porcupine73

http://www.cars101.com/legacy2000.html ALL NEW 3rd generation Legacy Brighton, L, and GT "All Legacys have the more powerful Phase II 2.5L SOHC 4 cylinder Boxer engine first used in 1999 Forester and Impreza RS. There is no 2.2L engine in the Legacy anymore"

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html says Subaru LEGACY Tires and Wheels 2010; all with Tire Pressure Monitoring 3.6R (all)- 17" alloy wheel 17.0j offset 48 (1.89), PCD 100mm (3.94") Doesn't say a width but it seems like it probably falls in that range you mentioned; that's a pretty good range.

If you are looking for the right side cam cap that takes the o-ring, if it has it, it is at the rear/firewall end of the engine. Here it is from my '94 2.2L:

hehe the belt was to keep those heat shields from rattling. I must have at least a half dozen belts on the exhaust parts to stop all that ratling. I like my cats to be well dressed.

hehe yah when I was taking pics of the exhaust parts the o-rings and starter contacts were making a big fuss about being left out so I let them be in the pic too.

Not sure, I just wire brushed the surfaces and wiped them off before putting on the new donut. I don't remember if those pics were before or after the wirebrushing. I also gave it all a good coat of antisieze. It didn't have any leaks after.

hm high idling ideas....vacuum leaks, misadjusted throttle and/or cruise control cables (so throttle doesn't close all the way), You mentioned neutral switch, I was thinking about that one, it may need to be checked for adjustment. If the MT is in neutral but the ecu thinks it is in gear it can cause weird things to happen. There were some notes with that switch on the MT soobs of that era.

The surfaces must be clean of excess rust particles for the gasket to seat properly, especially the mating surface on the mid pipe. Here's my pics from when I had this issue '00obw can't have an uneven surface here or it will leak

Ive been thinking about getting some of those industrial type traps where they go into it and can't get back out. I have more trouble with mice in/around the house and basement than the garages. It's a mid 1800's house so it has a lot of spots mice can get in. One time under the kitchen sink I caught seven mice in one day in the same trap hahaha. Somewhere I have a pic of a mouse that got caught in two traps, by the leg in the first one then ran along the wall and got nailed on the head by a second trap.

This is the perfect application for the arrows on the LH cam sprocket. Arrow each 0 90 180 270 deg position is tdc for one of the pistons. you'll know if it isn't the one you're working on as air will be leaking out intake or exhaust.

I have trouble with mice in the garages too, in the cars, lawn equipment, etc. I put out poison but they just take it and store it under the hood. Traps work the best it seems. I have had good results with one of these electronic pest repellers I got somewhere. Supposedly they hate fabric dryer sheets and stuffing a few of those under the hood keeps them away but I haven't tried it.

The crankshaft pulley bolt was wet with fuel? That is a bit odd. It may have oil on it, since the service manual says to oil the threads before installing it. If you reinstalled that bolt make sure you tightened it enough, if that baby loosens up you are in trouble. If you have oil in the spark plug tubes that could cause the misfire. Also if those cylinders aren't firing sometimes you are dumping raw fuel into the exhaust and maybe some of it is getting into the oil especially if you make a lot of short trips.

If you have the crasman clicker types, pop the cap off the end and put some green loctite on the lock nut in there. The reason those clickers get such bad reviews is that nut loosens up over time and eventually comes off then you can't adjust the torque, and you would need a verryryyy thin wall socket to get that nut back in place. The green loctite should seep into the threads and keep that nut from loosening up.

Not if you put it on just the air/fan setting. Then you could run it off an inverter.

Yes it does sound like it is resetting the I/M's every time the engine is shut off, which is what the '96's did so the '96s got an emissions I/M readiness exemption letter from Subaru. Sounds like that's what you might need to get.

Could be...or maybe the rings are kind of worn? Does it fail leakdown on all cylinders or just one or two?

We are left to wallow in our own filth haha. Same idea with houses, some people have air filters or stuff like that and some don't.

If you're talking about those little squirrel cage motors on ebay forget it. Those things probably can't even flow the CFM the engine needs under full throttle to begin with much less give any 'boost'. Just consider the power required to give say 14 psi boost at 350CFM, this is much more than some little gadget can make. Even a 220V garage air compressor might have trouble keeping up. Now I have seen an 'electric supercharger' setup that did give that kind of boost, but it could only do it for a couple minutes at a time I think it was and it was large heavy and had several batteries associated with it.

That description sounds like P0420. Another cause can be exhaust leaks. The smokyness can be burning oil (how's your PCV valve? it might be all plugged up), or could be other smokes.

Ah ok 140psi is not bad for a '92 engine. I was thinking of later engines for the 180psi. Here's some info from the '94 manual for compression: When checking compression pressures, ensure engine is at normal operating temperature and battery is completely charged. Remove all spark plugs and open throttle fully. Remove ignition coil harness, then install a suitable compression gauge. Crank engine and note compression gauge reading when gauge pointer is steady. Perform at least two measurements per cylinder to ensure compression readings are correct. The maximum compression difference between cylinders is 14 psi. Compression pressures should be 135-156 psi at 300 RPM. Trying to say how long it would last is not easy, I mean you don't know the maintenance history of the engine and it is now probably at least 18 years old. At 170k the water pump is probably pretty tired and it might have many oil leaks and things timing belt/ etc that should be addressed before installing to give a good life.

It could also be parts supercession, i.e. the 80 one superceding the earlier type. Subaru like others probably switches parts vendors over the years. So then if you order multiples you might get some new old stock and some of the new style depending on what the dealer has on hand or orders.

It wasn't a dohc but I use wooden clothes pins just to help hold the belt where I want it, enough force to keep the belt in place but certainly not enough to damage anything or scratch anything...

Foghorn a/c related sound is often the metering/expansion valve at the evaporator.

Do not use the arrows for timing!!!!!!! It is the hash marks. The tensioner must be compressed vvvvverrryyy slowly like taking 10 minutes ie in a vise on the earlier style that have if you have a '93, but you said 'upwards' whcih wsould be the later tensioner sytle. If so it must be compressed vertically (not in a vise) again veryyyyyy slowly or you will kill it.