porcupine73

Looks nice! The Dragon Meet sounds cool. It's hard not to love them white wagons!

I didn't realize at the time that aftermarket upgrades were available. The new ones are probably ok. There was probably a bad batch hence the number of failures on the same era vehicles.

Nice! The wheels look really good with the chrome trim. Are those ASA? (can't quite read the center caps). Did that come with the chromed door handles?

Never heard of that before. Do you have a regular scanner where you can get the Pnnn code out of it? 53B4 almost sounds like it's some hexadecimal value that hasn't been processed to get the P code.

Here's some autometer gauges in my '96 brighton and some cyberdyne in my '00obw...they might not meet your won't look out of place criteria though....

If you're not getting any noticeable shimmy or vibration when braking, then your rotors are probably ok and you can just put new pads in. You will need like a 5" or 6" c-clamp to get the caliper piston pushed back into the caliper body. The rotor thickness should still be checked to be sure it's not below the service limit. You might want to check in the bed-in procedures on stoptech.com For basic normal daily driver use a proper bed-in may not really be necessary.

If you're not getting any noticeable shimmy or vibration when braking, then your rotors are probably ok and you can just put new pads in. You might want to check in the bed-in procedures on stoptech.com For basic normal daily driver use a proper bed-in may not really be necessary.

I haven't yet replaced any wheel bearings so I don't know if that c-frame press would work. I guess it might if you had enough room to work. It doesn't look like the c portion is deep enough to fit though. It doesn't seem like it would be entirely different than a hub tamer. There is an article on endwrench about how to do the bearing replacement with the slide hammer if you're interested. Though it seems to required some special parts. I think harbor freight does have a hub tamer type device...it was discussed in a thread on there maybe 6 months ago I think; I can see if I can find it if any interest. The whole knuckle/spindle doesn't have to come out this way. I don't think there is any advantage to trying to do the struts on the vehicle. They come out and go in pretty easy, at least the fronts. The rears are easier on the wagons than the sedans I think. For the front you wouldn't save needing an alignment anyway because the camber is done by the eccentric bolts and those have to be removed to get the old strut out. Though generally it would be just camber that's off and I've used just a level on the wheel to set the camber to zero.

That's true. For a vehicle that doesn't run and has those kind of issues people won't be beating down a path to the door to buy it. How about KBB private party poor condition value minus cost of repairs minus a hefty discount? If you can get the seller to pay you to take it away that is ideal.

Well it's been over a year since I installed the new stabilizer bar. It hasn't broken again. I made up a page with pics in case anyone else has this happen. I've seen some posts on other boards with it fracturing on 2000 Outbacks also.

I'm not real up on vehicle values. I'd check out some online sources, like maybe the kbb.com values for private party/trade in/dealer for reference. Then deduct the cost of any work that needs to be done. I'd take a checklist with me when going to look at them. Put things in order of priority, like first check for torque bind and tires matching, then hg issues, then on down, like does a/c work, all lights, struts, etc, etc

The first one looks clean. 233k miles is up there, but if it was well maintained it should have no trouble keepin on keepin on. Hopefully the HG's were already replaced in any case with that many miles. The second one says it has has a blown head gasket and cracked rear separator plate. So obviously that's going to take time and money to fix. If the engine wasn't overheated repeatedly severely. And it doesn't state the mileage. Of course clutch condition since they're both MT's. And the torque bind.

Yah on an outer joint I guess it would sling all over the wheel and maybe brake parts. This inner joint slung it all over the exhaust and some other parts. It's ripped open pretty good, though the pic is too dark to really see it. Do these things just rip open suddenly like that? It looked OK before that; I inspected it maybe a month ago. Although there was this time it got kind of soaked with crc electrical contact cleaner....I put plastic over it to protect it but it still got on. I'll probably just get the mwe axle. The only other two options I would consider are oem reman but that's about $180, or maybe a oem from a salvage yard. Well or brand new oem but that's like $300. I am not interested in any from autozone or pepboys or any place like that.

