porcupine73

Really the wrx sti isn't available in a coupe? That just seems weird. I have an idea about that but it's a little outside the box. Sweet, then I can haul 2x4x10's and 10' lengths of pipe in style!

Really, the dealer is required to tell you who is the P.O.? That's pretty cool I didn't know that. Is that like at the Federal level? What if the dealer buys the vehicle at auction, I mean do they know who the P.O. is? I'll have to try that trick on the next Suby purchase, but man if these two I have keep working so well with so few issues that will be a few years!

Yah that TC lockup in third freaked me out the first couple times it did it, I thought it was slipping. It takes a while for it to do it. I'd guess it's an effort to keep the ATF temp down and/or increase mileage on long hill climbs and/or towing.

whoops

If you really want to talk to them maybe you could put a few $ in McD's gift certificates or something in there, or hey how about a Home Depot gift certificate. The information you get could be worth the much. Maybe you could offer to send back their left behind materials too...or maybe not! Or maybe you could send them a Christmas card thanking them for taking such good care of the vehicle.

It all seems correct, Josh is talking about the flow in the engine (bottom to top) and RemcoW is talking about the flow in the radiator (top to bottom). I think the manual said the rad is a crossflow? So maybe it's top to bottom and right to left. I would have thought it was the same way in all vehicles because that flow just makes sense, I mean isn't that how boilers and water tanks are designed, the warmer water having a propensity to rise and the cooler water having a propensity to sink?

Well $10k isn't a horrid deal if you really like the vehicle and it's in good shape. Wow the exploding differential is interesting I never would have thought that could happen. The thermostat gasket goes on around the circumference of the thermostat. I believe the part numbers are 21200AA072 & 21236AA010 (according to subarupartsforyou.com which seems to have good prices [never ordered from them] but they're one of the only Subaru parts dealers I've found online that actually lists part numbers unlike those trademotion based sites). As far as coolants, the OE subaru coolant is like many other Japanese coolants; a phosphate 'non-amine' coolant. I'm using BASF G-05 (Zerex brand) in my '00obw; that should work OK and it gives the benefits of silicates and organic acid technology. I used prestone all makes (dexcool/OAT) in '96 legacy seemed to work fine but it can have issues if you're sucking air in anywhere in the system. Make sure all air pockets are out to avoid overheating afterwards. I'd say you could get the coolant flushed anywhere; if you go elsewhere than a dealer but want the conditioner, just pick up a bottle at a dealer and take it with you. Best to use only distilled or RO water with the coolant unless you buy premix. You could do the coolant yourself; it's pretty straightforward, and if you want to flush I could take pictures of my homemade flusher which will pay for itself ($100) fairly quickly if you use it even a couple times.

That's true, checking the oil pump rear case screws and replacing the o-ring and resealing is probably a good idea. Make sure the o-ring doesn't slip out of place when putting the pump back on. I used Permatex Ultra Grey; others have used anaerobic sealant with good results too. I bent the case prying because I missed a bolt, stripped out some screws on the rear case because some had loosened up and a couple were super tight, and rotor clearances were at upper service limit replaced the entire pump, about $100.

It's 'special tool' ST 499207100 CAMSHAFT SPROCKET WRENCH Can get it from SPX. Looks like this:

Hi Rich. Actually I just finished doing that same service on '00obw. You do have the 2.5L 4cyl right? (wasn't sure if the limited has the H6 option?) Other things I can think to check while in there: replace any timing belt idlers that seem loose/worn or are leaking grease, especially the toothed/geared one near the water pump. You need a water pump gasket if you don't already have one. Might as well install a new OE thermostat and gasket since you'll have to take it out anyway when doing the water pump. Could do the radiator hoses and bypass return hose if desired but they tend to last a long time. Could replace the alternator/ps pump and AC belts if they haven't been replaced yet. Plugs if they're due, wires if they've never been done before or at all look in bad shape. Before pulling the cam seals, take note on the cam seals as to how far they are driven in so you can avoid driving them too far. The spx cam sprocket holding tool is invaluable (about $60) or can hold the flats on the cam if you're taking the valve covers off or a chain wrench can work but I don't like the chain wrench for those sprockets. You're just about due for checking the valve clearances anyway, which you might as well do if you're going to replace the valve cover gaskets, in addition you probably would want to get the spark plug hole seals (4), and about 12 I think of the sealing grommets for the valve cover bolts. ATF and filter change if not done recently?

