porcupine73

I looked at the eBay CD's but never ordered one. Somewhere on the techinfo site I recall being able to download the entire service manual pdf's for my vehicle or maybe it was on CD for $199 which I thought was not a bad value. I paid $50 less for a set of OE printed manuals on eBay.

The ECU will throw a code only if it can tell there's something wrong in the circuit, like low input or high input, (like short or open), if the sensor is just grossly inaccurate, the ECU probably can't tell there's an issue. (Actually I did get a MIL for the ECT on my '96 last year and replaced it but I do mainly cold starts and never noticed any issue). Why do you think that P1101 code has to do with fuel metering? It does on some vehicles like Mazda, but P1xxx codes are manufacturer specific so some generic list may not be accurate.

Hello. I've got a '96 Legacy too. Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECT) (kind of buried near the idle air control valve (IACV) is known for causing warm start problems. I have the alldata for the '96 and P1xxx codes are manufacturer specific so I'll see what I can find... edit: hm, well it says P1101 is neutral position switch circuit malfunction, does the thing not even crank, or does it crank but not start? If no cranking at all, then something may very well be botched up with that switch. alldata tells me there might be the same code for the TCU and the ECU but I didn't see anything else listed for this code.

It might have taken it a bit to melt the water frozen rock solid in the upper radiator hose so it could start circulating again. There hot water would have just been touching the wall of ice but not running over it so it could have taken time to melt.

How much does that on-star service cost? I'm guessing it must be like $25 a month. I don't know that I'd want to pay that much for what it offers. I mean if you already have a cell phone and don't make a habit of locking your keys in the car and not having any spares then...

Yah I'd just do it as soon as convenient, before 105k of course, sure it could last a lot longer than that but if it does break it won't be a cheap fix. There is a common list of other things that should at least be looked at while the timing belt is off and indeed probably just replaced like the cam seals, crank seal (on the oil pump), water pump, the geared idler pulley and inspect the other idlers. I just go with a new tensioner each time that way I don't have to mess with pressing the rod back in and plus I know I've got a good one in there that way.

I hate that problem, this happens on both my '96 and sometimes '00 too. I saw a post on here somewhere about fixing it. On mine if it happens I just slam the hatch really hard and that makes the light go out so I haven't really been motivated to try to fix it. Does your hatch latch stick? It does on both my Sub's. Like you squeeze the handle to pop the hatch, but the handle doesn't return to it's original position, it stays squeezed in unless you manually push it back. And that hatch won't latch if the handle is squeezed in. I fixed that pretty well by spraying the heck out of the mechanisms with Penephite and Lubricone.

I backflushed mine with an inexpensive suction/pressure pump from harbor freight, it'll suck or push one quart of the fluid of your choice and it costs only about $6. It has like a 3/8" hose barb so you hook it up to whatever you want. I have about 5 that I use for various fluids.

What?!?!? well that wasn't any fun.

Reusing the old pulley I guess depends on whether the one you get comes with a new pulley. I don't know exactly what the pump style is for that year, but I just replaced the PS pump on my '00OBW and the new OE pump came with a new pulley installed. To reuse the old pulley I'd had of disassembled the pump since it was welded onto the shaft not just pressed on.

If at all possible flush the rack good before firing up the new pump after the replacement and if practicable install some sort of filter like a hydraulic filter or a magnefine in the PS return line. If the thing is grinding and it got metal shavings into the system for any reason that won't be good.

My experience is soak with Kroil every few days starting as far in advance of the job as possible. It does seem to come out easier with the exhaust warm, like after running for maybe a minute. If wrenching on it in the lefty loosey direction doesn't work sometimes alternating between that and righty tightey can help loosen it. I like to use something (wrench socket whatever) in 6 point rather than 12 point if possible. I've heard that on some Ford diff drain plugs I think it was the dealers warm the drain plug and melt some real beeswax on it and then it comes right out, I don't know if that might work for O2 sensors too!?

There was a post on here before where someone was not getting any output from the ECU for the pump relay, so s/he opened up the ECU and replaced the driving transistor I think it was and that fixed the problem.

Can you check the owner's manual; I would imagine that would say what to do. I'm not sure what would have to be reprogrammed. I had battery out of my '00OBW for three months and the security system remembered my settings, remotes still worked, and was still in valet mode just like it was before I disconnected the battery

I'm probably missing something, but the fuel pump runs for maybe a second when the key is switched to run, which is normal isn't it? Then it runs again when key is in start or is in run and the engine is actually running? I mean there isn't going to be power to the fuel pump simply because the key is in run (without engine running)? Do the Suby's have that sensor where if it thinks the car is flipped over it shuts off the fuel pump?

I think I saw that the flow rate of the PS pump is actually higher at idle than at higher rpm's which if true I am guessing is to make for speed sensitive steering. Are you sure the PS pump and belt are in good shape and the fluid level is correct? A couple turkey baster replacements of the PS fluid would be something cheap to try.

Just curious what brand and type ATF was put in?

Hm, interesting idea! Since you have both vehicles and their associated parts at your disposal maybe you could take some measurements and see what you come up with? Another idea may be, I don't know how rare SVX parts are, but maybe some $$ could be made parting it out? 'tis a wise man that asks 'why not?' while others simply ask 'why?'

Yah if you can blast all the rust off in some manner, harbor freight always has sandblasting equipment on sale but as mentioned you need a good compressor and connection. They have the little handheld guns on sale all the time, some people just use sugar or baking soda in them for blasting, never tried that though. The POR-15 sounds like a great idea I've hard good things about it, just make sure you top coat it afterward or it'll get distorted a little from the sunlight.

Hi pdxsuby! Maybe you didn't tighten it enough, you have a bad crush washer, you have gouges on one of the mating surfaces. I've seen it leak a little from the engine oil drain plug on my '00OBW too when I didn't have a sealing washer on it. Started using 20mm crush washers from parts america and it doesn't leak anymore.

I think two of those wires are for power for the heated wire and the other two are for the sensor wire. The ECU knows the intake air temp and stuff and then can tell the mass of air passing by reading the sensor wire. With a meter I don't know if the user could tell whether the output signal is correct though.

Hi Seamarshal and :welcome: ! Does it have a separate indication for each door and the hatch (if so which one is illuminated?) or just one general indication? Those door switches as you've already said you replaced the driver's door one I've found can get a little fussy with corrosion and stuff over time. Does this issue make your dome lamp stay on (provided it's switch is set to come on when a door is open)?

I had that happen on 4eat phase I also, dropped the pan and in order to remove the filter it seemed this pipe/tube had to come out, which when removed another gallon or more of ATF came out over the next few minutes. I don't know if that was the purpose of having that removable tube run over the filter but I thought it was pretty slick to sort of make sure it all comes out when changing the filter. In subsequent changes when not doing the filter I just used the pump and dump method. I've tried that lucas AT fix goop too, man that stuff was so thick it was hard to get it down the dipstick/fill hole. Didn't seem to make any difference and haven't used it since. I agree unless it's a last ditch effort I probably wouldn't use anything like that as good fresh ATF has cleaning properties anyway.

Man that ride still looks hott today. How'd you hook up such a sweet deal?

Hm...what model and year is this Subaru? I don't know all the codes that can cause a flashing CEL but cam position sensor too out of sync with crank position sensor is one of them, which could be caused by a few different things.