porcupine73

Yes a lot of the indicator lights get their ground through the alternator field circuit. Definitely check out the alternator and things. If you are getting this problem intermittently, the alternator may be getting ready for retirement. Here's some copy&paste from EndWrench.com articles: Erratic Warning Light Operation When diagnosing a vehicle with erratic operation (flashing, dim illumination, etc.) of the handbrake/brake fluid warning lights, check the charging system and the charge light system. The charge light system (which receives a ground through the alternator field when the alternator is not charging) is used to check the bulbs of the handbrake/brake fluid warning lights (and some other warning lights on select vehicles). End Wrench® http://www.endwrench.com Electrical Problems? Check The Alternator If a customer complains of a speedometer needle jumping, dash warning light(s) on/glowing dimly, or an engine driveability problem, etc., check the alternator. One of the simplest ways to see if the alternator is causing the problem is to unplug it. The vehicle may run fine with the alternator out of the picture. If the problem is gone with the alternator disconnected, then quite possibly you have found the source of the problem. Check the alternator/charging system more closely to determine the exact cause. The battery is only used to start the vehicle and to back up the charging system as necessary. When the vehicle is running, it’s the alternator’s job to supply electrical energy. If the alternator isn’t capable of supplying the correct voltage/amps (too much or too little) problems may result. Many shops overlook this simple test. End Wrench® http://www.endwrench.com

Hm...good point about the sprockets. Just a few parts with notes I found for Calif. specs: 13021AA141 1999 SPROCKET FOR CRANK PULLEY FOR 1999 LEGACY WITH 2.2 with CALIF EMISSIONS ONLY goes behind Harmonic Balancer 13021AA091 1997-1999 SPROCKET FOR CRANK PULLEY 1997-1999 LEGACYS 2.2 ALL (EXCEPT 1999 2.2 WITH CALIF EMISSIONS) goes behind Harmonic Balancer Not sure about the cam sprockets though...

Hm.....another good idea. That could work too. Could be very thin; just needs to cover. This might just be an excuse to buy a box&pan brake from harbor freight.....

Front axle: first clicking in sharp turns. Then clicking in slight turns. Then clicking all the time. Are you sure you don't have the usual heat shield rattle?

Hi nipper. Hm...good idea on using the smaller loom pieces. That will definitely help. The engine oil temperature and engine oil pressure are tapped off the factory oil pressure switch under the alternator. The ATF temperature sensor is in the line between the factory cooler and aftermarket cooler. There are more gauges to put in....four was the most I thought I could fit in that location and hopefully stay clear of the passenger airbag. I think I'll put these on the pillar. They are vacuum, fuel pressure, and A/F ratio (not sure how well it will work), and something else...I forget what it was now. Bought these gauges over two years ago and never got around tuit putting them in.

Cool thanks....hm...yes carpeted dash cover - that might just work. I would just drill a hole in the dash, but I didn't have the best of results doing that in my '96. I'll have to look for the info on making the fiberglass parts. Yes they do seem to turn out quite nice. I think you just use a lot of fiberglass cloth and that brushable filler....but what form to use to make it on....

Yes that is a lot of wire. I'd like to try making a custom fiberglass cover, I've seen that on pimp my ride and other shows, but how do you do it? Is there maybe a web site that would give instructions? I thought I might cover it with some black fabric of some sort....it might not look the greatest but it would cover the wires....

Hi. Installed these Cyberdyne gauges today in '00obw. Pretty happy with the look from the front. However, the look from the rear through the windshield is a little unsightly with all the wires and such. What could I use to clean up/cover up the wiring? Maybe I should have used a pod instead of trying to custom make something... these are voltage, engine oil pressure, engine oil temp, ATF temp Sorry about all the dust in this picture....there is a ton of pollen around here right now.

Looks like fuse no. 19 is for some relay in the hydraulic unit. It shows SBF-6 for the motor itself, but I'm not sure what that means. You can download the owners manual from my.subaru.com

Well in that case, maybe torque bind, FWD fuse installed? Other than that should be pretty solid?

Will it still roll in neutral now? Does it stall if you let the clutch out in neutral?

