt. Is it perfectly round like the rest of the bolt? If it is not round, then it is eccentric. Eccentric bolts are like those on the strut to housing upper bolt for camber adjustment. I can take some pics later if desired.

Yes make sure it's shoved in all the way. You might be able to shim it a little with something if it feels too loose. Also you can get actual pipe plug sockets. I use these with an impact wrench since the impact end itself has a little ring at the tip and tends to damage the plug a little bit.

Is that a regular hex head bolt or is it a flange bolt? Ace Hardware has metric grade 10.9 zinc coated hardware. If you can take the old one with you or measure it before going in you should be able to find one. It's probably something like M12 at 1.25 or 1.5 mm pitch.

Hi John. Looks like a nice Subaru! Actually you might still have a little warranty left on the HG's in that vehicle if the coolant conditioner was added under the recall. I have an '00obw too, no HG issues (yet!). That is the phase II 2.5L which may develop the external peeping coolant leak. If the HG's were done, the only main way it would show up on carfax is if the work were done at a Subaru dealer, which then it gets into my.subaru.com and then carfax pulls data from there. If you go to my.subaru.com and register there with the vin (since you just bought the car you'll have to fax them the bill of sale or title showing transfer to you or some proof of ownership) then you can see the Subaru service history.

The instructions on the bottle of the limited slip additive are going to be for its normal use in gear oil. I'm trying to find the TSB or wherever Subaru said to use the GM limited slip additive for binding. I haven't searched too much yet but someone on nasioc said "The info about limited-slip additive can be found in Nov. 1996 TIPS newsletter." I haven't tried royal purple. Have tried amsoil synthetic atf and mobil1 synthetic atf and those worked fine. The generic autozone atf seemed to work fine too.

The driving lights might be blocking airflow. The lower intakes direct air kind of in an upward direction to catch the bottom and middle of the radiator. Also climbing hills at relatively slow speed makes the temp climb fairly quickly. How hot is the ambient temp? I climbed some hills today at 3000rpm in 1st gear about 75 deg. F ambient and coolant temp got to about 211 deg. F.

I put some Subaru ball joint info here and some pics below. Usually when shaking down the suspension you lift up the vehicle and get it on jackstands. Then get in there and shake with your hands everything you see checking for any looseness. And inspecting for any obvious broken things such as springs. Ball joints you might need to have someone lift under the link with a pry bar while watching for any freeplay. Not much freeplay is allowed in balljoints, like .3mm

Is the coolant level full under the rad cap? One possibility is the cooling system has simply reached its maximum heat rejection capacity and then the temperature starts to climb. Otherwise, it could be anything that would reduce the heat rejection capacity, such as scale/oil/build up in the cooling system, blockages in the radiator, crimped hoses, water pump not pumping enough, etc. Was the water pump oem? Some water pump models Subaru superceded with a 'high flow' version at some point.

Give the suspension components a good shakedown. Do you feel any freeplay in the wheels when rocking hard by hand or foot? Ball joint tight? If you lift that wheel off the ground, does it turn smoothly? If everything is tight, could just be an alignment issue. But if you are noticing drifting and vibration something may be worn. The ripped axle boot you may start noticing clicking and maybe vibration as dirt and stuff gets in there. I just tore one and ordered an MWE axles replacement.

If the pressure is low enough, you might get some stuttering or stumbling, esp under heavy throttle. Did ODBI have misfire codes? If so you might get that. When the vehicle is running in closed loop, the ECU will just hold the injectors open longer to get more fuel in there. To a point of course, because below a certain pressure it won't be able to get enough fuel through the nozzle in the available time. You can probably borrow a fuel pressure gauge from autoparts place if you have something like that. Usually they have a schrader type valve to tie into the fuel rail, but Subaru's don't have those valves on the rails. So usually you would tee it in after the fuel filter. Then you can tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield so you can see it when you're driving. You can't (shouldn't) run the fuel line into the passenger compartment of course. If the fuel return to tank line is plugged, then your fuel pressure may be too high.

