porcupine73

That is true. Part of the confusion comes from their use in British. A couple of interesting links: one two

I went with the outback because it was more spacious than the forester which I guess is based on the impreza? The outback has a lot more room behind the rear seat. I guess maybe if you can make sure whatever you get doesn't have that potential HG issue would be a bonus?

As far as speed and power and price this Forester and WRX are somewhat closely matched; handling is probably a lot nicer in the WRX? I should probably have made this into a table... cars101.com: 2007 Forester XT Limited: horsepower rated at 224@5600 rpm, 226torque@3600, XT Limited turbo, manual trans, Ca spec, code 7FJ, list $27,895 (speed test - didn't see if for '07 but for '06 is was 2006 XT Ltd, 5spd manual, 0-60 5.9sec, 0-100 15.8sec, 1/4 mile14.3 sec @ 96mp), edit: EPA economy rating: Manual trans - 22 city / 29 highwa 2007 Impreza WRX Limited sedan (grey or beige leather), 230 hp @ 5600 rpm, 235 lb-ft @ 3600 rpm, manual trans, codes 7JE, 7JF, list $27,495, 0-30 1.9s, 0-60 5.6s, 0-100 15.0s, 1/4 mile 14.2 sec @ 97.4 mph edit: EPA city/hwy econ 20/26 mpg

If you're having someone put it in, make sure either you but the used AT from them or you get one with a warranty that includes labor for replacement if it doesn't work otherwise it could get ugly if you end up with a bum salvage AT. What's the transmission equivalent of a CCR engine?

Wow maybe it would have been shorter to list the codes you didn't get, just kidding :-p Has it been slipping or just not shifting right? Dude maybe you have some sort of wiring problem or the connectors is all corroded based on all these codes: Well it say (sorry for the caps it's cut&paste) (this is for '96 legacy AT) DTC P0710: TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (ATF) which will result in * No shift up to 4th speed (after engine warm-Lip) * No lock-up (after engine warm-up) * Excessive shift shock DTC P0740: TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SYSTEM MALFUNCTION (ATLU - F) check any other DTC's first DTC P0720: OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR (VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR 1) CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (ATVSP) which will result in No shift or excessive tight corner "braking" DTC P0748 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID (DUTY SOLENOID A) ELECTRICAL (ATPL) which will result in excessive shift shock dang you want me to keep going I'm getting tired...

On my suby's anyway the stock pressure device is a pressure switch not a pressure indicator. You can tee in an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into the same block port as the original pressure switch (located sort of underneath the alternator). The oil pressure switch port on Suby's is something like 1/8" british standard pipe taper (BSPT) which is close to national pipe taper (NPT) but off by a thread per inch and the thread angle is different, so what I"m trying to say is buy or get a set of adapters because the aftermarket unit will almost certainly be 1/8"npt. Then you just need a 1/8"npt tee and maybe a couple 1/8"npt street tees depending on how you do it. Autometer makes nice gauges and you can get them a summit for not much more than those sunpro's at the auto parts places. I like electrical gauge for oil pressure because if you have mechanical and that little vinyl breaks in the engine compartment, well you get the picture.

Some people have reported having this sort of shake when stopped in gear after replacing the axle half shafts.

Check this out:http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=5402

Renting a car might not be a bad option if a suitable vehicle can't be found quickly enough, but if it's a one way rental make sure s/he knows about any surcharges first, like some places will charge by the mile with no free miles on top of the regular rental fee plus potentially a one way surcharge on top of that.

If the existing exhaust is restrictive, a cat back system will still leave you with the existing thin pipes from the exhaust manifold to the cat. I'd see if I could find someone who used the setup you're planning on a sub to see how much gain they got.

It's not that 15hp wouldn't do anything, heck that's nearly a 10% gain, but rather that a 15hp gain probably isn't going to happen from just from a different exhaust or even headers. Would there be a gain? Probably, but maybe not that much. Ultimate hp isn't the only measure of engine power, it's the power band, I mean if the thing makes 165hp at 5500rpm but drops off rapidly at lower rpm a car with less ultimate hp but more power over a wider range could outpull. Maybe you drop in a 50 shot of nos or something, that's not super expensive and will give you a power boost.

If you want a bit of sport but still have some fuel economy maybe a new(er) turbo forester would be worth looking at. For sound systems, if you're not happy with OE, then depending on what you want you could just get something else put in at a stereo shop.

Hm, yah you could try banging a little bit around on the dash and such when that happens and see if that makes it come on. Sounds like an intermittent connection somewhere or maybe a little bad spot on the fan motor, like I don't know if those fan motors have brushes.

Well the newer turbo foresters are like 0-60 in 5 seconds or something crazy like that which is pretty darn quick. Now, there are various honda civics, like maybe you were up against this beast (4-door 2007 Civic Si Sedan):

Maybe that person did some mods to the Civic, I mean those are pretty popular ricers with lots of aftermarket performance items aren't they?

Yah that's way too much, I paid less than that for a '00OBW with less miles last year from a used car dealer. They might just know that you're kind of in a hurry and are hoping you'll bite. If they'll come down to like $5k or so that would be much better, just don't let them play any games with you with the trade and stuff like that. Now that '98 is that one of the years with the potential head gasket issues?

