porcupine73

Does the fuel pump get power when it won't restart? Seems there have been a couple posts for that era where ht eoutput transistor in the ECU that drives the fuel pump relay burns out and cuases that issue?

I think this was it: Loyale And Legacy HLA Noise http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LoyalInfo.pdf Should you encounter a Legacy or an Impreza with noisy hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA) which do not pressurize during normal running, the cause may be a partially blocked oil passage in the rocker shaft. Also, Loyale vehicles, especially those with higher mileage, may have an oil flow problem due to the oil pump. When checking oil pressure, it may be within specifications but the volume of oil may not be sufficient. In this case, it is recommended the oil pump be replaced.

I'm guessing you have those big honking HLA's then. If they're the same style they should be swappable. I think there is a special tool that is supposed to make getting them out easier? Some people have said marvel mystery oil MMO has helped free up stuck hla's. I think there is a note on endwrench about some oil passage that can get blocked and cause ticking hla's.....i can have a look see if i can find it.

Maybe in your case a resistor would be something to use for troubleshooting to see if the code stays off then. Maybe there is an issue in the upstream wiring for the knock sensor. I thought you were saying the haynes manual says there should not be continuity between the knock sensor and ground. 500 kiloohms resistance is not continuity. Continuity would usually be may a couple ohms or less, like when measuring the resistance of a piece of wire.

hehe yep out with the old knock sensor, in with the good resistor. I meant to use 560k but accidentally used a 470k but it seems to work ok.

Hm....did you notice if the oil pressure light stayed on for a few seconds after startup? Or wait you have that jdm gauge set right did the pressure take exceptionally long to build up? Maybe the adbv got stuck open a little or let oil leak back out while it was shut down, then it took a few seconds to kind of reprime the system? Or maybe the oil filter doesn't have an adbv, I think certain soob oil filters didn't have one?

No, the code is purely an electrical issue. It never means the ECU thinks it is detecting knock. However yes gasoline oxidizes and gets stale over time esp in hot weather so generally if gasoline is not going to be used within a couple months using a stabilizer is a good idea. Generally when it says 'continuity' it means no or very low resisatnce like a few ohms. Dratted cracked knock sensor pic Gary mentioned:

Did you count the turns of the old outer tie rod end onto new tie rod end and try to duplicate that on the new ones? That usually gets it close to start. When I did mine even counting the turns the left front toe out was out by nearly 1/2" when I was done. I used the strings alignment method to do the adjustment, it can be pretty accurate if you take your time and actually probably doesn't take much longer than sitting in the waiting room at a shop. Using white out, with the steering wheel centered, I put a little hash mark at the top of the steering wheel to the plastic cover thing behind it so I can put the wheel at exactly that spot each time. getting the string lined up

Oh sorry about that. Yes that happened to me too. I believe this page might have the part you seek: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Cargo+Curtain%2C+Hardware&year=1998

Never heard of any 'recalibrate' for a soob ECU. Maybe the newest model vehicles would need something like that. Could be some other makes that do require it so the seller makes that generic statement to cover themselves. Also saw this note, it says for '95s but heck it could be worth a shot: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995SubaruInfo.pdf 1995 Subaru Legacy - DTC P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction If you encounter a 1995 Subaru Legacy with a DTC P0505 (Idle Control System Malfunction), check to see that the wire pins in connector B22 are securely fastened in the connector. If pin 13 (BY) has backed out of the connector, you will lose two grounds at the ECU. Actually I think I remember some time back someone having this issue on a '96 and we looked up some diagrams and stuff.... here's what I have

Are you sure it broke off? Some of them had a little screw that held it in and the screw would come out over time.

For North America Subaru says on their site they will send a manual if they have one. Not sure about Kenya. You could get the NA manual in PDF format by registering at my.subaru.com but of course things may be different for your region's vehicle.

All my soobs get the stiff shifter if they sit for more a couple weeks. Solution I use is spray the linkage on the RH/passenger side of the trans with Kroil and that frees it right up. I assume it is something rusting up in there maybe.

Nope, no idea, but there are ones listed in inventory at dealers nationwide so they do exist.

Well this is a dilly of a pickle

Hm...in this article http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf it says (I think this is talking about the roller bearings that replaced the ball bearing style for Impreza and Forester though). "The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box."

haha I think it was like 114mph or something like that, a little faster in one direction than the other. They did a lot of stuff like replace the gear oil with ATF to reduce losses, etc. The full story is somewhere on Subaru's site in the 'in the attic' column.

Thanks grossgary. Yes I always put in a fresh bottle of the glop with the coolant changes. I do see a slight bit of wetness at the firewall side of both headgaskets but no actual dripping. Right on any engine can get that pesky exhaust blowing into coolant HG failure but it is not the typical failure mode for this phase II 2.5L.

I think it is time to try the adjustment. The vehicle just threw a P1101 yesteday. DTC P1101 - NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault TROUBLE SYMPTOM: Erroneous idling I note now that when putting it in neutral or drive, I have to push foward slightly on the shift lever, otherwise the P or N is not lit up on the dash. I"m guessing this is what upset the ECU.

Thanks for the help. Well finally got a round 'tuit of replacing the radiator. It's nice that Subaru's are pretty straightfoward to work on. I installed a new OEM Subaru radiator. It seems to have solved the problem.....I hope! An intersting thing I noted is that the front of the old radiator had a lot of what looked like dust mixed with grease on it, covering probably a good 50% of the surface area. This could not be seen trying to look in between the a/c condensor and the radiator. I have some pics but haven't gotten them saved off the camera yet. The engine coolant temp now stays lower longer in stop and go traffic with the new clean radiator in there.

Nice little Justy. I always have a soft spot for the Justy, especially the salt flast land speed record holder for 1.0 Production class

Not sure if this helps but here's a couple pics from my jobs. Hm I forgot to put the part # on this one but this is the earlier style tensioner

I put a tach in my '96 brighton. I just removed the gauge cluster, traced the wire back from where the tach would normally be to the connector, and tapped that wire for the signal to the tach and it worked great. I can't remember the wire color....seems like it was green with blue stripe or blue with green stripe maybe. The other place to tap pretty easily would be at the ignitor or coil. However since soob sparks to plugs at the same time, not sure if the tach might read double actual rpm or something? I imagine connecting to 1, 2, 5, or 6 on the ignitor or to 1 or 3 on the coil might work?

I kind of suspect it is a oat/dexcool type coolant just based on the long service life claimed. If it is oat/dexcool type that is intesting since previously Subaru said on endwrench not to use that type of coolant in soobs. Trying to determine the new super coolant type is difficult since the ingredients are 'trade secret', as opposed to the older soob coolant. new super coolant (thanks to Joe at cars101.com): old Subaru coolant:

techinfo.subaru.com is top notch; it has all the official service info, TSB's, and other stuff right from Subaru. If you have ever seen the printed Subaru shop manuals, this is the same info in PDF format. You can generally buy the service manuals for a particular year/model soob on CD for $199 from that site. Or if you do the 3 day subscription over a weekend or something you can download the portions you are interested in. Note they limit your number of files per hour.