Hi primoff and welcome! So did the stabilizer bar actually break or did the endlinks break? If the '05 is anything like my '00 it is an easy job, especially if it's just the endlinks that broke. If the stabilizer bar itself broke, you could look into upgraded aftermarket (larger diameter units). If just the endlinks broke, you could put on aftermarket such as Whiteline. I wrote up my Whiteline KLC044 install here. You may feel more body roll in turns, especially hard turns, or bumpy roads until it is fixed. Or it may feel a little like a boat. It would be more noticable if you had front stabilizer bar issues. Some earlier Subaru models didn't have rear stabilizer bars.

Well it doesn't say anything about Foresters but who knows. Steering - Knocking/Rattling Noises NUMBER: 04-09-01 DATE: 08/15/01 APPLICABILITY: 1995-2000 MY Legacy Vehicles SUBJECT: Steering Knocking/Rattle Noise When Turning If you should encounter a knocking or rattle noise from the vehicle steering system please use the procedures below to diagnose and reduce or eliminate the noise. The noise is usually heard when turning and going over a bump in the road such as when turning into a driveway. Please keep in mind that while the noise sounds the same, the cause (and ultimately the repair performed) is different between 1995-99 MY Legacy and 2000 MY Legacy. EXPLANATION OF MECHANISM AND CAUSE The power steering assist is created using hydraulic pressure. This pressure is generated by the pump and then distributed through valving on the steering rack, to the appropriate side of the rack. There is always pressure on both sides of the rack, in order to provide quick steering reaction and a positive feel. When the steering input is negative, that is, straight driving, the fluid is basically just circulated for lubrication, while maintaining equal pressure. When the steering wheel is turned, hydraulic pressure is greater on the input side, while some residual pressure is maintained on the free side of the rack. When turning the steering wheel, even slightly, on rough roads, or especially when entering a driveway over a curb, the tires will input a reactive force through the rack, caused by the impact. This causes the hydraulic pressure in the input lines to force back against the residual pressure in the free side lines. When the higher pressure hits the lower pressure, knocking noise is generated. While some customers may object to this noise, it does not harm the steering system or any of its components. This noise can be reduced or eliminated by following the procedures below. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1995-1999 Model Years If you should encounter the condition on a 95-99 MY it will be necessary to install a Steering Universal Joint With Damper. The Steering Universal Joint with damper are available in two lengths as shown. These parts are available through your normal parts channel. Always check the part number suppression for any changes. After installing the new Steering Universal Joint with damper using the procedures in the appropriate service manual, it will be necessary to drive the vehicle to confirm the correction. 2000 Model Years If you should encounter the condition on a 2000 MY, it will be necessary to install a set of Modified Power Steering Lines. This kit is available through you normal parts channel. Always check the part number suppression for any changes. After installing the Modified Power Steering Lines using the procedures in the appropriate service manual. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle to confirm the correction. WARRANTY INFORMATION/CLAIMS For vehicles within the warranty period, these repairs can be claimed using the warranty information shown.

I don't know what he means by belt shroud allowing air to get sucked in, but weird things can happen if air bubbles are present in the system. Not sure why they would touch that for a timing belt job though. What year vehicle are you having this issue? There have been a few TSB's for various years about feeling like a knocking/clunking in the steering wheel in turns when going over bumps. It says that's normal. Or there are some hose clamps that can be removed or if that doesn't correct it different power steering hoses.

If you have the tc done, they either have to pull the engine or the trans. If they pull the trans, have them check the driveshaft. Looked like many people thought that was the issue in the other thread. Maybe you already had it checked. It does still spin even with the FWD fuse in, and if any of the joints are slightly frozen or loose it's still going to vibrate. If the tc is replaced, replace rear main seal. Replace rear main seal retainer/oil separator plate with a metal one if it is plastic (but that's an H6 so maybe it's different). Reseating the tc can be tricky. It must be seated fully and the bolts cannot simply be drawn down to try to push it in as it could crack the pump.