porcupine73

Yes that is a good point; on both '96 and '00 suby's i have the lighter socket doesn't work unless key is in acc or run. If the fuse is blown, then hopefully it's from a short or too much load on something that was plugged in there.

Yep, if the fuse looks blown just pop in a new one. If it blows again then of course there are other issues. Make sure there isn't like a staple or paperclip or anything in the lighter socket/outlet.

Yep, I have to pass a NY emissions test, not the Westchester one, but all the readiness monitors must be set and the CEL/MIL can't be on. Fortunately my current inspection is good for about 10 more months.

Just give them your VIN when you buy it, that'll assure you get the right part. Otherwise if you look at some of the plaquards on the vehicle like under the hood and stuff it might say.

I checked and I did replace the rear o2 sensor about 10k miles ago. I made about 4 'trips' since resetting the light yesterday and the light hasn't come back on. Anyway, the vehicle seems to running exceptionially smoothly and powerfully since that light has come on and with better mileage, maybe that Valero gas is better than what I was buying previously.

Yep, here's a link to the chain wrench I used. It seems to be very nice quality for the price. HF is awesome for great deals. OK, so maybe some of the stuff isn't the highest quality and it's all made in China, but it's a fun place to shop. I wrapped a piece of an old accessory belt around the crank pulley to protect it whilst loosening the bolt which was very tight. Of course getting the bolt back in properly is critical so it doesn't loosen up over time and damage the crank snout. I looked at that kit you mentioned on eBay and from appearance it looks good, it looks a lot like OE, the pulley colors might be a little different but who knows maybe it's worth a shot. A '92 would be non-interference so that's good.

How many miles are on the vehicle? If anything like plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, o2 sensor, etc. are due for changing or are suspectable I'd change them out with OE components. How's the throttle butterfly look? I peek at mine by taking out the air filter, opening the throttle a little and looking in there with a mirror and shop light, of course maybe your year has drive by wire? Does this vehicle have a MAF or a MAP?

Possibly, the starter bump trick with a socket and breaker bar properly wedged against the body. Harbor Freight has a suitable chain wrench for $20.

I am incorrect. With those two sensors so close to each other I wonder why the temp gauge doesn't show any flucuation even when idling hot enough for the fans to come on.

Plus at the dealer you can drool over all the new vehicles in the showroom whilst getting the oil change done. Maybe if you buy like a '5 pack' of oil changes or something they'll give a discount. I used iffy lube many a time while in college with no issues but I'm far too nervous to use them anymore.

Been getting mine at subaru-parts-dealer.com, a place in the dakotas, seems to be good prices and service so i haven't tried anywhere else (yet), their parts come from the Subaru Denver regional distribution center.

Go for it and change it. generally I think the suggested is like 80w90 front and 75w90 rear. i run amsoil severe gear syn 75w140 in both suby's. gear oil may not look 'dirty', but it can shear so dirt (shavings/etc) is not the only factor.

Typically CTS is near water pump suction; ECTS is near block outlet to radiator.

I know it is tempting when seeing low prices but I would stick with OE parts. Yes they may cost a little more but you know what you're getting and a history of reliability. If you buy them online from a Subaru dealer (not from a local dealer) you will be able to get them for maybe not a whole lot above dealer cost. But it also depends on what you use the car for; if it's used for work and there is no spare/backup vehicle then I would not skimp. If it's just a short drive to work and/or there is backup vehicle in the driveway then the risk might be worth it.

CTS is for the temp gauge. ECTS is for the computer/ECU which controls the fans. Not sure of a third? Sensor on steering pump can be for pressure for the ECU to bump up the idle a little bit if needed or I'm not sure if there's a warning lamp for the P.S. I don t think so...

Hi yogi and welcome! Are you maybe feeling a little driveline shock with the TC locked up when the agressive cruise control gets back on the throttle after coasting?

If you've done a timing belt before you should find the Subaru job pretty easy and a huge savings over having it done at a dealer. Just pick up your OE parts online and you should be good to go. Nipper's list looks good to me. Usually the toothed/geared idler near the water pump is the troublesome one. If you search on EndWrench.com you can usually find some good information about these jobs.

