porcupine73

I'm pretty sure it's a 5/8" spark plug socket. There's only a few standard sizes for spark plugs, like 18mm, 5/8", 13/16" and mmmm maybe 19mm. I bought this long, like 4" spark plug socket from harbor freight on sale for a couple bucks. This is nice because it is deep enough to not get stuck in the spark plug hole. If you use a regular deep well socket or anything, tape your extension to the socket so it doesn't come apart in the spark plug well. Generally the RH (passenger) side is easiest after removing all the intake tubing, the LH (driver) usually you want to pull the washer fluid tank out and optionally the battery. Depending on the config it can be not much clearence to do the work (not sure about 99 forester though). Oh for torque...I think it's about 15 ft*lb(f) or so.

New crank sprocket is about $25-$30.

What kind of special puller do you mean? SPX makes the special service tools to hold the crank pulley in place while breaking the bolt loose, but there are alternatives.

There's a number of ways to hold the crank pulley still while breaking loose the crank pulley bolt. Big chain wrench, the starter bump trick, screwdriver into the flexplate teeth, wrench on cam flats, etc. If you happen to have an MT, it's easy; just put 'er in 5th and have someone stand on the brake. Also in case you don't already know, these bolts sometimes back out after reinstall if not torqued correctly. I think some earlier books had too low a torque value. After the bolt is out, sometimes just wiggling the crank pulley is enough to get it off the snout. If it's corroded on or something then maybe you need to pull it somehow. I think you will have to get the a/c tensioner bracket out of the way; otherwise probably can't the outer middle timing belt cover over the crank snout.

Also turning reduces rotor mass which reduces its heat capacity.

If you just want to look at the crank position sensor, removing that one bolt at the top of the oil pump that holds the sensor is all that is needed. There is no internal c-clip or anything like that. It is a little bit of a friction fit in the hole. If it's hard to get out you might be right about the corrison. Can it turn at all clockwise/counterclockwise to free it?

Well, when you pull the hose off the pcv valve if you see a lot of grime and oil in there that might be bad. Some say if you shake the pcv valve and it rattles it's OK. But an oem pcv valve is only like $7 so might as well just replace it.

If you have ABS, it's a good idea to open the caliper bleeder valve before pressing the piston back into the caliper. This method keeps contaminated fluid from getting pushed back into the ABS unit. Of course you need to bleed the brakes after that, but it isn't hard. Yes cleaning and relubing the guide and lock pins isn't a bad idea when doing this job. Oh, if you do go with oem pads, and they seem a little tight going back into the caliper mounts, some of the new oem pads were a little too wide at the tabs. You can file the tabs down slightly if they're tight.

You can have to give it a little bit to get through the turns. But you feel binding, popping, wheels hopping, etc that's bad. If it has torque bind, on an MT there isn't much you can do to reverse it. For the oil consumption, a cylinder compression test might be in order. Also it could be as easy as a bad/gummed up pcv valve.

You probably can get away with just pads. You can have your rotors checked for runout. If you weren't getting any pulsation or anything they're probably ok. I was just saying rotors because if you upgrade pads sometimes you would upgrade the rotor to slotted or some other options. This is how you check runout, $7 dial indicator from harbor freight, spin the wheel and read the peak to peak difference. edit: oh yes, your rotors must meet the minimum thickness spec too:

Yes the oil separator plate (aka rear main seal retainer) from the factory is plastic on those years. They can leak. Metal is good and it's good if it is already a metal one in there. If the HG's were done at the dealer, they almost certainly used OEM Subaru gaskets. Hopefully they are the new style multi-layer steel. There is a way to tell, some kind of tab on them. If it has torque bind, that is bad. It can be varying degrees of bad. On the MT's common causes are mismatched tires or improper towing.

