porcupine73

Booster check: Start engine, and run it for 1 to 2 minutes, then turn it off. Depress brake pedal several times applying the same pedal force as that used in ordinary braking operations. The pedal stroke should be greatest on the 1st depression, and it should become smaller with each successive depression. If no change occurs in the pedal height while in a depressed state, brake booster is faulty. In the event of defective operation, inspect the condition of the check valve and vacuum hose. Replace them if faulty and conduct the test again. If no improvement is observed, check precisely with gauges. 3. OPERATION CHECK 1) With engine off, depress brake pedal several times applying the same pedal force and make sure that the pedal height does not vary with each depression of the pedal. 2) With brake pedal depressed, start engine. 3) As engine starts, brake pedal should move slightly toward the floor. If no change occurs in the pedal height, brake booster is faulty. If faulty, check precisely with gauges. 4. LOADED AIR TIGHTNESS CHECK Depress brake pedal while engine is running, and turn off engine while the pedal is still depressed. Keep the pedal depressed for 30 seconds. If no change occurs in the pedal height, brake booster is functioning normally. If the pedal height increases, it is faulty.

Replacing rotors is not overly difficult, especially if you are not reusing the old ones (then you can sledge the old ones off if needed). The biggest hassle I have found on my rusty salt belt soobs is getting the caliper bracket bolts out, especially if they haven't been removed in a couple years. Next hassle can be getting the old rotor off, BUT if you are lucky enough that the rotors you have on there have the two little threaded bolt holes, that makes it much easier to drive the rotors off the hub. Also yes, replacing (esp if the rotors are like you say $28 ea or so) is a much better idea than resurfacing. Resurfacing/turning removes rotor mass which means the rotors will get hotter than they did previously during the same stops.

Hm maybe another thing to check is the ATF temp sensor. If it thinks the ATF is cold it won't shift into fourth much less lockup to TC.

Wow that sounds cool. I have a stock 2.5L sohc in '00 outback wagon.......unfortunately I am 2610 miles from Pacific Import Auto.....

Yes that doesn't really sound too safe to drive in that condition. Is the brake fluid reservoir low? If so the system will also need to be bled because it must've gotten low enough to let air into the system. Do the brake booster check. You might have a corroded brake line, burst or collapsed brake flex hose, siezed caliper, etc. The burned rubbery smell, maybe look at your cv joint boots esp the front right inner.

I have no idea of the quality of these units, but here's a place that sells some claimed high output soob alts. http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hioual.html Particularly : http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou195ampsu.html 180 amps of power for all of your accessories ! Stock alternators are rated at only 85 amps. This unit puts out 65 amps at idle. All performance alternators have a 1 year warranty. A prepaid return label comes with your order to easily return your core for the $60.00. This high output alternator replaces original equipment #'s : LR185-701, LR185-701H, 23700-AA210, 23700-AA210F, LR185-702, 23700-AA211, 23700-AA211F, 23700-AA34A I'm guessing they rebuild an existing alt since it says 'This is engineered by order only will not ship for 7 business days'.

Mount a small gasoline powered generator to the roof racks!

I had a good web site for that....I'll have to look, maybe I have it bookmarked. I saw some on craigslist before that claimed to be 140amp alternators for Subaru...had no other details though. Why do you need such a high output? If you could do without a/c you might be able to yank that compressor and mount in some additional, second aftermarket alt such as a wrangler with a separate battery for your high load devices.

Yes you might be able to wire in your own lock up switch and maybe replace the TCU's connection to the lockup duty solenoid with a resistor so it doesn't see anything awry. It might still throw a code because it is comparing the input turbine speed with the output as it applies the lockup clutch (it doesn't just go lockup off to lockup on, it applies it like the rest of the solenoids, by increasing the duty cycle from 5% to 95%. Otherwise it would be very choppy and noticeable.

Yes that's how mine feels too. After a hill climb I'm just starting to think hm is thing going shift back to 4th or not? Then it does. When I say 'normal' I mean functioning as intended, not whether or not it seems correct. Also if your other soobs were earlier than '99, they would have had the 4eat phase I, which is a bit different and doesn't have the hill descent stuff, etc. On the hill descent, it will shift down to 3rd if you even touch the brake. Then if you are touching the gas even slightly like your foot just even resting on it, it will shift back to 4th. Maybe that is what is happening in that case.

