porcupine73

I'd never heard of Motomaster but I guess that's Canadian Tire's line of products? If so I'd guess it's just a private label made by one of the big blenders who label wal-mart oil, etc. As long as it is dexron iii it should work Ok I would guess.

You could do that. Just make sure to watch the shop to be certain they actually use the fluid you gave them, unless they have a 'synthetic' option of their own. Many of those shops just have a couple of base fluids and then they use the Lubeguard additives to 'convert' it to the fluid type needed for the application. That's usually more for the Nissan's and stuff (and newer suby's that want that indemnitsu or whatever fluid). Anyway, for the pump and dump, you just need to find the atf cooler hoses going to the radiator. On my '96 they're on the LH (driver's) side of the radiator. On my '00obw it's much easier to get at since it's at the very bottom of the radiator. Just pull off one of those hoses or from some other pipe that hose connects to (hose pliers may be helpful here to rotate the hose to break it loose before pulling), then use some vinyl tube from Home Despot to route both the hose you removed and the barb on the radiator into a bucket or old milk jug. By using two vinyl tubes you don't have to worry about which line is the supply and which is the return. Then after changing the fluid add an extra quart or so and fire 'er up. When about two quarts have pumped out, shut the engine off. Then add another two quarts to the AT. Then fire 'er up again, etc, until good clean fluid is coming out into the jug. One of the secrets to success with this method is keeping good track of how much fluid you got out and how much you put in to keep it in balance.

I was kind of bored so I thought I'd put up some pics of the winter front on my '00obw. It's made out of Reflectix insulation from Home Despot. It keeps that pesky salt air and too much frigid air from getting in there during hiway cruising and overcooling of the ATF and PS fluid. You know, like how the big trucks have those zippered winter fronts.

Maybe a dum question but are you sure the new thermostat is in the right direction?

You could run the TransSynd in this application. It's a pretty good fluid. Last I knew the only company Allison had licensed to make this fluid was Castrol I think. It has no VII (viscosity index improvers) to shear back, which it shouldn't need anyway if it's synthetic. amsoil makes a transsynd fluid that they kind of reverse engineered. If I were doing the multiple drain and refills, between fills I'd at least get her out on the road up to like 40mph to make sure it goes through 1,2,3,4 and reverse.

Did you do anything to/with the thermostat? Was the timing belt tensioner in good shape?

You can do that mix but ideally a lot of oil makers like at least 90% fresh fluid in the system. Seriously, the pump and dump method of pulling one of the hoses off the atf cooler works very well and is relatively easy to do. It gets you a goodly amount of fresh fluid with less fluid waste than multiple drain and fills. As far as brands, mobil1 is very nice and is available retail. I'm running amsoil syn atf right now seems really nice too. Haven't tried but have heard good things about redline and schaefferoil. There was this awesome small blender SpecialtyFormulations but they're moving so they're down for at least a couple months. I had a bit of a similar experience to what you're saying in my '00obw. The first winter it just wouldn't put much power to the rears. This winter I was on stop and go sheer ice for about two hours. So with every creep forward I'd hit the throttle a little bit to spin the tires. At first it was just the fronts spinning. Then after about an hour of doing this, the rears started to work a lot better. Now she'll spin the front and rear. I think the clutch packs were glazed and this action combined with fresh good atf cleaned them up.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/132.html http://www.speedpartz.com/schaeffer_moly_treatment.htm

If I were doing the dohc I'd use the cam locking tool. But my understanding is as long as you line up the timing marks per the service manual before removing the old belt, if the cams snap, they will tend to snap in a direction away from damage so you can turn them back to where they came from when putting the new belt on.

I have an '00obw with a 5 wire front o2 sensor which I assumed meant wideband. I saw something about it in this post but maybe it isn't right.

If no crank as nipper said could be starter contact set. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StarterServiceWin03.pdf

The o2 sensor is about $100 bucks. If you replace it do yourself a favor and buy an OEM sensor. Don't even mess with aftermarket on this one. It'll be a 5/6 wire wideband. Some of the '00obw's had recalls on the front o2 sensor for tip cracking. How long has it bee since the battery was disconnected?

I'm guessing you mean no crank at all at first? Or do you mean it cranks but doesn't start?

Could try some Schaeffer's #132 moly E.P., that stuff is thick and good. JBweld could be worthy of a ghetto try; it can take 500 deg. F. If you need a lot you could try to get their large industroweld size. I never could find anywhere that had the large size but there are other products like PC-2 I think it was I got at Ace.

The scangauge has some function deep in the menus like more more more that lets you configure custom information to transmit to the ECU. Kind of like a macro I guess. I haven't tried it either. I'm afraid it might send the 'reflash ECU' message and then welllll whooops!

Sounds good man! We got a little bit here in Buffalo but not 4 feet like you. Yes the Subaru rules the snow doesn't it! The only time I couldn't make it out the driveway was when the deep snow started to pile up in front of 'er and roll onto the hood.

Another great choice could be Redline CV-2 grease, but you'd have to find a race shop or order it online to get it.