Well, torque bind is a common topic, but basically it is driving the vehicle in tight turns forward and reverse in a dry parking lot. It should make the turns with little or no throttle. If you have to really gas it or you feel any binding, popping, etc., it may be torque bind. If it's an AT make sure the FWD fuse isn't installed. All tires should match size and tread wear (ideally within 1/4" circumference).

oem is a great choice for standard daily driver use, even a little bit spirited. Beyond that you're looking at getting into any of the dizzying array of various ceramic and other pads. And possibly rotors. All have various advantages/disadvantages. Check out tirerack.com and stoptech.com for various artilces and inof.

Well the description does say the HG's were replaced. Hopefully it was done properly and with good gaskets. Might want to make sure the title isn't/won't be branded b/c of whatever that minor accident was. I'd work 'em down in price as much as possible. If it has damage the average buyer isn't going to want to mess with it so that could be your opportunity. Also check for torque bind.

Oh sorry that is the idle air control valve. Here's a couple articles on cleaning: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegNoTurboSum04.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Have you cleaned your iacv?

Say what year is this vehicle, which engine (2.2L, 2.5L, 3.0L) and how many miles?

You just need to get the crank pulley bolt out and get the crank pulley off. Then get the outer timing belt covers off. Then you can inspect the crank sprocket. If it needs to be replaced, you can either remove the timing belt, or if you can just get enough slack by removing an idler or two that will work. The crank sprocket just slips over the crank snout and sits on the keyway between the oil pump and crank pulley. It just slides on and off, at least mine did.

Hi! I was a little thrown off because your first post says 1988. A '98 Impreza wagon is not an uncommon Subaru AFIAK. Main things to check would be torque bind and that all tires match to 1/4" circumference. Also this year liked to crack the knock sensor. Other than that just keep up your regular maintenance.

You need to check the sensor output with a scope. Just checking resistance tells you only a small part of the story.

The FWD fuse makes no difference on this vehicle - it is an MT. Check your manual, but I think AWD MT vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground in neutral, or all wheels off the ground. AWD auto trans vehicles can not be towed with any wheels on the ground. Check out this article, it should apply to your '91: Towing Subaru Vehicles

salvage yards such as http://www.car-part.com might be a source, or try posting in the 'parts wanted' section on here. You can order a new oem module of course but that will be the most expensive route. Maybe on eBay there might be some used modules too.

Hi. You can certainly buy the OEM repair manual as an individual. Check out techinfo.subaru.com if you want to get it on CD, I think it's ~$200. If you want just certain sections of the manual you can do like a 72 hour subscription for ~$40 I think and get the sections you want. If you want a print copy, check out here MSA5T9406AX REPAIR MANUALS FOR 1998 LEGACY & OUTBACK (all 16 volumes) SET ONLY msrp $700 Sometimes you will the OEM print versions on eBay for a lot less than the price for new. I got a nice set for '00obw that way. A relatively inexpensive way to get access to the OEM service information for Subaru is http://www.alldatadiy.com For your misfire issue: Were all OEM components used (you said 1 shop was a dealer) (especially spark plug wires Subaru's really like OEM plug wires, and oem recommended spark plugs (usually ngk copper)) Also, do not assume that the CEL now active is the same code. Get it read to know for sure. It might still be a misfire code but it could be something else. Autozone and such places will read the code for free. Just make them tell you the code number such as P0420 not just the description. The coil pack and plug wires can sometimes crack and erode at the terminal points that may be why the one shop replaced it. Sometimes just after a fuel filter change you can get misfire codes. When you do the clutch, you have to decide if you want to do the HG's. Also depends if you pull the engine or the trans. Are you seeing any bubbly oily nasty stuff in the overflow bottle or getting any temp gauge spikes? How many miles on the vehicle? Not every phase I 2.5L will have the issue and there are estimates on the number that are developing the problem. If you plan to keep this vehicle for a while and don't want to worry about HG's in the future and there is savings doing it at the same time as the clutch then it might be worth considering.

Well that is a good point: assuming that the crank angle/position sensor is in good shape, isn't dirty, and doesn't have an excessively large air gap to the crank sprocket nubs.