porcupine73

Hm...any chance of any of the Subaru brothers on this board picking up the remains?

It could be the clearance between the cam sprocket and cam position sensor is too large after the accident. Did anything in that area get shifted? This can cause the engine to stall or not start.

Looks like you get the starter with that one too. Say you bought an engine off ebay recently too right? How did you get it? Did the truck have a liftgate or something? Or maybe it's not super heavy?

It's a classic symptom of alternator issues.

Wow I didn't read the whole story, but yah, I stopped at amco one time and did not like the experience at all so I left. Maybe a salvage yard tranny would be the way to go.

Yah I'd stick with NGK for the Suby's. I've run a couple types including the iridium and they work great. Even the iridiums were only like $5 or $6 each I think.

Hey congratulations on the ride! It sounds nice. I look forward to seeing the pics!

Don't forget your cam cap/retainer o-rings. Also oil pump rear case screws might have had a tendancy to back out on this engine?

My '96 I can smell a little raw gasoline in the exhaust on startup. I'd guess if any of the sensors such as MAF/MAP/ECT is real inacurate maybe it might make it run extra rich? Or if there's a vacuum leak maybe making some cylinders run rich. I love the smell of gasoline in the morning....it smells like...victory.

Yep that's correct. I learned before doing the timing belt by observing the engine whilst running. Is this typically the rotation on most gasoline engines, or does it vary by make/model/etc?

And what was the actual P0xxx or P1xxx code you read?

I noticed this recall for rear subframe corrosion, but it's only for 00-02MY Legacy and Outback: My favorite part:

Well Summit lists only two speed bleeders for all Subaru applications, either 10mm x 1.0 Thread, 35mm Overall Length; or 7mm x 1.0 Thread, 34mm Overall Length. The 7mm shows only two applications: 1997 Legacy and 87-88 Justy.

Sounds good JPX! What you say is so true. I've found that if you have the bleeder open just a little but build up enough vacuum in the collection chamber, it gives you a chance to push the brake pedal slowly to the floor a few times. I've found sometimes I get some extra gunk out the system this way. I think the vacuum method works great for changing the fluid by yourself. I usually do it once a year whilst changing from snow to summer tires.

Yep, Summit had speed bleeders in my size. I think the brand was Russell. I believe it was 10mm x some thread. I can't imagine it's much different from Suby model to model. Anyway, I figure if someone is going to drop $50 on a mityvac they could just spring the extra $10-$15 to get a huge tube of silicone grease from a place such as McMaster. Or maybe the mityvac includes a small tube; the crapsman I bought included a pittance.

What kind of plugs are you running? If they're not iridium or platinum sounds like they're due for a change anyway. I have yet to have an issue with NGK's. Do you think the IACV (or as Subaru sometimes calls it the ISCV idle speed control valve) might be all gummed up? Maybe your intake and throttle butterfly is all coked up.

That's an interesting kit. It's cheap enough. I don't know if I'd use that particular kit because it almost seems too cheap. I mean you want good quality components, especially hose, in a kit like that because failure could mean serious damage to your engine. I also don't like hose barb fittings for pressurized engine oil. There are other such kits available with hydraulic hose and hydraulic fittings, albeit of course more costly. Increased engine oil capacity can be a good thing in maybe extending drain intervals a bit. Increased capacity is not necessarily good if you make a lot of short trips. Any engine oil cooler should be used with a thermostat.

I like it's basicness, especially the manual windows and locks. The only real thing I don't like about the manual windows is it difficult to open/close the assenger window while driving. Your project sounds good. I have a '96 brighton and am working on similar changes. I knew nothing about Subaru's (esp trim levels) when I bought it except it had AWD and was well rated for reliability. Plus I could use a CD player.

Hi bgambino, nope I haven't gotten to the job yet, it will probably be a month or so. I'm guessing/hoping the rusted out looking section there is actually the old gasket. From looking at it underneath the vehicle that's what it appeared to be to me. But I guess I'll find out when I disconnect the union there. If it is too rusted out I hope it's on the resonator side and not the cat side. My next job is timing belt/water pump/idlers/etc/etc/etc on my '96. I need to tackle the more reliability critical jobs first so I always have at least one reliable vehicle ready to go.

I've heard/read the head gaskets can be done with the engine in place, but it recommended only if you don't have a hoist or method to pull the engine. I'd guess the valvetrain on each head would have to be removed first to get the required clearance? Maybe the engine also has to be rocked?

Thanks for the info ron917. Hopefully mine won't be stuck on too hard. I'd guess it's original. Otherwise I'll have to pull out some of my cheap harbor freight air tools and open a can of whoop-butt, or at least Kroil, on it. Maybe I should get a little lead antisieze to put on the new gasket.

I don't think that year has a MAF. I believe it has a MAP (manifold absolute pressure). The ECU can calculate air mass from the MAP signal and others and knowing the intake's flow characteristics.

Yah the ABS wheel speed sensor is about $120 OE. Did the tone wheel get damaged as well? Replacement looks pretty straightforward. There are specs for the clearance between the sensor and tone wheel teeth that must be measured and maintained during installation.

What leak are you experiencing? Just external? Or are you having the exhaust blowing into coolant/oil issue? How many miles do you have on? (concerned as I too have an '00obw!) As far as tools to replace the HG's yourself, you probably need an engine hoist, optionally an engine stand, and of course a good assortment of hand tools. Harbor Freight has engine hoists and stands on sale all the time.

let's see...total for exhaust parts $21.40: exhaust gasket $6.16; two flange bolts ttl $4.40; two nuts ttl $3.66; two springs ttl $7.18. I also got two cam cap o-rings $6.12 ttl and starter contact set $5.31. Add on $9.95 shipping (their minimum shipping charge or 10% of order) for total $42.78.