Might want to check out the stuff at good 'ol Harbor Freight. I think the main thing you need to do a windshield is some piano wire with handles to 'saw' through the existing windshield's sealant.

Yah just replace all that stuff. At least the spark plug hole seals. They tend to compress with time and result in oil in the spark plug holes. The bolt hole seals, well if you don't replace them and you see a couple that are leaking afterward it's pretty easy to just pull that bolt and replace that one.

I forgot what year is your Subaru petersubaru (or does it have the resoviour mounted on the pump or does it have the separate resoviour near the ABS unit?) In the service manual there is a test that has to do with wrapping a string around the pulley and pulling it to see if there is any noise then; I forget the exact details. On my '00obw I had a sound like what you describe except it was there almost all the time in cold weather. So I replaced the pump with new OE and the sound went away.

Remember the toothed/geared timing belt idler near the water pump.

How's about a going bad knock sensor? Did '00 get the updated design?

That price doesn't sound too bad for all that work if it includes parts. With that year 2.5L you may end up with head gasket issues eventually anyway so if the engine is coming out for these other items now wouldn't be a bad time to take care of it. I'd go for it using OE parts if possible. They're probably going to replace the front cam seals and front crank seal when doing the timing belt but I'd ask to be sure. Also highly suggest replacing the water pump since it probably won't last another 100k miles. Also replace at least the geared timing belt idler near the water pump and either of the other idlers if needed. For the oil separator plate, make sure to get a metal one if it has a plastic one. It cannot be replaced without removing the engine. When were the differential gear oils last replaced? Is this an M/T or A/T? If M/T check out the clutch while the engine is out. If A/T how's about a fluid change.

Yours would not be the first post describing this vibration when stopped in drive or reverse immediately after having the half shafts replaced with aftermarket rebuilt units.

