porcupine73

Just some pics for reference for future readers of the thread left: McPherson . right: multilink

Oh ok sounds like the Foresters might have never went to rear multilink at least not around 2000? I was just assuming they did along with the Legacies and Outbacks around that year.

Oh good point, the dohc was MAF based, the other engine is speed density MAP based, so that is likely to be tricky to swap over. Also would that engine even bolt up to the trans? Sometimes the number of bolts and dowel locations are different. The old engine might not have been 'destroyed' anyway; yes it may have ben t a few valves, but since you had to pull the old engine anyway, the heads could just be pulled, repaired, and reinstalled. ccrengines.com sells good Subaru engines. If by chance you bought the new engine on a credit card, you might have some leverage there, since you can always dispute the charge. If the sales slip stated positively no returns you're probably out of luck, but if the return policy is not stated, the credit card cos will often side with the consumer and the seller might just let you return the engine if you threaten to dispute the charge. I would ask them before disputing because the seller gets charged like $50 minimum for a dispute.

When they changed to the rear multilink susp. Let me do a quick check....Ok for Foresters it appears it was around November/December 1999 production when it switched. That is based on the info from here: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Forester&subcat=Struts%2C+Rear

Takes a peek under the rear end. Do you see a rear differential and drive axles on the rear wheels? If not, then she's FWD. The jack is under the rear diff:

For the volume of the pump, the fuel pressure regulator should still be able to keep the pressure required at the fuel rails. Is that 64psi the dead head pressure? The EJ pumps will put out around that much too dead headed when the internal relief on the pump opens. The fuel pressure regulator is really a back pressure regulator and then the excess returns to the tank. I don't know the 87 GL-10 but if it is carb'd then as long as you don't mean 6.4 psi instead of 64 that should be ok.

Wow, that is sweet. That's a pretty inexpensive easy way to get a 2" lift. Now there's a quick recommendation to make for that gen when a new person asks! I wish that'd been out a couple years back when I put in King Springs. Here's a comparison pic for reference in case it helps someone see the difference later. This is a '00obw with new KYB GR2's and KS lift springs. The lift from the blocks in the pic above appears to be easily a couple inches better. http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/gallery/obw001-lg.jpg

Yes shake down the front end. If you reach behind the wheel and grab the tie rod and shake it as hard as you can you really shouldn't feel any looseness there. Outers are pretty easy to feel. Inners are a little harder to detect but if you shake it hard enough you can usually feel it if it's loose. Shake the new shiny silver thing in this pic (this is after I replaced my inner and outer; if I replace the inner I usually just use a new outer since I have it apart): http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/tie-rod-ends/Subaru-inner-and-outer-tie-rod-ends-replaced1.jpg

I don't know if this is related to your issue but I just thought I'd throw it out there, the timing marks on the back of the cam sprockets that the cam position sensor picks up are different between some engines. If you're using the original ECU, you might want to make sure the back of the sprocket on the new engine is the same as the original.

Yes that is possible for the light, especially with dual filament bulbs. Sometimes one filament blows inside the bulb and shorts against the other, then you get weird things happening.

You will need to read the code(s) out of the ABS unit. You can do it by shorting a couple pins together on one of the harnesses. Then it will flash out the codes. Then you can look up what the codes mean. There is a good article on Endwrench with the procedure and details.

That sounds good, looking forward to the pics. Yes wind has a nasty effect on paint If it's windy enough a sea gull might get stuck in the paint. Maybe some yellow Subaru rally stickers would work?

Hello. The tranny tips are relevant in that all automatic transmissions require the proper, fresh, quality, clean fluid for long term operation. If yours has never been changed that would be a good place to start. Some '01s did get the slow to engage into drive issue as well. The timing belt notes don't apply to yours as you have a timing chain.

Sounds good. Subaru pretty much uses third parties to remanufacture parts to the specs Subaru provides them. Sorry to hear about the transmissions. It's probably a different company remanufacturing the alts than the transmissions. I have some miles racking up on two genuine Subaru reman'd alts and they are working great.