Wow that's great news and thanks for the pics! The new one looks so shiny and perty. Plus it came with a new axle nut so that's nice. Where'd you get those? So you must've not had much trouble getting off the old axle nut and I can't quite tell if those had the spring/roll pins holding the inner joint to the diff stub?

Hi brighton98 and welcome! I have a '96 brighton here. I don't know how much the 2.2 changed between our years, but mine (at least I think!?) has hydraulic lash adjusters so no adjustment is required. If you have solid or those shim type adjusters then they should be checked. The risk in not checking them is that if they become too tight, esp the exhaust, the valve(s) could get scorched if they don't close all the way so they can dissipate their heat into the valve seats. If they're too loose they could become noisy and you might loose a little power/economy. If you see an external filter that looks much like the engine oil filter on your ATF on the front driver's side, then you have the 4eat phase II; you can just change that filter if desired (it's a little pricey OE like $25). Otherwise, (if you have an H6 this filter on a 4eat phase II is in the fender), you probably have the 4eat phase I which does have a screen filter which I have replaced in the '96 brighton but wasn't dirty (it really only is a fine mesh screen), but the bonus is you have to take off a cooler line to get the filter out which then drains all like 9qts or whatever ATF rather than just the 4 or so you will get with the drain plug only.

I don't know if your bang will be gone after the flush. It seems to me I saw a TSB about a bit of a 'bang' when the AWD kicks in and it was some clutch or something engaging quickly, but I don't know if it applies to your year/model. I get a bit of a whine under certain conditions from my rear diff or something too ('00OBW). It seems to me a lot of hypoid type rear diffs get a whine with time that is unavoidable. I rode in a late model explorer once that I couldn't believe how loud that whine was on hills.

Hi 2000Outback! I have an '00OBW also. I would (and did!) replace the external ATF filter. It's a little pricey OEM, like $25 I think. It has the same thread diameter and pitch as the engine oil filter so I crammed an amsoil eao36 onto mine. I chopped open the OE ATF filter that was on there and it looked like a normal engine oil filter to me, except maybe it didn't have a bypass I don't remember so it might be more of a hydraulic filter. If the ATF hasn't been changed before and it has any normal mileage it wouldn't be the worst idea ever to change it. I'm using the amsoil synthetic atf and it shifts like a dream. You can do the 'pump and dump' method for changing ATF to get more of it out (because you'll only get like half with the drain plug while the rest remains in the torque converter and stuff). The diff oils are definitely due for a change if they've never been changed before (because if it's never been changed you've got all the break in metals in there and there ain't no filter for the gear oil, plus it may have sheared and if gotten hot oxidized). I put amsoil severe gear 75w140 in mine; seems to work great, a little heavy? maybe heavier at operating temperature but i don't care. This 4eat phase II atf does have an internal screen filter, but it's not listed as a replacement item and it doesn't need to be because the external filter is a great idea catching shavings and shreddings before they have a chance to plug up the atf cooler and lines. And be thankful for these luxuries like an atf drain plug, atf dipstick, and external filter - a lot of newer makes don't have any of these!

The materials in the radiator simply need to be adequately protected by the antifreeze/coolant. I think the Subaru OE coolant is very similar to the BASF G-05 coolant (licensed to Zerex and used as OE fill in Fords and some other makes), except the Subaru OE coolant may keep a little more base ph. Anyway, G-05 is supposed to be a very good protective formula, it's the best of both worlds from the traditional silicate (immediate corrosion protection) and H/OAT (ie dexcool) which forms a nice protective coating but takes a little while to form.

You don't have to go to the dealer; if you're even a moderate wrencher you can just yank one of the hoses to the in radiator tank ATF cooler, put some cheap vinyl hose from harbor freight on both ends (that way you don't have to know which is the outlet) and put them securely into a bucket or some other container. Then after putting in the new fluid, I add an extra quart, then pump out two quarts, then add two quarts, etc., until the fluid coming out looks fresh. It's a little more economical than doing several drain&fills as you'll have more fresh fluid in the AT using less fluid to get to that point. The, at least Subaru's I have, are awesome because most hose connections are just hose onto a barb, so there's no special fancy proprietary connectors to deal with there. AT's that have issues after a fluid change or flush are often poorly maintained or high mileage; sometimes things in the valve body or whatever wear and deposits build up, and then the flush and new fluid dislodge those deposits and then problems start. If it's on of those quick change flushes without changing the screen or external filter then the screen could become plugged. Most ATF's and oils contain anti-foamant, which I think is silicone.

I don't know that you would get a CEL if say the fan motor is bad or even disconnected? There is a matrix in the ECU that determines which fan(s) are on hi/low based on speed, engine temp, A/C compressor on. Usually they'll come on if the engine coolant temperature sensor (not the sensor for the temp gauge) detects 200 or 202 or something deg. F. or above. If that's working fine and it still overheats then for whatever reason the cooling system has exceeded it's maximum heat rejection capacity; that could be due to plugging, leaks, bad radiator cap, or any host of other issues.

Well it sounds like you've done your homework! I've got a '96 2.2L Brighton and I love it; the only thing I don't like is it's hard to roll down any window except the driver's when driving. Other than that there's not a whole lot of gadgetry to worry about breaking!

Maybe you can fit a Ron Davis in there, but I don't know if they make single row radiators.