It looks clean; it's obviously just been detailed. You'd really have to see it in person to see if it has the external HG peeping leak issues. If it hasn't had the timing belt replaced, it's overdue and should be done right away. Also if it's the original clutch it might be getting tired too...not that these are serious issues but they're costs/risks to consider of course. Are there any vehicles closer to you? I mean you're kind of far away from that one and shipping costs are going to add like $600 maybe. Or you can fly out and drive back but that's still $$.

That sounds like a good title for a Subaru movie! That one on eBay looks in good shape. But it is a Legacy, not an outback. Plus it's in Indiana and your in Cali so that's going to add to the cost to get it back home...

You can do it in a press if you have the right drifts and stuff. Subaru later revised the procedure to use a slide hammer instead of a press, in part to help prevent deforming the bearing housing and/or damaging the bearing in the process.

OK, some possibilities: buy like a 96 outback or so with blown hg's and swap in a 2.2L from the salvage yard. Or a '95 or '96 Legacy already with a 2.2L in reasonable shape (though maybe a few miles) should be haveable in your price range. Then if you really wanted an outback you could put on outback struts and springs later and be close.

Yes, the LSD limited slip differential additive can be something to try, and Subaru recommended it for certain vehicles at some point if there was binding. Beyond that, a good Dexron fluid should do the job. Some synthetic multi-purpose ATF's that are also suggested for Dexron apps may be more heavily friction modified.

Say one of your front cv joint boots isn't busted open is it? Because yes ooh-ooh that smell it does smell like burning carpet or something nasty. I wouldn't say it's the smell of death but Lynyrd Skynyrd does rock. They just did a concert up here at one of the casinos. Anyway Mine just let out the smoke....it's an '00 outback too, but AT and more miles.

Another Subaru smell thread. Noticed this nasty smell today at the gas station. Figured it was some other car. Then noticed again at a stop light. Then when I stopped at home despot some people were walking by my car and they were waving their hands in front of their noses. So I figured I better have a looksee. Then I saw some acrid smoke pouring from under the hood. Followed the smoke plume down and spotted the RH inner cv joint boot busted open and grease spewed about. This is on '00obw AT 116k miles. Time for a MWE axles replacement! Say grossgary how many miles do you think I could run this for, about 50,000?

Oh sorry about that I thought is was in. This previous thread might have some info.

99 or 00 was when the phase II 2.5L sohc's started. Until ~03 they had the possiblity of the external coolant peeping leak. The best way to find out the price in your area is to look around. Prices vary around the country depending on how popular suby's are there, etc. Try your local craigslist, autotrader, etc.

Maybe with the engine off while parked you stuff the pedal a few times and see if you can get it to stick. There's a few things to check. First if the throttle cable has coroded or gotten dirty inside it could be sticking. Ditto the cruise control cable (if you have cruise). Also the return spring on the throttle body, is that in good shape? Throttle cable lubricants are usually pretty specific. You don't want anything that will stay oily and attract dirt. For my '00obw Subaru says Slicolube G-30M. Probably another of those things that's only available in Japan. Yep a google search for Slicolube doesn't yield many hits. Like 3 or 4.

Sometimes there are other ports. Nipper might know since I think he used one of these ports for his gauges. If you go out to a tee, the thread on the block for the pressure switch is 1/8" bspt (british standard pipe taper thread). 1/8" npt will start to thread in there but it is not the right fitting and could leak. You can get adapters from mcmaster.com or other places.

Hi. One place I know of is renickmotorsports.com They're a Subaru dealer in Calif. that has some aftermarket stuff as well. There's other places too... I'm not going to say whether or not it is a good idea to put nitrous on. Just make sure you know if it is legal to have the bottle installed when driving on the street and if there are any insurance implications. I don't like the dry nitrous systems. It relies on the engine running a little rich at WOT to provide the extra gasoline required. I'd go with a wet shot and start with the smallest nitrous jet it has, which would probably be ~30hp. You can tee in the gasoline solenoid into the hose going from the fuel filter to the fuel pipe on the engine. Fuel pressure on these at WOT should be around 40psi or a little more (you need to know the pressure to select the fuel jet).