porcupine73

mm...did you check the idle air control valve?

But seriously, you would hope the dealership would have morals. Some do, some don't and like any relationship you won't really know the person until you run into a problem. Anyway the car sounds like a nice ride. I'd work 'em down on price though. I've seen other timing chain posts and read a few on other boards where Subaru covered the work under warranty. I don't recall the exact problem. If they're selling you some sort of third party warranty, care must be taken. You have to ask what does it cover and what does it NOT cover. A lot of times those warranties are not worth it especially with Subaru's.

Hi sube12, sounds like a nice ride! I'm not sure about the I, but maybe it stands for the International in STI. I saw on Subaru's marketing info Web site the new standard is STI rather than STi. On some other makes I think it stands for intercooled.

Alright and welcome back! You asked about things to watch for, the obvious ones: torque bind, FWD fuse installed, tires matching, etc. I used to live in Brockport.

I think B11 is the 'chassis code' which I think is on one of the plaquards inside the driver door and/or underhood. I've never looked for it though.

Can you maybe use alligator clip or other jumper wires to make the connection without cutting the tape?

Excellent. Do you know all the stuff to check while you're doing the timing belt? Like water pump&gasket, front cam seals, front crank seal, reseal oil pump, replace toothed idler near water pump, use new tensioner or make sure the one in there is in good condition to last another 105k, reseal oil pump&replace pump discharge to block o-ring, etc.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

I'm pretty sure (hoping!) that cam sprocket holder tool svxpert showed works for both the sohc 2.2L and 2.5L. You can get it from subaru.spx.com (they have ALL subaru special service tools in fact I think they're the manufacturer). The price was I think about $66 when I bought it. You have to request a quote; they don't show prices on the Web site. I don't recall the part # off hand but I think it was 499207100.

I would use the grease only if it specifically says good for CV joints. Generally CV joint greases are great for wheel bearings too, but not the other way around. Redline CV-2 from a race shop or summitracing.com might be a nice choice. If the joint you're working on can't be fully disassembled to flush out all the old grease, then I'd stick with OE grease. Not all greases mix well together. If you order a kit from a dealer or online dealer, you'll get a nice new boot, bands, and grease.

Wow it sounds like you covered all the usual suspects already. Are there any exhaust restrictions/excessive backpressure maybe?

I forgot to welcome you to the board! Welcome! The MAF could still be flaky even with cleaning. Do you have any aftermarket cold air intake or anything installed? How about your TPS adjustment?

How did you clean the MAF? Did you clean the throttle butterfly and stuff? They like to get caked up real nice. How's the knock sensor?

Hm okay cool. Do you know what brand? Dying it red would make sense to be able to tell it apart from other fluids on those pesky leaks/drips and stuff.

Sounds like a nice ride! Should just be like a gl-5 80w-90 gear oil. Actually I've never seen a gear oil dyed red. ATF is normally dyed red and some racing engine oils. Some people have had issues with mobil1 syn gear oil eating something in the MT's. Should be fine, just don't park on hay piles. Some say missing heat shields near the cv joints might let more heat to the boot.

I thought it was 'International' like subaru technica international? But then they recently changed to STI instead of STi. Or how's about Intercooled?

Good point, don't want to forget those! Replace at least the geared timing belt idler 13085AA080 near the water pump, and maybe a new tensioner. Replace rear main seal retainer with a metal one if you have plastic. Reseal oil pump (remove, check rear case screws for back out, maybe put a little green loctite on, replace pump to block o-ring, reseal with permatex ultragrey or anaerobic), check whatever those clutch related bearings are such as pilot, throwout, etc., replace thermostat&gasket since water pump will be off anyway.

That was from http://www.subarupartsforyou.com in the wiper arms section.

Hm...that is a good option. 86532AC290 Outback 1995-2004 Wiper Arms REAR WIPER ARM FOR 1995-2004 LEGACY OUTBACK WAGONS ALL. List about $36. edit: Looks like installation could be a pain though...

Good question on the wiper arm springs. I need a rear one. I can't remember for sure but it seems I asked about it and was told it is available only with a whole new wiper arm. I was thinking about trying to just find something similar at Ace Hardware. On my 'ol 88 lincoln I just paralleled some springs along side the original springs using coat hanger wire. Worked great.

I'm glad to hear people are having good results with these blades. I ordered some from TireRack along with some rotors to arrive next week. Regular wipers always seem very finicky to me, like they want to work well only under certain conditions.

Thanks for the info theflystyle. Yes I had a siezed caliper guide pin on the rear and the wheel got hoootttt so I'm checking over all the brakes now. That's what made me think about upgrading flex lines. For the '00obw I ordered stoptech front and rear lines since I was ordering rear rotors anyway. For the '96 I might try the goodridge when I do the rear drum to disc changeover.

What kind of smell are you getting? Regular exhaust just inside the cabin? Sulfury? Gasoline? Burning oil? Could be something such as oil dripping onto the exahust.

Common coolant leak areas are faulty radiator cap, gasket on the thermostat, or sometimes water pump gasket, or water pump bearing could be going bad.

Hello and welcome! Sounds like a nice ride; sorry to hear you're having issues. First guesses might be knock sensor or MAF. As far as the temp gauge thing - was the coolant changed recently? It's somewhat easy to trap air pockets in these engines. Other members will have better suggestions.