porcupine73

Do you mean the pic of the 2000 Outback? That's the IACV as it is shown. That engine at least with auto trans does not have EGR. Here's a pic of the IACV intake on the 2000 Outback with the air filter and filter housing removed. It's the small hole at the top in front of the throttle plate:

haha well that was only a few weeks after strut replacement when the boot gave way. Those struts are now a couple years old and have lots more rust on them, more like runny staining type rust color. I like the MWE axles also, have not seen people complain about those not working, or vibrating or exploding, or other such issues. I just ordered a couple more for the soobs. I have also tried the Subaru genuine reman which worked fine but at nearly twice the price of the MWE's. There might be others that work well too but with so many posts about issues it's hard to keep all the types and sources straight. In my last quote from MWE, he showed the axles are available with a 'new cv joint' for $20 extra. Any thoughts on that?

Just mark it like this (the red)

For the traditional cable throttle soobs (before drive by wire), the IACV was in this position before about '99-00: Then around 99-00 Subaru switched to speed density based setup (cheaper) and did away with the MAF and the IACV is here. This is the setup the endwrench article talks about. Then what in '05 it went to drive by wire so there is no separate idle air control anymore; it simply controls the throttle butterfly for the idle. I don't know, I do not remove the IACV's just because of the gasket issuse etc. I let them aspirate some throttle body cleaner and that has been working ok for me, maybe not as thorough as removing to clean it though.

It is the huge black thing that the master cylinder goes into. There is a test you can do for the booster that involves about three steps to help tell if it is faulty. There's several other huge black things under the hood. Just make sure one isn't a racoon before starting the engine.

It probably is rust. Just a little rust in there will make it almost impossible to get out. Don't pound too hard or you can damage the wheel bearings. I just kept putting penetrating oil on mine and it eventually let out.

Hm yah I don't know how you are getting those pinch bolts loose then. I live in the rust belt too and all my soobs the pinch bolt is pretty much just rusted right as a unit to the bearing housing. I tried penetrating oil, heat, etc and they would not budge so I stopped before they snapped. If I do ever have to replace the ball joint I am going to have to drill them out.

That could be any number of things, worn brake pads/rotors/drums, brakes contaminated with oil or grease on the friction surfaces, faulty brake booster, sticky calipers, etc.

Soobs back into the mid 90's and maybe earlier have the fuel vapor recovery. It just depends if you have the older style with the canister under the hood, or the later enhanced evap setup with the canister underneath by the tank. Anyway the evap smoke test machine is probably going to be the easiest way to find the source of the leak. Here's a pic of those portals with access to the lines: I have been noticing a fuel disappearing problem in my soobs too, it seems to lose a couple gallons during the trip to work and home.

You can see all the little lines and stuff under there from under the car. The specifics vary if you have the evap canister under the hood or if it is under the vehicle near the tank. If you can't find the leak a shop with an evap test smoke machine should be able to find it. This is a pretty good article about some of the plumbing in there: Evaporative System Diagnosis http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EvapSpring04.pdf

Crank seal I do when the oil pump is off. For cam seals not on a removeable cap, I found this Lisle puller was actually quite helpful:

Hm, well often the fuel filler necks rust out so it might be coming from there. But there are also many other little lines and stuff under there for evaporative emissions so maybe something is rusted out with those.

Maybe doesn't need an alignment for toe, but you still might want to check and set the camber after replacement just like you would if replacing the fronts.

Not sure if this is accurate, but [thread=14986]this thread says[/thread] 5 speed manual, AWD, fits 90-94 Legacy. Part number TY752VA2AA, Hollander interchange number 400-59681. 4.111 final drive.

Check this out, says it's for '95 but might still be applicable: 1995 Subaru Legacy - DTC P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunctionhttp://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/1995SubaruInfo.pdf 1995 Subaru Legacy - DTC P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction If you encounter a 1995 Subaru Legacy with a DTC P0505 (Idle Control System Malfunction), check to see that the wire pins in connector B22 are securely fastened in the connector. If pin 13 (BY) has backed out of the connector, you will lose two grounds at the ECU.

Well it is sort of under the intake manifold.....wayyyy under hehe.

Or if you still can't find it, it might have fallen out. sometimes they get pretty loose if they'r the push in ones and the o-ring shrinks. It's the yellow handled thing in this pic for example

You could compare the part #'s at a site such as http://opposedforces.com

Single row and double row are types of ball bearing setups. Single row has just that, one row of ball bearings. Double uses two rows for more load carrying capability. Subaru used to have a pulley with a single row on the top and a double row for the bottom pulley, but the single row bearing pulley was later superceded by the double row and the double row is now used in both positions. The single row bearing pulley cannot handle the load long term if used in the spot where the double row bearing pulley is required. Like in this pic, the black pulley top left has two rows of ball bearings. The orange one lower left has just one row. examples http://www.kilianbearings.com/single-row-ball-bearings.shtml http://www.kilianbearings.com/double-row-ball-bearings.shtml

I know now Subaru ships the double row for both positions. I was just wondering about the ones in that pic it's hard to tell they look like they might be both single row?

Hm...interesting. Those two smooth pullies, are they identical?

I've been using this setup, seems to work well. On the Outbacks don't even have to jack it up or put it on ramps, just crawl under there and beat the plugs out.

Right usually differentials with the hypoid type gears require a GL-5 fluid. It just means it has extreme pressure additives such as sulfur based stuff to prevent wear on the gears which are usually pretty heavily loaded with the hypoid style setup.

There was also what seems to be a bad batch on 2000 Outback wagons. There are a number of posts out on the boards for them about this breaking. It's not very hard to replace, even the new genuine bar is only about $100, and if it does break it doesn't leave you stranded so I wouldn't be overly worried about it.

They get ATF for the fluid. Maybe your belt is slipping or the bearings are now messed up.