porcupine73

Well, you could scour local yards to see if they have anything or could keep an eye out. These sorts or 'wrecked but repairable!' cars show up on eBay often, but if you can't pick it up the shipping could be rough. Plus it can be hard to tell the exactly the extent of damage from pictures.

I don't know how likely it is, but if the water pump to block bolts loosened it might start leaking around the gasket between the pump and block.

That's exactly what I do on my '00obw, works easily and, at least with mine's e-brake adjustment, is nowhere near enough to engage the e-brake. Although IFIRC it does make the 'brake' light illuminate. I use this method to avoid lighting up the neighbors house (my parents) with my headlights when pulling in the driveway at night.

Hello, P0xxx is a generic ODBII code. At least for '00obw (closest service manual i have listing that code) that means A/T DTC P0483 - COOLING FAN FUNCTION PROBLEM DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Occurrence of noise; Overheating Do the cooling fans seem to turn on at all? Do the funs cycle on and off if th A/C is on? Does the temp gauge seem to get any higher than the middle or so?

related thread. Doesn't appear to be worth it especially not at that price.

Good work! Is the oil leak coming from one of the front cam seals or the front crank seal (on the oil pump)? The 2.2L I think a cam cap o-ring on each side that can sometimes cause issues? Are you planning to replace the timing belt cover that was dremeled off or are you just going to run free and breezy?

The manual spec for a '96 2.2L is 79.6 +7.2 -3.6 ft*lbs(f). Obviously you don't want the bolt to come loose because then bad things happen. I went about 140ft*lbs(f) on my '00 2.5L with the blue loctite (thanks to ericem's suggestion that's why I did it), but it has a higher spec torque anyway (130.2+/-3.6 ft-lb) and a pretightening sequence procedure.

Below are a couple pics out of an article from EndWrench.com (free article has the whole t-belt procedure). If you are one tooth off it will still start. The article says two teeth off it will not start. If you are a full revolution off on the crank sprocket (360 degrees) that would not be an issue because that is one full revolution (pistons still in same position). Sorry these pics are so big it's copy and paste from acrobat.

I've heard of people doing car tires with the motorcycle/garden tractor tire tools from Harbor Freight. But of course that requires about $50 cash outlay. It is possible to damage the tire bead while R&R'ing.

I'm pretty sure you can leave it in valet mode all the time. I inadvertently had mine in valet for a whole year. I think you just press unlock while a door is open to go into or out of valet mode.

Is it one of the fasteners that holds the IACV in place, or is it one that actually holds it together? Can you get vise grips on the fastener or did it break off down in the hole?

Yes, unless it has the dohc the plug change interval is 30k or 30 months. I'm not sure as I haven't experienced this issue. It seems I remember some similiar issues in other posts having something to do with the MAF. The knock sensor sometimes has a tendancy to crack or go weird with age on these things though I don't know it would cause what you're experiencing. Engine coolant temp sensor is another thing seen frequently but that usually causes hard starting.

Dirty MAF or plugs/wires maybe? This 2.5L may be one of the potential head gasket issue ones so be aware of that going in.

Hm, could it be fluid draining back into the pan? The '00obw has a TSB for slow/rpm flare up on first 2/3 upshift. I notice it after a cold night. But other than that not sure...'96 Legacy tends to have a harsh 1/2 upshift when cold.

I'm not sure; it's just what I've read in other posts. My guess would be the the shafts kind of oscillate. There's torque applied to them but they're not turning so maybe they vibrate or something.

I've seen in other threads people saying they got this kind of vibration after having the half shafts replaced.

Did you have any half shafts/cv joints replaced or serviced recently?

Yes even basic scan tools should be able to reset the MIL/CEL. But optimally you want to read the code(s) first so you'll know why the light is on.

Haven't had this issue on Subaru but did on old '88 lincoln many times. Could be ice, rust, greasy gunky buildup, poor return spring on throttle body, etc.

Maybe the contacts are getting worn out.

Yes same thing happens on my '96 too. I think water gets on/in something near the cable thingy on the AT and then freezes. Spraying silicone in that area seems to help usually. Yes I can get it out of park with key in run, engine off, step on brake, solenoid clicks, then can pull out of park with engine not running.

Do you have the dohc or the sohc?

Hi gofargogo! 1. Did you give her some gas to see if the front started turning? Are you sure maybe the passenger side front wheel wasn't spinning too but just didn't notice? Unless you have a locking rear diff it is entirely possible for one rear tire to spin and the other rear tire to just sit there. 2. I'd have to look up that code, but typically for front o2 sensors OEM is highly suggested. 3. The front sway bar hasn't busted has it? Not sure what your options are for stiffer clearance, other than KYB GR-2's maybe. Higher clearance would mean lift kit or maybe lift springs such as king springs from australia.

I haven't dealt with autopart.com, but generally OEM is suggested at least for the front o2 sensor. I have an '00obw and it's a 6 pin connector, apparantly because it's a wideband o2 sensor. Sometimes the '00 front o2 sensor OEM isn't horid $$ because they needed a lot for recall replacements.

Well without proper fluid it won't last a long time since there will be metal on metal contact. If the washer was missing, then either it was missing from the factory, or someone didn't put on a new washer after removing the drain plug.