porcupine73

140 psi seems low, soobs usually put out like a good 180 psi. Was that a wet compression test throttle blocked open? Timing could be off too I suppose.

Personally I would go with the genuine o-rings from Subaru. Only for this reason, I had my injectors serviced by Witch Hunter some years back, and on some of the injectors I used the o-rings WH sent, and on some I used new genuine rings. They looked the same to me, but the o-rings sent by WH leaked air and I had a sucking sound around those injectors. If your local dealer is ripping you off find a Subaru dealer selling parts online.

Consumers probably don't want to pay for such an elaborate AWD setup. Many AWD auto makers have similar requirements to Subaru's 1/4" circumference rule. Tirerack has a pretty good list. I don't know, I figure you pay to play. How often do you really get an unrepairable flat tire. I've had maybe three in my lifetime. One a couple months ago and yes I did have to get four new tires but hey what are you going to do.

As long as the tread depth wear on the tire is even measuring the tread depth should work. Measuring the circumference gives a more accurate indication but is easiest if the wheel is off the ground.

All tires ideally should match within 1/4" circumference at most. Get the same brand and model replacement tire. If the new tire doesn't meet the 1/4" requirement or is even close to it, look for someplace like a race shop that will shave the tire down for you. If it doesn't meet specs and it is an AT run the FWD fuse until that is done.

Yah I wouldn't pull the block plugs just to change coolant. But right on they're 14mm hex. They are usually pretty hard to get out. For doing coolant heaters I usually use an impact wrench on them and even then it takes some beating to get those buggers out.

I think they can fail so that they simply won't hold prime. Also turning the crank too much while doing the timing belt supposedly can make them bleed down. Some notes on endwrench imply that after the engine idles for like a half hour or somethign they would reprime themselves. I haven't had any issues with them on my '96 2.2L but it only has about 125k miles.

Yah that part # 22690AA45C is a rear o2 sensor. The sourcing site incorrectly lists it as being for both front and rear for the H6.

it wasn't a bad scratch but you know drill bits a mind of their own when close to a nice smooth surface they just can't resist but be attracted to it. I polished off the scratch as best I could hopefully it won't eat up the seal lip. Can you tell a little more about the napa green goop, I want to pick some of that up.

It would give you a little extra height. The cv's seem to be able to tolerate the bit of extra angle just fine. I mean the Outback's tolerate the angle though they do also have that body spacer. What year legacy are you doing this on? Basically '96-'99 (mcpherson) should be compatible, and then '00 to maybe '04 (that is rear multilink).

Yes I have tried the drill and screws method and scratched the cam that way.

Interesting video. I wish I could get the soob seals to come out that easily. I always have to wrestle with them even with that tool switching sides a couple times etc to get them to come out, especially when they've been in there for 10 years.

Yes I like that tool too, I bought a couple on eBay they work pretty nicely. Putting the new seals in I put a little grease on the outside of the seal to help it go in, doing it dry seemed way too hard and it kind of rubbed the rubber off the metal when I tried it that way.

If it is the part # you seek, try opposedforces.com or subarupartsforyou.com they both list genuine part #'s.

Mineral oil was for R12 systems. R134A generally uses PAG. The zexel and calsonic took different weights one was 100 I htink the ohter was 110.

hehe this is the pic I have, I cleaned and painted them a couple years ago but never put them on. Then I found out the rear drum to disc was more involved than I hoped so didn't do anything with them.

Ok excellent thanks for the info.

For the fronts I don't think you need backing plates or anything, just the calipers and brackets and if rotor diameter is different then the rotors. 543 pages hehe I'll take your word for it. Thanks for the info. I imagine if the vehicle has abs risk is even lower since the front wheels can't lock up then anyway. How about for a '96 brighton, do you think it would be okay to leave the rear drums (just a bit more involved than I want to get right now), but put on the dual pot front calipers (since I already have them and that's a quick swap)? Thanks.

Ah ok that's possible I guess I was just thinking that because I have rear drums but it's a brighton. Are the master cylinders different? Seems like there would be some factor for proportion.

I might just be noticing it because I'm using tires for '00obw on the red '96, which there is quite a difference in the overall diameter.

I think it will just bolt on. I bought the stuff to do this on my '96 but never did it. It sounds like you are upgrading the wheels too, which you probably would need to do of course to clear the larger brakes. The rear should also be upgraded, otherwise it is going to have much more front bias than it already has. Why are the Outback brakes larger? I think it is because the wheels and tires are larger diameter, so larger diameter rotors gives it more mechanical advantage in stopping. I run Outback wheels on my '96 legacy in the winter, and the brakes still work fine, but you kind of realy have to step on them moreso than with the smaller tires.

No, 2000 plus Legacy and Outback will _not_ work. You have regular mcpherson rear suspension, starting in 2000 was multilink rear suspension which is completely different.

Sometimes whistle is idle air control valve or one of the vacuum lines unhooked. I have an '00obw and I will tell you from experiments with the knock sensor that it can nearly make the engine stall at times and give it nearly no power.

Hm..the green eh I think I might have used some of that on some of mine so I better recheck them. From the factory I think they come with the red niglube, which also comes in the caliper reseal kits.