porcupine73

Hm...not sure. I know the conditioner stuff is a brown mess, if that stuff were in the coolant I don't think it would be a nice green color like that, it would look more muddy. I think Subaru was adding the conditioner at the factory on new vehicles for a while but I don't think it comes in the coolant jug themselves.

What's it doing, not putting out? Haven't attempted any interal alternator repairs, but the issue could be the regulator/rectifier, that thing with the IH247 writing on it. You might be able to get that part separately on eBay or something like that (if it's the problem). This is one I was looking at on eBay, I have a '00obw alternator that started putting out 16 volts: Found this in the files:

Yes soob manual trans do call for GL-5, it needs the extreme pressure additives. Synchromesh is more for Honda's and stuff that are transverse mount and don't have hypoid gears in the diff.

Nice rig. Some people do some serious towing with soobs like way above what is recommended. This is a '87 F250 my dad used to have, this thing was a beast, 472ci v8 or something like that engine I think it had. I think it had the dana 70 rear diff. It had a 5th wheel hitch that would pull this large camper trailer up the steepest hills without batting an eyelash.

Yes ditto, fuel filter if you haven't done it lately. Those conditions you described are when the engine is going to be demanding the most fuel and it might not be getting enough if that is restricted. Don't think '94 has EGR but fuel filter is in same spot:

Hm synchromesh manual transmission fluid? I don't think that stuff is GL-5 rated so it would not be for use in a Subaru manual trans, not enough protection for the front differential hypoid gears.

Seafoam is pale oil, naptha, isopropyl alcohol, and water.

The a/c pressure switch is on the receiver/dryer near the front right strut tower. I have a '94 that the a/c won't turn on...but I think it has something to do with the severely bent condensor

It is fixed. You don't hear of as many soob head gasket issues after '03. Plus the HG's for the motors that had issues had some changes so that the current Subaru genuine replacements when put in correctly don't seem to have high recurrance of failures.

I put it in.

It's probably a little (or a lot) of rust keeping it on the shaft. In addition to the above, try to get some good penetrating oil in there.

Right on, '99 2.2L is interference piston to valve. That other endwrench quote about the 2.2L's not being interference is misleading. That particular quote about the 2.2L not being intereference is in a Subaru engine publication as well, but I believe it was published before 1997, and it was true until model year '97. There is a good article on endwrench about H4 and H6 engines, and it tells by year what the changes were. a couple excerpts 2.2 Liter Phase 1 Engine Enhancements The 2.2 liter Phase 1 engine has been enhanced, starting with 1997 model year ... Compression ratio has been increased to 9.7 to 1 by reshaping the crown of the piston. This eliminates the clearance that was available etween the piston at TDC and a fully opened valve.

Do you have a manual transmission?

You could try jumping the starter solenoid to verify if the starter and solenoid are working and that the starter has power. Did you reconnect that large ground cable when the starter was replaced?

Oh good point what year is this 1.8L? Is it fuel injected?

If air is in the system you would need to draw vacuum first to get the air out, and ideally cause the moisture in the system to boil out. Air and moisture in the a/c system are not good and make it work poorly if at all.

If so, it might explain the starting issues. You must have a cam position sensor somewhere. I don't know that lhd vehicle engine would be any different than rhd....has to be near one of the camshafts somewhere obviousy.........

Hi. Hm no that first pic looks more like the engine oil pressure switch. The second pic does look like the crank position sensor. The crank position sensor is usually an orange colored sensor mounted on the top of the oil pump, kind of under the alternator, near that oil pressure switch sort of. Here it is on a 2.2L, the orange thing: cam angle sensor is also orange at least mine was on 2.2L, also orange, here it is in a few spots the orange thing.

Hm.....did you happen to have any front axles or cv joint boots replaced?

Should be roughly in these areas, at least that's where they are on all my soobs....

You don't want it to engage when there is no pressure. If the compressor clutch and pressure switch etc are good as you add pressure to the low side it will eventually engage. Do you have the 'ol 12A or the 134A system? If the system has been dead for some time you really want to have it vacuumed before just adding refrig.

Ok regular seafoam msds from some era is avilable here http://www.montanajacks.com/msds/seafoam-msds.pdf Regular seafoam appears to be mainly some oil and solvents. Percentages are by weight. PALE OIL 40-60% NAPHTHA 25-35% IPA 10-20% Seafoam transtune let's see if I can find that.... http://www.unitedsuppliers.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=wRpooMkE%2FYg%3D&tabid=78&mid=581&forcedownload=true Ahhhhhhh well now this is interesting. The msds for both products is the same and there is blurb up at the top: SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT Part No. SF-16 SEA FOAM TRANS TUNE Part No. TT-16 Each product contains the same ingredients; however, the percentage of each ingredient varies within the limits of the printed percentages, depending on the use of each product.

I have used the transtune a few times for flushing things, usually the power steering system hoping it will pull out varnishes (this is one of the few times I've seen Subaru recommend a flush chemical is for the power steering system). I have used it on some lawn tractor hydraulic systems again hoping to get out varnish. I did use it on one soob's AT that seemed sticky, I didn't leave it in though, just ran it with the old ATF before changeout. I'll see if I can find the ingredients. I know the normal seafoam is made up of a fair amount of just isopropyl alchohol I think it was iirc.

The speedo will read differently with different size tires, but does it have to be recalibrated? Not necessarily, I mean you get get a general idea of how much it is off from the tire size chart calculations, or if you have a GPS just do a few runs and see what you get. I have larger tires on some soobs, smaller sizes on others, you just have to remeber i.e. OK at 60mph on the speedo I ama ctualy going about 55mph, etc.

Ohhhh interesting. That plumbs in completely differently from what I was thinking.