Yes, the relay/control module should be right on the hydraulic unit. The unit is that contraption at the RH (passenger) front of the vehicle with what at first glance appears to be 8000 brake lines flowing into/out of it.

If you're willing to take the risk, you can just pull the plug on the knock sensor so to speak, and replace it with say a 470 kilo-ohm or a little higher resistor. Of course the ECU will have no way to protect the timing if it does start knocking, but there won't be any power loss from the ECU retarding the timing. If you don't want to chop the wire on your existing knock sensor, if you post in 'parts wanted' you will find some very friendly and willing people who will send you their old knock sensors for a few bucks. Then you can chop the connector off and use that for the resistor.

Hi abpri and welcome! Hm, that's a weird problem. Did you move/remove any part of the plastic air intake tubing stuff or any other pieces/parts to replace the belt? If so, check carefully for any hoses or anything that may have come off. I have an '00obw too but mine's an auto....

hehe yes that knock sensor has gotten a lot of mileage. The person who had it before me must have gotten a lot of use out of it too.

It'll run without the o2 sensors. It only uses the front o2 sensor to refine A/F ratio control in closed loop operation after warmup, and even then only at certain 'cruising conditions', like not under heavy throttle. Not sure about the wire colors, but one wire has to be the output, one wire is for the heater, and the other is probably a ground as the heater can take up to maybe 10 amps.

The 60k federal belt and the 105k belt have different part numbers though... 13028AA102 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 NON-CALIF SPECS 13028AA150 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 WITH CALIF SPECS 123456789 Digits 1-3 are the 'part description code' - identifies part name and function Digits 7-9 'identify specific characteristics of parts with the same part description code' The specific code is assigned by the Fuji Engineering Division for internal use only. Digit 10 is the 'modification code'; identifies an engineering change to the part. Though they both have an MSRP of $60 which lends one to think they may be the same belt now; like you'd think the 105k belt might be more expensive. But Subaru did not change the recommended replacement interval for the federal spec for these MY's though, so not sure.

Well Calif. was the first to say vehicles couldn't require any emission related maintenance or something for 100k miles. The Calif. timing belts probably had kevlar aramid fibers or something that made them stronger/more durable. 13028AA102 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 NON-CALIF SPECS MSRP/List $60 13028AA150 TIMING BELT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY 2.2 WITH CALIF SPECS MSRP/List $60

Knock sensor looks like the thing in the pic below. Not completely sure about the Impreza, but on Legacies it is mounted with a single bolt (through the hole) to the engine block pretty much right below where the throttle/cruise control cables connect to the throttle body. This one is cracked and the wire is frayed. You don't want yours to look like this:

Are you using at least 1/2" drive or even 3/4" drive sockets and stuff? Otherwise it sounds like it might come out if the equipment would stop breaking!

Hm...that should have the newer version knock sensor. Make sure it's not cracked, the mating surface between the block and sensor is clean and bolt is properly torqued, and that the connector and wiring looks good.

It appears the for the '98 2.2L, Subaru says 60k timing belt replacement interval for federal spec and 105k miles for calif. spec. Not sure if the belts are the same now or not, I think they still have different part #'s but the prices are so close maybe they really are the same belt....or maybe if you get the calif spec belt that would go 105k....?

It might be a little bit late for this, but were you using a 6pt socket or a 12pt? Those bolts are usually pretty tight, though I haven't seen them corode in place. Can you get a 16mm socket on there now?

If the battery was disconnected when the plug wires were replaced, it may not have relearned its idle parameters yet. Also Suby's tend to like their own OEM wires best. After it cut out and you restarted, it may have increased the fuel a little bit if it thought it died because of a lean condition. I can usually smell a little raw fuel on my Suby's at startup if I'm by the tailpipe but not too much. There are many things that can cause poor fuel economy. If you're still on your original front o2 sensor at 103k, you might consider replacing it since it's likely near the end of it's useful life anyway. Suby's like their own OEM front o2 sensors too. Of course, you're nearing 105k miles too, which means you're due for a timing belt replacement if not already done (unless you have the H6 engine...).

I really like the HP 800. I got it from stockcarproducts. I originally ordered from bakerprecision.com (I guess they're a big Neo dealer), but I never received anything and they didn't return my phone calls, though I never did get charged for it either.