porcupine73

Yes that's the way I do it. Reason being at least in NY on 10 year old soobs, the ball joint pinch bolts are not coming out easily. If I ever need to remove them they will probably snap. If you mark the eccentric bolt and reinstall to the same position your camber will be close, probalby within 10' of what it was orignally. I say close beacuse there is some play tehre and it depends when the nut was tightened if the suspension was loaded or unloaded.

Hm not sure I haven't done it with the bar in place; usually upgrading endlinks at the same time. I think you could do it without disconnecting the endlinks. The bushings just pop onto the bar. Subaru says any stabilizer mounting hardware should be torqued only with the vehicle on the ground (i.e. weight on suspension as normla).

notches The notches are for timing. The arrows are for piston position.

My guess in that soob is that you'd be fine with an ATF that meets the specs formerly known as dexron III. Subaru has said the Idemitsu ATF can be used in earlier soos calling for dexron III, and GM is not renewing licenses for dexron III blenders anymore. The Idemtisu HP ATF is needed for the 5EAT's, and since GM isn't renewing dexron licenses for the other soob autos now as well. There was some fluid someone found at wally world that seeme dot meet th especs and work. Otherwise you pretty much need to use the Subaru Idemistu fluid from a dealer, which is about $6-7/qt online.

hehe Neo Synthetics HP800 wheel bearing grease. I like it for brake caliper slider pins. I usually get it here http://www.stockcarproducts.com/wheelbrg.htm Many like http://www.bakerprecision.com but those guys never filled my order and did not return my several phone calls or e-mails.

Heet or any drygas is typically either methanol (heet yellow botle) or isopropyl alcohol (heet red bottle). I'm not 100% confident in these octanes, but here is roughly what I've found: Noting of course toluene and xylene are already in gasoline potentially significant amounts: Toluene/toluol (R+M)/2...114 Xylene/xylol (R+M)/2...117 Methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether (MTBE) (R+M)/2...118 [this is the stuff NY and others have outlawd because of ground water contamination issues, usuig ethanol instead now] Methanol or Ethanol (R+M)/2...101 Isopropyl Alcohol and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol (R+M)/2...101

Neo HP800

Is it a manual trans?

Also if you financed your vehicle they can tell you just got a vehicle loan by looking at your credit report. For a soft inquiry they might not know the details but I would imagine those co's can tell trw etc 'we want to rent a mailing list with people who got a car loan within the last 30 days'.

Be very careful when loosening the ball joint pinch bolt. It is not uncommon for those to snap off when working on an older soob esp one driven in this rust belt area. If it hasn't been removed before, the bolt will likely be pretty well siezed in there.

hehe, yes that's my penetrating oil mix. I haven't tried it yet but it does stink, and it ate out the plastic in my harbor freight diy spray can. The only ones I've tried in teh gasoline are the toluene, xylene, and acetone. Toluene and xylene would worry me the least, since toluene is already a constituent of gasoline at up to about 35% v/v and xylene at up to about 15% by weight. I think both their (R+M)/2 octanes are above 100 but I'd have to check it somewhere.

Hi. Yes you have HLA's in that engine. I think Subaru says you have to run at 'high idle' for 30 minutes or maybe it's an hour to make that noise go away (reprime lifters). Or you can pull the lifters and prime each one but that's a pita. I have a '94 legacy too, not the best in body shape, but man that thing is pretty quick. I love how she sounds when she's winding out around 6200 rpm.

If you have trouble finding toluene in your area, try Ace Hardware (sometimes it is listed as toluol and xylene as xylol). In my area anyway, home despot doesn't sell toluene because of its use in certain, erm, shall we say, cottage industries. Here's a pic from my home brew penetrating oil formula:

Yes sounds like maybe just a lifter losing prime. Some people have reported that running some MMO (marvel mystery oil) has helped with this issue. Otherwise if it starts doing it more often you'd have to pull the valve covers and figure out which lifter(s) are bad....

I can't find the article off hand, but I'm pretty sure it said to check F27 7&8 in this diagram for looseness/bad connection/ground: OB99W mentioned the ignitor, have you checked that?