Hi. If all other shifting seems fine, like it just seems like it is staying in 3rd for a while after the hill climb, and then shifts to fourth normally, I'd say that is normal. I have an '00obw which has an early 4EAT phase II like your '99, and it does that same thing after a fast steep hill climb. Do you notice any abnormal delay when shifting from park or reverse to drive right after startup?

In addition to possible vacuum leak, an easy thing to try is clean your IACV. There's a good article on endwrench about how to do it. Basically get the airbox off and spray throttle body cleaner up at the IACV intake in short bursts. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Yes mcmaster has that style too on pg 249. They call them "Type 430 Stainless Steel Nonperforated Worm-Drive Hose and Tube Clamps" - 'Also known as smooth band clamps, these have a nonperforated band with rolled edges to prevent damage to hose and tube.' They also have somethign similar that looks interesting: "Lined Worm-Drive Hose and Tube Clamps" - 'An extended band acts as a liner to protect soft hose and tube from being cut by slots in the band.'

Yes I like the flywheel block method. Not sure if this access hole exists on all soob engines, but it does on the 2.2L. Just cram something down in there. Can't quite get at the flywheel teeth in this hole per se, but there are holes there that you can get something into. I used small prybar. Just be careful as it likes to press hard on the tps, wouldn't want to crack it or anything. Crank sprocket hold method i used on '00obw with $20 harbor freight chain wrench. Nice chain wrench for $20, the only one I could find locally actually that was big enough to wrap around hte crank pulley.

Wow nice assortment! Yes I get a lot of the worm drive type hose clamps from mcmaster, and they always come as the Breeze brand mentioned (though mcmaster does not state the brand on the site). Hm that's interesting I just looked at the prices for the oem style hose clamps on mcmaster and they are like $6 ea too. Plus they might be way too big even in the smallest size.

I haven't seen the radiator wire clamps elsewhere but I think mcmaster.com might sell them. Let's see, look like pg 255 in their catalog and they call them 'Heavy Duty Large-Diameter Twin-Ring Hose Clamps' The fuel injection hose clamps I have seen at napa etc though of course the soob clamps might be metric sized. I saw on endwrench they say to put the radiator hose clamps as near to the hose bib as possible, to prevent coolant from getting trapped between the bib and where the clamp is, which can cause hose degredation. Mcmaster also has the other ones I've seen on soobs 'Constant-Tension Spring Hose and Tube Clamps' and 'Wide-Band Self-Tightening Spring Hose and Tube Clamps'

Well timing belt for one. Other sensors as soobs age seem to be engine coolant temp sensor, cam position sensor, crank position sensor; these don't always cause no run I guess but sometimes starting issues as they get tempermental. If you can put together a kit of such parts and maybe an alternator and starter from junk yard parts to carry as spares sometimes that can work.

I think a lot of it depends on how tight the bolt is in there. On my '00obw I used a chain wrench to hold the pulley and a breaker bar with 3' pipe on it and really lay into it to get it loose. On my '96 I just blocked the flywheel with a small pry bar through the access hole near the throttle body and it backed right off with little effort (which means it was probably loosening up or wasn't torqued enough the previous time it was off). I haven't had much luck with strap wrenches, they just seem to have way too much stretch to them for the crank pulley and cam sprockets.

If you have a MAF, you may have to unplug it to get it to idle with the IACV intake hose unhooked.

Welcome! Generally for the soob the flashing cel is when cylinder misfire is detected, then it stays on steady. There are other things that can make the cel flash. You could also have multiple codes stored, so yes reading the codes would be a good idea. The misfire can be valve issues (ie not closing completely or carboned up really bad), non ngk spark plugs, plug wire issues, sometimes coil pack, injector, once in a while ignitor, etc.

I'm sure the tool can be homemade if you have the tools, like a good press brake and welder would be useful. Special Tool 499977000 http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499977000

If you specifically want the special tool for holding the crank pulley, you can get it from subaru.spx.com IIRC it is about $100. You don't have to have that tool though; there are many other options.

Yes that o-ring is fairly straightforward replacement. You don't need any other sealant there, just the o-ring. Also there is the cam cap at the RH rear of the engine as well that takes another of the same o-rings.