porcupine73

Hi, good question..checked the invoice, start contact set 45296530, list $8.69, Internet price $5.31

Hi all, just an update on this issue. Just received the parts today from http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com. I ordered the gasket, bolts, springs, and nuts. Now to find time to put them in!

Just received a set of contacts for a '96 from Courtesy Subaru (http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com). There was no part # on the baggie they came in. Just posting this pic for reference.

Wow sounds like you're 3 for 3 on solving the problems which is a lot better than I usually end up with on my sub...

Hm...the '92 is fuel injected right? I think I looked at those units before and they weren't rated for fuel injection use (pressure too high) (though it might have been something else I was looking at). I ended up going with these Canton/Mecca Racing spin on fuel/water separators. SummitRacing has PermaCool filter mounts that will fit this thread. The filters have a repaceable filter element in 1 micron or 8 micron size. (The only issue is they told me for the 1 micron size it should be plumbed to flow inside out, but that doesn't work too well for the water separation.) Prior to that I had a PermaCool fuel/water separator installed, but the filters tended to leak. They said they were good for fuel injection use, but the hose that came with it was not fuel injection hose. I had to seal the bung with JBweld every time to prevent a leaky filter.

I guess I should check that out when I do the timing belt on my '96 legacy brighton next week. I wondered what lifters it had. Most manuals imply it has HLA's. I guess I should pull the valve covers during the job and check clearances.

The tool I'm talking about looks like the one on the right in this pic. You can get the actual Subaru tool from subaru.spx.com but it's like $70.

Yes many vehicles use clocksprings, including some OTR trucks.

Dude dig in deep and stop by your local harbor freight and for $20 you can get a chain wrench that is more than suitable for this task. I heard loctite suggested on the crank pulley bolt....what type? blue? red? I used blue I hope that's good enough!

Welcome! Yah I'd under that sweet ride and try to shake the drive shaft in all practicable directions. No play should be noted.

Coincidence. The only way it could hasten the blowing of the low beams would be to apply more voltage to them thus resulting in more current thus resulting in more heat. It doesn't seem feasible from a satellite radio.

Yep, did the thermostat have a gasket on it when you put it in? It's rubbery with a groove that slips around the edge of the thermostat. If this is missing or is in poor condition then it could leak.

The yellow top will hold up better to deep or total discharges. It may take longer to go dead from sitting than your current battery. However, it will still go dead if it is not getting sufficient recharge such as from the alternator or solar charger.

You don't have to totally drain the radiator, but if you don't drain the level down at least a little bit some coolant will leak out if you remove the sensor. Same with the IACV. The coolant temp sensor is a little bit of a pain to replace but not too bad if you have a good selection of tools.

Nothing special required for an Optima battery. Just tell Sears you want the biggest, meanest one they can cram in there. You might also consider the battery terminal quick disconnect so (if you are able) you can disconnect the battery when the vehicle will sit for long periods of time. The Optima red top is a starting battery; just like any other such battery if it goes dead or into deep drain often it will have a short lifetime. The Optima yellow top is a deep cycle battery. You can completely discharge this battery without having an adverse impact on it's lifetime. The Optima blue top (marine) is also deep cycle.

Wow well at least you weren't hurt too badly. Yes the car doesn't look so good. Can you keep it for parts if you're going to hunt down another suby?

Plus you can try it first on your practice engine before trying it where the money is.

As mentioned it could worn starter contacts. Next time it happens, try tapping the starter with a hammer. If the tapping works it may indicate worn contacts. Or sometimes when the starter sees the hammer it will be scared back into operation.

Hey that's a cool idea buying that engine. Maybe that leak is from the o-ring in the cam (retaining?) cap (from what i've seen in another post). At first I thought the leak was coming from the cam seal but I don't see any oil in the timing cover. I'm interested in knowing which seal/o-ring that is too as I'm about to do the t-belt on my '96 2.2 and it appears to be spraying a little oil in that exact same area.

The info about the TCU learning parameters there was from '96 Legacy (4eat phase I). I didn't yet find that same statement for '00OBW (4eat phase II). True, we need to know whether we need to source or sink current for the duty c. I suppose using a microcontroller in this application would have other advantages, such as to allow for future expansion and other functionality.

Alright thanks for the input 99obw! Do you know of any chips that can, with a minimum of external circuits, handle the variable duty cycle from 0-100%? Such a chip probably wouldn't handle the amount of current we need, so what would we use for current gain? Maybe on of those honking TO-3 case transistors? A FET? Based on an other post about the 'buzzing' sound I'm going to guess the frequency may be as low as 200Hz. Initially I thought it might be like 20kHz or about to prevent humans from hearing any sound from it. Probably not critical at this phase, but do we know if the power to rear is linear with the duty cycle? We know 0% duty cycle=50% power to rear, and 100% duty cycle = 0% power to rear. But does 50% duty cycle = 25% power to rear, or is this a non-linear relationship? Any other thoughts on making sure we don't drive the duty c if it isn't supposed to be driven at the time? Hm, I just found a caveat in the service manual. Operating this circuit under wheel slippage conditions could cause the TCU to learn odd torque parameters thus causing strange operation in the future when in 'auto'. It says For example, suppose the circuit is operating at a fixed duty cycle and rear wheel slippage occurs. Unless the shifter is in '1' or something, the TCU probably starts outputting a higher and higher duty cycle to reduce power to the rear to stop slippage. However the TCU's duty cycle action has no impact because the circuit is operating. Thus the TCU may learn an improper duty cycle value for the condition.

Oh is that what that buzzing noise is? I hear it on '00obw with key in run (but engine not running) and shifting the AT gear selector. Maybe since it's pumping no ATF at the time the sound is more audible.

hi jake, yes, for reverse lights it says 'back-up light' and 'turn signal' are fuse 1 in the panel under the dashboard (that's the top left fuse).

hi jake, yep sorry that was a little unclear, yes count left to right in the top row of fuses - sixth from the left. i saw another fuse or two for 'lighting relays' too so if that 6 fuse isn't bad it might be another fuse.

that's true, if they're brand new bulbs they should be fine. if the '97 is anything like my '96, fuse 6 (15A) in the fuse panel located under the dashboard is for the front fog lights. do you hear a relay click or anything when pressing the fog light button? fuse 6 is the sixth fuse from the upper left hand corner of the fuse panel.