Howdy, here's some info. Unfortunately there are also a lot of good diagrams and charts that don't show up here. Transmission Control Module (TCM) TCM receives various sensor signals and dictates the running conditions of the vehicle. It sends control signals to each solenoid according to the preset gearshift characteristic data, lockup operation data, and transfer clutch torque data (duty ratio). A: CONTROL SYSTEM B: SYSTEM DIAGRAM C: SHIFT CONTROL Gearshifting is controlled in response to driving conditions, according to the shift point characteristic data stored in the TCM. Solenoids are operated at the proper time according to the shift pattern, throttle position, and vehicle speed for smooth shifting. NOTE: When oil temperature is below approximately 10°C (50°F) , the vehicle cannot be shifted to the 4th gear. Control module activates both solenoids 1 and 2 in response to throttle and vehicle speed signals. Shift valve moves in response to solenoid operation, supplying/interrupting clutch pressure to the line. Gears are shifted by ON-OFF operation of both solenoids as indicated. D: LOCK-UP CONTROL The lock-up engaging and disengaging conditions are set for 4th gear shift range, gear position and shift pattern and correspond to the throttle position and vehicle speed, and the duty solenoid electronically controlled by TCM controls the lock-up clutch. The lock-up clutch engagement and disengagement are controlled by the lock-up control valve. The lock-up control valve engages and disengages the lock-up clutch by varying the hydraulic pressure. Non-Lock-Up Operation The Transmission Control Module (TCM) sends output signals to the lock-up duty solenoid. This causes the amount of ATF drained from the lock-up duty solenoid valve to be reduced, which increases the lock-up duty pressure. The increased lock-up duty pressure moves the lock-up control valve upwards, connecting the torque converter regulator valve to the torque converter control valve release port. Therefore, the oil pressure from the torque converter regulator valve flows through the lock-up control valve release port to the torque converter clutch and the torque converter apply circuit. As a result, the lock-up piston is forced to separate from the impeller cover, and power is transmitted from impeller to turbine to input shaft, as with an ordinary torque converter clutch coupling. Lock-Up Operation The Transmission Control Module (TCM) sends output signal to the lock-up duty solenoid. Since the lock-up duty solenoid operates in proportion to the duty ratio, the amount of ATF drained from there is increased, thus lock-up duty pressure being reduced. As a result, the lock-up control valve moves downward, which connects the torque converter regulator valve and the lock-up control valve apply port to each other. In this condition, the oil pressure from the torque converter valve flows through the lock-up control valve apply port to the torque converter and the torque converter clutch. This causes a pressure differential across the lock-up piston. The piston is then forced against the impeller cover and turned as an integral unit with the cover. Thus, power from the engine is directly transmitted to the transmission input shaft. That is, the transmission is directly coupled to the engine. The TCM controls the lock-up duty solenoid and the operation of the lock-up control valve. The force applied to the lock-up clutch is controlled for smooth clutch operation because the lock-up operating pressure is controlled by the lock-up control valve. When locking up, the clutch is set in the half-engaged state beforehand. After this, the lock-up operating pressure is gradually increased to achieve smooth locking up. E: LINE-PRESSURE CONTROL The oil pump delivery pressure (line pressure) is regulated to the constant pilot pressure by the pilot valve. The pilot pressure applied to the pressure modifier valve is regulated by the line pressure controlling line pressure duty solenoid and changed into the pressure modifier pressure. The pressure modifier valve is an aux valve for the pressure regulator valve, and it creates a signal pressure (pressure modifier pressure) for regulating the line pressure to an optimum pressure corresponding to the driving conditions. This pressure modifier pressure is applied to the pressure regulator valve to control the oil pump delivery pressure. The pressure modifier pressure regulated by the pressure modifier valve is smoothed by the pressure modifier accumulator and pulsation in the line pressure is eliminated. F: LINE-PRESSURE SHIFTING CONTROL Function Oil pressure which engages shift clutches (to provide 1st through 4th speeds) is electronically controlled to meet varying operating conditions. In other words, line pressure decreases to match the selected shift position, minimizing shift shock. Electronic Control Of Clutch Oil Pressure In Summary Solenoids activate through the TCM which receives various control signals (throttle signal, etc.) Control signals are converted into line pressure duty pressure, which is transmitted to the pressure modifier valve. G: SHIFT PATTERN SELECT CONTROL Shift pattern is selectable automatically between a base pattern suitable for ordinary economy running and a power pattern suitable for climbing uphill or rapid acceleration. In the power pattern, the shift down point and shift up point are set higher than those of the base pattern. (sweet!) Base Pattern To Power Pattern Depending on throttle opening and vehicle speed, 16 areas as shown in the figure are set. Accelerator depression speed ds/dt for pattern change over is set for each area. When the accelerator depression speed exceeds this set value, the pattern changes from base to power. Power Pattern To Base Pattern The power pattern is shifted to the base pattern, depending on car speed. Shifting to the base pattern is determined by the throttle position as shown in Figure below. Time lag in shifting is also determined by car speed. The maximum time lag is 3 seconds. H: REVERSE INHIBIT CONTROL This control prevents the transmission from shifting into reverse when the select lever is accidentally placed in 'R' range, protecting the components such as reverse clutch against damage. If 'R' is selected during driving at a speed higher than the predetermined, the low clutch timing solenoid is energized. Then, the pilot pressure is supplied to the reverse inhibit valve thus causing the reverse inhibit valve to move downward, thereby closing the low & reverse brake port. In this condition, the low & reverse brake does not engage since the ATF flowing from the manual valve is blocked by the reverse inhibit valve. As a result, the transmission is put into Neutral, and the shifting into reverse is inhibited. I: GRADE CONTROL While a vehicle is driving up a hill, gear position is fixed to 3rd gear for avoiding busy up and down shift between 3rd-4th gears. When a vehicle is descending a steep hill under the designated vehicle speed (approximately 50 miles/hour), 4th gear downshifts to 3rd gear automatically by depressing the brake pedal. This gearshift control is released by re-accelerating with depressing the accelerator pedal. These controls are doing this based on the combination of throttle opening angle, engine speed, VS and so on. J: LEARNING CONTROL This transmission is provided with a learning control function which allows the transmission hydraulic pressure to be so controlled that the transmission makes a shift at the optimum shifting point according to the vehicle conditions. For this reason, there may be cases where shift shocks become larger after the power supply is once interrupted (disconnection of battery terminal, flat battery, etc.) or immediately after the ATF is replaced. Once power supply is interrupted, the hydraulic pressure correction values so far learned and stored are erased and the system is initialized (reset to the new vehicle conditions). The system starts the learning again as soon as the power supply is restored, and after driving for a while, the transmission becomes shiftable at the optimum shifting points. Lager shift shocks immediately after ATF change are caused by the change in friction characteristics of the transmission internal parts. Also in this case, therefore, the transmission shifts at the optimum shifting points after driving for a while. K: AWD TRANSFER CLUTCH CONTROL L: TRANSFER CONTROL The transfer hydraulic pressure control module is fitted with the transfer valve body attached to the rear end face of the transmission case via separate plate. The hydraulic oil of the transfer hydraulic pressure control module is led from the oil pump delivery pressure circuit on the transmission case front to the transmission case rear. From there it is further fed to the hydraulic circuit of the transfer valve body. The hydraulic oil pressure (line pressure) is regulated by the transfer duty solenoid and transfer control valve for obtaining optimum rear torque distribution corresponding to the driving conditions. The pilot pressure is regulated to the transfer duty pressure by the transfer duty solenoid whose duty ratio is controlled by the TCM corresponding to the driving condition. (The transfer duty pressure varies with the degree of duty control.) The transfer duty pressure is applied to the transfer control valve. The line pressure is led also to the transfer control valve where the pressure is regulated to the transfer clutch pressure by the transfer duty pressure. (The transfer clutch pressure varies with the transfer duty pressure.) The transfer clutch pressure is applied to the transfer clutch and causes the clutch to be engaged. In this way, the transfer clutch pressure is varied so that optimum rear torque distribution can be realized which corresponds to the vehicle driving conditions.