Hm, does it sound three times? That's what it does to me if the door is open and I press 'lock'. I accidentally got my '00obw into valet mode a few months ago; maybe tomorrow I'll try to get it out of valet and see if the method works.

Does the remote work to lock/unlock the doors? Your method sounds correct,

Sounds like a sweet buy! 2. the temp gauge or temp sensor might be a little off, or the thermostat might be holding a little higher temp than usual. It would not concern me. Those gauges are just kind of relative anyway, there is no guarantee that half way up means the same temp on both vehicles. If you are having the coolant flushed, just have a new OE thermostat and gasket put in at the same time - it's only two bolts. 4. looks like a little gear oil is leaking out past the differential side seals. It's like that on both my suby's too. Just make sure your diff oil levels are correct. You'd have to replace the seals to keep it from leaking which would mean (I think) pulling the axle half shafts and then removing whatever holds in the stub shaft there.

OK it goes from bottom to top in the engine and from top to bottom in the radiator. The diagram I see in the service manual shows coolant exiting the engine through the upper radiator hose with the lower radiator hose going to the water pump suction after the thermostat.

pm sent

Yes the radiator caps can and do go bad, that little rubber seal on there could get gunky, spring weak, etc., make sure the radiator neck is clean too. Just replace it and you should be good to go then.

I know where there's some pictures and a writeup of the Subaru hitch, but it's for an '02?

Also being an '01 you would have the 4eat phase II which had some improvements I think over the phase I with hardened steel in some critical areas or something. If you really want insurance you could consider a bypass or hydraulic filter on the ATF to get really fine particles like down to 2 or 1 micron. I don't know how fine the external OE filter goes but my guess would be maybe 20 micron. Anyway, I saw on another board about this taxi company in canada that installed these kinds of filters on all their vehicle and saw a dramatic drop in transmission issues.

Hi Jon! After you replace the sensor (or during the work) you could just disconnect the battery for a while. Then the ECU will have to relearn all parameters and short and long term fuel trim, etc. Even if you don't disconnect the battery it will eventually adjust all these things by itself anyway. The general suggestion on this board is to buy a genuine original equipment Subaru front O2 sensor rather than any aftermarket type. The genuine can be had online for maybe $90-100 or less depending on model. If the sensor still seems tight after all the pbblaster sometimes running the engine for a minute or so helps free it up as the exhaust begins to warm. Excellent choice on planning to stay with Subaru's for a long time. I think you'll find them a relatively easy vehicle to work on with things layed out thoughtfully with service in mind unlike many other makes. The only sort of weird problem I have sometimes is that not enough goes wrong with them to satisfy my desire to work on them.

How much for the extra warranty and exactly what does it cover and for how long? Best bet for the money would be change out the ATF to the best stuff you can find (i.e. synthetic like schaeffer, redline, amsoil, mobil1, or specialty formulations). And maybe put on a cooler. I would do that before spending money on some warranty.

Hi, on the suby's I have the exits the block and enters the radiator at the top, then the lower radiator hose goes to the water pump suction. OK, if you can get the fans to go on by using a variable resistor in place of the ECT sensor, then either the sensor is faulty or the engine is not reaching sufficient temp to make the fans go on. They usually won't come on until like 202 deg. F which if it's cold out and/or heat is on engine might never reach at idle.

I wouldn't worry about going WOT. Sure, there's additional force on the bearings and stuff, but as long as you have a good oil with good AW characteristics and stuff it will handle it. I don't know if you have AT or MT, but I would try to avoid lugging the engine.

Set there at idle and then reach up in there and _gently_ move/shake/jiggle the harnesses and stuff back there and see if it happens then (perhaps a loose connection?).

If you have a haynes manual (for any vehicle) available, check out like inside the back cover. All the haynes manuals I've had anyway had a full color glossy page showing like 16 different spark plug issues and the possible causes.

The temp sensor might not be a bad thing to try, especially if you don't want to mess around checking connections and stuff. Note there are two temp sensors - one for the ECU fuel maps, the other for the temp gauge. Does it bottom out suddenly or slowly (if you were able to notice)?