Sounds nice! Maybe you could get someone to make up a custom vinyl wrap for it.

It would be like the Subaru woody, some concept Subaru from the '90s. I know I saw a pic of it somewhere before. Ah yes, there she is, the '99 Forester Woody glory http://www.drive.subaru.com/Fall06_attic2.htm

Are you going to give her the rally paint job? The Justy with the world land speed record for the 1.0 production class.

I would go with the Subaru reman. Not only is it less expensive you know it is remanufactured properly. The lifetime warranty options are fine if that's what you're looking for; for mine I figure if the original alternator lasted say 150k miles and Subaru has it remanufactured properly it should last that long again. You could get your existing alt rebuilt, but if it's not much cheaper than the genuine Subaru reman'd I would just get the Subaru one. Oh hey I just thought of something, some of the soobs from that era had a recall on them for the brushes in the alt and that it could stop charging or get intermittent. I'm not sure if '97 was included, but it might be worth checking, since if your alt is original you might be able to get it replaced free from Subaru. Also I think that's why that year range Subaru reman'd alt is less expensive than other years, because Subaru probably had to get a boatload of them to do that campaign.

Looks nice! The temp sender could probably be in either place really, it just depends what you want to know from it. If it's after the filter and cooler then you know the temp of the oil going into the engine; if it's right after the pump that can be informative too because you can see how hot the oil is pretty much leaving the pan. Over my temp sender I wrapped a layer of reflectix insulation, just to try to keep any air flowing over it etc from making it read low.

That sounds like a nice setup, and a great way to get some extra oil capacity and keep it cool without over cooling. I would put the temp sender as close to after the oil pump as possible, with the thinking being this is going to be nearly the hottest area with access to put the sender. The oil gets hotter than that circulating through the engine of course and then back to the pan, where it cools off some. I would put the pressure sender as far from the oil pump as possible in the setup. That is going to let you know the pressure going into the engine then, so if the filter or any of your line is blocked you may see the pressure drop. I've done similar setups in some soobs but with bypass oil filters (keeping the existing full flow) but I just put the temp sender and pressure sender on the bypass filter mount; not ideal but it was the only easily accessible places I had to put it (tapping in at the factory oil pressure switch under the alt for the oil source). If your oil filter already has an adbv in it then I don't think a check valve is required. Check valves don't always fully close properly anyway. Plus if it isn't large enough you might get a little pressure drop across it.

It seems I saw something about this sort of thing on Endwrench.com but I am forgetting the details now. I think it had to do with filling past where the nozzle clicks off and ending up getting liquid gasoline into the charcoal canister (which is only intended to take vapor). I am guessing Canada spec soobs have similar emissions equipment to the U.s. Or not inserting the nozzle all the way while filling so that the tip of the nozzle is down past where the hose takeoff to the canister is - then it could get liquid down into the canister that way too.

Yes please post model, mileage, etc. If it happens to be cylinder #1 there is something about idle control on some of the mid 90's that could make the ECU cut injection pulses.

That's what I would be looking for, at least for the rears. The fronts Subaru used the same mount for many different years so those might be the same. One other possible difference maybe would be the upper spring diameter; i.e. Impreza and some other market (non-USDM) Legacies and Outbacks have/had a smaller diameter at the top of the springs; not sure if it's possible a 90 Legacy would have had that, but in that case you might need the upper spring seats too. For mine I'm planning to get the components I know I need such as struts and mounts and then anything I encounter while building the new assemblies I will address at that time by getting the required parts.

Here's some struts assemblies I've built in the past. In the pic on the right that is build with a KYB GR-2 and all new genuine Subaru components (except the spring is a King Spring lift spring). Kind of pricey to build that way but everything is nice and new and tight that way. In that pic on the right (that is a front strut), the strut on to the left in the pic on the right is a stocker from a '96 Legacy; the strut on the right is built with a '96 Outback strut, just to show the nice difference in height