Thanks for the help guys. The recall front o2 sensor replacement (WXW-80) was done at 77,821 miles on 11/15/03 (prior to my buying the car used). I'll double check tonight to see if I already replaced the rear o2 sensor on this vehicle (or if it was on the '96); if not I'll put it in (OE). Cleared the code, will see if it comes back, wow the scangauge is so handy for that since you can just press the button and read and clear the code immediately without even pulling over. The front o2 sensor recall replacement was: Recall - O2 Sensor Replacement NUMBER: WXW-80 DATE: 01/2001 APPLICABILITY:2000MY Subaru Legacy and Outback 4EAT 2000MY Impreza 2.5 RS MT5 or 4EAT 2000/2001 MY Forester MT5 or 4EAT SUBJECT: Front Oxygen (Air/Fuel Ratio) Sensor Subaru of America, Inc. (SOA) has determined that the affected vehicles listed below may experience front oxygen Air/Fuel (A/F) sensor element cracking. Should this occur prior to replacement, the CHECK ENGINE warning light/Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate steadily while the engine is running advising the driver of a malfunction and the need to seek repair service. This program will involve replacement of the front oxygen (A/F) sensor on affected vehicles. Please Note : Because of the number of affected vehicles and part availability, this program will be released in phases determined by geographic location. Dealers will be notified of the release schedule when available. AFFECTED VEHICLES ^ 2000MY Subaru Legacy and Outback with 4EAT only ^ 2000MY Impreza 2.5 RS with MT5 or 4EAT ^ 2000/2001 MY Forester with MT5 or 4EAT

OK so the MIL/CEL came on the way into work this morning. Read it immediately with the scan gauge - P0420 which I already know is 'catalyst system efficiency below threshold' from other posts on here and alldata. No other codes reported. '00OBW 2.5L N/A AT 107k miles So I cleared it to see if it will come back. 1. I'm pretty sure I replaced the rear o2 sensor maybe 15k miles ago but I can't remember if it was on this '00obw or on the '96 so I'll have to check. 2. According to my.subaru.com the front o2 sensor was replaced at about 80k miles under recall (some piece could break off or something) 3. No noticed difference in performance; actually scan gauge was reporting record mileage for this vehicle today 29.9mpg; usually it's about 28.5 or so. 4. Bought premium gasoline last night at a relatively new 'Valero' station where I haven't bought from before.

Maybe it's not an O2 sensor causing the problem?

Hello, not sure about '01, but I have a '96 and an '00 and the fuel filter for both is in the same place as shown in pic below. It's about $20 for a new OE filter (which is silver, the black on in the pic is not OE). AFAIK it is not a 'lifetime' part.

Or the clutch packs might be really worn out?

Yah I think I better just leave it alone, especially after reading in the service manual "LOCK-UP DUTY SOLENOID This solenoid is mounted to the control valve, and its duty ratio is controlled by the signal sent from TCM. It then controls the lock-up control valve to provide smooth engagement and disengagement of the lock-up clutch." I just assumed this was an on/off control, but it is not, so slamming it on or off full power is probably not a good idea. I didn't want to make it lockup when it wasn't already, but rather unlock it when it was already locked. Anyway thanks for all the info and suggestions. As always everyone on this board is so kind and helpful!

Hi nipper, thanks for the info. The vehicle I was thinking of with that little button was a '03 explorer but it turns out it had a 5 speed AT (I thought it was 4 spd) so I think you're right the button locked it out of 5th. Well you know how in the Sub when you're cruising along at say 55mph and you give it a little gas and the rpm's jump up a little bit, I'm assuming that's the TC unlocking because if you move the shifter to 3 the rpm's go even higher. I'm also assuming it unlocks the TC there to give you more acceleration b/c the engine just can't pump out a lot of HP at low rpm like that. I just was wondering if I could make it do that manually when I want. I haven't figured why, if the TC locks in all gears, that if I stay in let's say 2nd, anytime you give it a little more gas you can see the rpm's raise up instantly. If the TC were locked then the rpm's would rise only in proportion as the speed started to increase.

Have you guys seen that CRC MAF cleaner at any of the parts stores yet?