porcupine73

So what is the secret to getting the inner tie rod boot on the rack lip? I remember last time I replaced the front left inner tie rod end on '00obw, it was a major pain to get the boot to go on the lip on the rack. I had to tug and tug and horse around with it for a good while before it finally just popped into place. Having same problem this time on '96 Legacy. It starts going on but I can't quite get it to go on all the way around.

Yah that should work but that'd be wayyy for force on the belt than it would see in normal service....not sure what it would take to stretch the thing more than a couple degrees or so....

Don't believe there is a switch on that year; the ECU controls them based on speed, engine coolant temp, a/c compressor on off etc. If ECTS is unhooked, you should have a CEL/MIL and both fans running (at least that's what it does on '00obw).

Yes those things can be tiighhhttt the first time. I think they tightened them to the torque spec * 10 or something at the factory.

Hm....which ECU are you using? The timing marks that the cam position sensor reads on the back of the cam sprocket might be different on those two engines. The crank sprocket should probably be compared too just to make sure.

If it's fuel injected they're typically capable of putting out 60-70psig before the pump's relief opens. The fuel pressure regulator usually is at roughly about 35-45psi depending on vacuum. The fuel pump you are describing sounds like it was for a carb application.

Hm.......where would the jaws go?

I have an '00obw too but don't yet know if it has this filter, although I did order a replacement.

Yes even a little bit of rust will make it tough to get that sprocket off. Penetrating oil can help. Some people have rigged up a puller to get it off in really bad cases. Yes the key does secure this sprocket.

Just make sure to get bonafide fuel injection hose (not just something that says fuel hose).

Sounds good. Just make sure to check what the required maintenance is. Some of the superbikes require engine teardowns as maintenance.

Those codes don't necessarily sound related to the timing belt work. The knock sensors are known to develop cracks on that era and can cause that code you are getting, but they aren't expensive and are pretty easy to replace. The knock sensor could be related to your stalling issues. When the ECU detects knock sensor issue it starts retarding timing to the edge of the map, and that robs fuel economy and power and can make the vehicle pret near stall. I did some experiments on my '00obw disconnecting the knock sensor while driving and it is interesting what happens, at first it almost seems like the engine dies, then stays running but has very little power and will bog down really bad if stepping on the gas. The P0440 can be a tough one to find, it can be even a little pinhole leak in the fuel tank, filler neck, etc., can cause it. Though checking the gas cap or repalcing it could be a first step since that sometimes causes it.

Yes, the Japanese know how to build bikes like they do cars. Some make both cars and bikes, which isn't seen much if at all anymore in the u.s. market. Porcupine has come to like Honda. So far the only problem he has encountered with the VFR is the cooling fan coolant switch went faulty.

I always have trouble getting those seals out. I like to use Lisle, now that I've scratched the cams a few times trying to drill holes in the seals to use screws in there, etc.

Hose pliers such as those from HF makes releasing the fuel hoses death grip on the filter nipples much easier.

The light flashing means the TCU has code(s) stored. You could read the code(s) and see what they mean. The fact that the FWD fuse does nothing and it has torque bind and the light is flashing could mean the duty c / transfer duty solenoid is done for. If that's the case, driving it too long like that could damage the transfer clutch itself also. The transfer clutch is in the rear extension housing, the duty c is the thing with the wire on it:

Hi nipper. I have had this code one time on '00obw auto. I'm pretty sure at least for me it is/was the neutral switch or whatever that position switch on the trans for the shifter. It is a bit off. Sometimes it doesn't indicate park, like it thinks it is between gears, unless I firmly shove the shifter to park. If it runs very long like that with no indication it throws that code it seems. Not sure if that is helpful to you but it's what I've got. Hope you figure it out!

This is for '00obw but probably similar if not the same for '03 4 cyl

I have one too here somewhere... can't remember who I got this pic from but it isn't mine: someone mentioned it doesn't use a serpentine belt. The H6 does. The H4 has the separate traditional belts.

Could be. It seems there was a note on endwrench somewhere about the possibliity of plugged oil gallery.

Not sure on that setup if you need to drop the xhast manifold. I did install one of these heaters on my '96 and it was pretty easy. Hardest part was getting the plug out. It took a 14mm hex thing. I used an impact wrench and beat it out. goes in here->

Can you kind of match it up to see if it is the same dimensions, inlet and outlet size, etc? If not it may require some exhaust pipe work to get it in there. Cheap cats are often cheap b/c they don't contain as much of the precious catalysts platinum, rhodium, palladium, etc as genuine cats.

Ditto on the split flange. I am having this exact same issue, in fact, on a '96 Legacy as well. I bought two size split flanges, one is 1-3/4" to 2" (this size seems to be hard to find, but autozone has them). I think this is the right size as it measures at about 1-7/8" from what I can see. The other size is 2" to 2-1/4" but I think that may be too big. You probably also need a new donut gasket. If you unhook the two rubber bumper things that hold the exhaust up, it will pivot down at the supports at the muffler making it easier to get at the stuff. On mine anyway, the weld spot or flared spot on the back of the rear cat is still there, and I am thinking that will be very helpful in keeping the split flange from coming off.

That looks correct as pictured. The upper one takes more load hence the double row there. Ordering the single row from Subaru now gets you a double row as a superceded part. The single row has been known to fail in the double row position.

Look for something mentioning for vehicles calling for Dexron III. GM stopped renewing licenses to blenders for Dexron III some time back. The genuine filter is about $20-$25 from dealers selling parts online.