Oh spark! OH SPARK! ok, I think I saw an article on endwrench about some certain ground wires to check that might back out or get loose resulting in weak or lost spark.....now where was that....

Hi! I have a '96 Legacy Brighton too. Man I love that car! That sounds like torque bind. All tires must match within 1/4" circumference or this binding can occur. It can also be caused from running on a soft tire too long, getting a flat and replacing only one tire while the rest have worn tread, improper towing, etc. So make sure all tires match and measure the tire circumference. If that is good, change the ATF a few times, sometimes that will help. If it still does it, you might try some limited slip differential additive to free up the transfer clutch a little bit. Some Lubegard black might also work. Did you ever happen to replace either front axle due to torn axle boots, etc? Flush ATF.

Maybe some xylene and toluene. These are still more expensive than gasoline ($5-15 gallon depending on where you get it). Most octane boosters don't boost the octane a whole lot. They will say 'boosts 5 points!'. Well that means increasing 89 octane to 89.5 octane when added to the stated amount of gasoline (i.e. maybe 10 gallons for a bottle). These are (R+M)/2; other countries that boast about 'the lowest we get here is 95 octane' is typicall the research octane only, which isn't the same rating as the U.S. method of the average or research and motor octane.

Hi. Yes the common causes of the knock sensor codes are the knock sensor itself (some of the earlier styles liked to crack, like the one in the pic below). Another issues is if the mating surface between the block and the knock sensor is dirty/corroded, or if the moutning bolt is too loose. The knock sensor code usuaally P0325 I think it is never means the ECU is detecting knock. It means the ECU has detected an electrical issue with the knock sensor circuit. Then the ECU retards timing to the max as a failsafe to protect the engine, which results in poor fuel economy and lost engine power. Any of the typical Subaru dealers selling parts online can hook you up with a new knock sensor if that is the issue. ie http://www.subarupartsforyou.com http://www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com http://www.subaruparts.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com etc (This is the older pigtail style knock sensor, the newer ones have a different connector right on the knock sensor itself).

Odyssey

Well, not sure if this helps but since many common things seem to be covered already (article from endwrench): Legacy and Impreza Engines with No Injection Pulse #1 Cylinder Built into the fuel injection control unit is logic that will shut off the #1 injector if the computer believes that it can no longer control the Idle Air Control valve. Remember this while trying to diagnose a “hard” code for the Idle Air Control Valve or a dead miss in number one cylinder due to no injection at idle. A problem in the Idle Air Control valve circuit can be responsible. (Component testing shows that it is usually not the valve itself.) Another unusual computer response is if the computer is deprived of its “back up power supply.” If deprived of this power, some computers will generate a false code for the Idle Air Control valve and kill the injector for cylinder #1. The pin location of this power supply can be found in the Control Unit Module I/O Signal pages of the appropriate service manual. 1 End Wrench The insider info.

Yes P0nnn codes are the generic ODBII codes, P1nnn and P2nnn codes are manufacturer/model specific. Let's see, endwrench has a note about P1507.... here: Diagnostic Trouble Code P1507 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf Hm....seems this note applies only for manual trans: "If you are diagnosing a manual transmission equipped vehicle with a DTC P1507 and can find nothing wrong after following the trouble tree in the appropriate service manual, inspect the Neutral Switch Circuit before replacing any parts. The Neutral Switch Circuit may cause this code to set. This could falsely indicate to the ECM that the transmission is in neutral when, in fact, it is actually in gear. This can cause the MIL to illuminate and set Code P1507. Keep in mind that the problem can be intermittent and it may be necessary to pin test the connection and to shift into and out of Neutral many times before the switch shows any problems."

Oh yes, actually I meant cam sprockets but typed crank sprockets, though that one has an arrow too.

Oh and to the board!

If it ran before the water pump work, and any wiring/sensors that may have been disconnected during the work have been reconnected, then the timing being off is a good possibility I would think. Generally two or more teeth off and it will not start. He may have used the arrows on the crank sprockets rather than the hash marks, that would definitely make it a no start. Fortunately that engine is non-interference. Also I am assuming by no start, you mean it does crank whir whir whir whir but won't start. Check out : http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf