porcupine73

Does that have the HID setup?

Well that code, at least of an '00OBW, is front oxygen (a/f) sensor heater circuit high input. Unfortunately, in the troubleshooting procedure for this issue, it never says replace the o2 sensor; the only item it lists for replacement is the ECM. Other things include repairing battery short circuit in harness between ECM and front o2 sensor; read front o2 sensor heater current and make sure value is less than 2.3A (otherwise replace ECM), shake the harnesses.

Well if you're already replacing the timing belt then you're pretty much there. The crank pulley and crank sprocket have to come off, then there's some bolts holding the pump onto the block and then with a little gentle prying it'll break the sealant and come free. Make sure to get a new front crank seal and o-ring with the new pump (it was not included with the OE pump I got, had to order it separately).

Dexron ATF's already have friction modifiers in them anyway, if you don't want any friction modifiers in your ATF then you have to use type F.

If you're thinking the oil pressure might be low then you need to hook up a good oil pressure gauge and make sure it's in spec for that model, like >14psig oil at idle with oil at operating temp or whatever it is. Since the engine is already out that's probably not practicable at this point. If you're resealing the pump anyway, then take the back cover off the oil pump and measure the rotor clearances. If they're near or out of the upper service limit spec, then as far as I know you can just buy a new matched rotor set and use your existing pump casing (provided the case where the rotors sit isn't worn). On my '00OBW at 100k the clearances were at the upper service limit.

I think the limited slip additive is just friction modifier, I don't think it actually contains any gear oil. I used the trans-x in an old '88 lincoln that was on it's way out and it did work but seemed like more of a last ditch effort.

Maybe something is messed up with the radio itself then if the fuse is good. I live in NY but do projects in Canada sometimes and I love it. My favorite two things are when Canadian's say 'right on', and when they refer to Tim Horton's as "Timmy's".

Good point gbhrps, I recall that watery glue from working with acrylic plastic in shop class in high school, that glue worked great and you could not see the seam at all after gluing, especially if you buffed it a little bit afterwards.

If you look at this guy's web page, http://www.staff.uaf.edu/fnjwt/subaru.html and scroll down a few pics, you'll see how he undid the intake manifold ansd sat it on the windshield.

Wow I guess if I ever run into a repair that requires the SSM III I'll probably just buy a new Suby! Well at least it'd be a big hit at a dinner party with all it's jokes! A funny thing happened to me the other day while I was diagnosing, I told the technician to press any key, but he couldn't find the 'any' key, and then he broke my coffee cup holder.

Provided the the speedo (75mph) and gps readings (97mph) are accurate, if the new tires are 30" dia the original tires must've been about 23.2" dia?

Well it would probably be worth a shot to save it! If you can see the cracks I might try a clear or amber epoxy. Otherwise JB weld might work that stuff is pretty good.

Well that doesn't sound good. You see some weird things happen in parking lots. Sounds like you're lucky your air bags didn't deploy! What year/model is your vehicle? A good body place could patch that up pretty quick I'd say, but if you want the door skin replaced of course that costs $$$.

Are there any reasonable alternatives to the Select Monitor? To me it just looks like a rugedized laptop with some custom software and some sort of cable to connect to the diagnostic port and of course the setup ain't cheap, like I'm guessing $5k. Specifically I'm wondering if one could just buy the interface cable and some 3rd party software and use it with your own computer.

Ah, thanks snowman, I hadn't heard of those before, but maybe that's why some of the landcruisers on ebay have onboard air compressors installed in the back.

I saw on this toyota landcruiser site about these locking differentials they use for rock climbing that are locked and unlocked using compressed air and was wondering if anyone knew of anything similar for subaru's?

The speedo will be off by the ratio of the circumferences or diameters or radii (since the circumference is a linear relationship to the radius or diameter). So for example if you to 27" diameter tires from 26" diameter tires the ratio is 27/26=103.85%, so if you're speedo says 55mph (and is accurate) then you're actually going about 57mph.

They won't all turn at the same speed jacked up like that unless you have locking differentials all the way around. If you just have open diffs then it isn't going to happen like that.

Hi funkyfish77 and welcome! Summit racing has some devices to do that for fords and chevy's but I don't know if they have them for Subaru's. These little boxes basically take the signal from the VSS and output it's own signal at some (usually adjustable) percentage of the incoming frequency. Another option might be an aftermarket speedo that is adjustable.

Wow congrats on the purchase of the scanner, what model is it? Too bad I'm on the other side of the country otherwise I'd be keeping a cabinet full of oreos and beer for my repair emergencies! Does matco have trucks they sell tools out of like snapon? I've never seen one, but actually I've only seen a few tool trucks in my lifetime. I got a 1/4" matco air wratchet off eBay man I love that thing.

Nice description jamal. One possibility if the vehicle is supposed to have a sway bar but doesn't is that someone removed it previously, like maybe an endlink broke or something and they just removed everything in stead of fixing it. Though it is a safety inspection item, at least in NY. I need to look at my '96 legacy brighton and see if there is one on the rear, I know there is on my '00obw but it's pretty small diameter at least compared to the front.

Your list is already fairly complete, timing belt, water pump, cam seals, also replace front crank seal, possibly the geared idler, and at least check the other idlers for free play, grinding, etc. A new tensioner is required only really if the existing one is leaking or if you want to play it safe, I would just use a new one. That price sounds terribly high to me but I don't live in Denver. I would insist on all OE parts.

Things I like about alldata: search function (but only works for parts or systems like 'oxygen sensor', doesn't work for things like 'valve cover bolt torque'). They do seem to keep the TSB's and manual corrections/additions up to date. The site is pretty fast and I've never gotten an error or anything like 'down for maintenance' (yet!). I imagine their coverage varies by manufacturer and maybe even make, like if they can work out a deal to use the OE material. The Subaru images are not nearly as good a resolution as those in the OE manual but they are pretty good. I did notice in a couple spots it shows pictures of the dohc engine but I have the sohc, I don't know how the OE manual corresponds. Also, the OE manual I think shows the VIN range it covers but I don't remember for sure if alldata had that listed. All in all I think it's a pretty good value, it gives you convenient legal access to the material without a lot of initial cash outlay.

Sounds good kimkathan. Does the engine crank but not start, or does it not even crank? I would think if there is something up with the NSS circuit (it might not be the switch itself, it could be out of adjustment or a bad connection) then it wouldn't even crank, you know like protection to keep from cranking it in gear.

I agree BushmasterSI, I would have preferred the CD(s) as well but I didn't know they were available until after I already bought the printed manuals. The printed manuals are nice but sometimes it is a little tricky to find things in them. I have alldata too and I find myself using that a lot because I can print it out and write on it and get it oily and stuff and then just reprint it and for Sub's anyway alldata appears to have the same images and text as the OE manuals.