porcupine73

5/16" inch is the way to go imho. It will stretch that much no problem, at least for me. I have used 5/16" fuel injection hose on several soobs. 3/8" will work, but it is a little bit too big and requires clamping the heck out of it to make it not drip. I've been buying the FI hose in 25 foot spools on eBay. It was a name brand, I forget now, a brand I have seen in parts stores. But at much less than the parts store price.

Hello and welcome. You block the crank to tighten the bolt it the same way you blocked it to loosen the bolt (unless you used the starter bump technique). Ram a prybar or something through the flywheel access hole, or if it's a manual just leave it in 5th. You can use a chainwrench with some old belt to protect the pulley but I've found it easier to just ram a prybar into the flywheel. You're supposed to put a little engine oil on the crank pulley bolt when you reinstall it. Make sure you get it tight enough because if it backs out later, which does happen to some people, bad things will happen.

Yes I imagine that would make a nice sound in turns. I put new strut mounts on my 96 a few years ago. I can hear the swooshing right in the steering wheel.

Hello and welcome to the site. I never actually did fix mine. It still makes this sound when turning the wheel, kind of like the swooshing sound George's pants made during his interview on that Seinfeld episode. I had hosed the area down with silicone spray and it seemed to help some. I do not feel the wheel getting harder or easier to turn at all though like you are describing. I am thinking my sounds is the clockspring.

Ok thanks, I'll order a new crank position sensor then. Fortunately I just found $100 Subaru bucks I hadn't used. I'll poke around at the rear o2 sensor when I get a chance. I know I ordered a new sensor a couple years ago but I don't remember if I ever put it in. Too many soobs too many parts haha. Thanks for all your help!

Hi, I was stopped a light last night with my '96 Legacy Brighton, 2.2L, A/T, 123k miles. Then it stalled. I tried to restart a couple times and it wouldn't. After about the third or fourth try it restarted, but the CEL/MIL came on. I read the code and it was P0335: CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (CRANK) Then I drove it home and it was OK. Does the crank position sensor tend to go bad on this era soob? Just wondering because if yes I'll just replace it. When I got home, with it idling, I tried poking around the wiring harness and shaking them to check for loose connections, but I was unable to duplicate the issue. edit to add: Not sure if it's related, but it's also been regularly throwing DTC P0141: REAR OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION, but I've just been resetting it each time. What should be my next steps?

Oh sweet I forgot about that recall. My '96 had those funky spring guards on it. The build date on my '94 was 01/94 and it was originally sold in CT. That kind of recall it would seem should apply to any owner without time limits since it is safety related?

The break is right near the top of the spring, so it isn't losing much ride height. Maybe like 1/2". I'm sure if the spring broke more in the middle or down further I"d probably have noticed it sagging. They said it is supposed to fail the inspection with a broken coil spring but since it is way up at the top and can't cause a tire puncture and that I should get it taken care of they let it pass. Maybe santa will bring me some suspension parts for Christmas? It's also got an intermittent shudder I am noticing above about 65 mph on the highway, it feels like it's under the seats so I am thinking maybe driveshaft joints or something. Mercury on an airplane? Is that going to be a Christmas movie staring Samuel L Jackson? I had a Ford Escort in high school that had broken springs in the front right near the top, but you couldn't see it because it had this tough plastic coating over them in that area. I didn't know they were broken until I was replacing the struts and the pieces fell out. Whoops! Then the apartment manager lady was yelling at me for working on my car in the parking lot.

Yah that's a good idea. I'll take the cargo carpet out and wash it down with a baking soda water solution. The previous owner just put one of those plastic carpet protectors over it. I noticed the carpeting underneath it is in much worse condition than it was two years ago. I washed down the battery area with the baking soda solution already. It must've taken a good three gallons until it stopped fizzing and it was fizzing pretty good for a while. I used those flip top water bottles so I could stand back a ways. Then I got some transmission cooler hose at napa to replace those corroded metal line sections. I haven't driven this soob in a while. When I got to work today a co-worker asked if it was me who passed him in 'that rust bucket Legacy'. Rust bucket what!?!

Fast forward nearly two years and I think I finally know what the bang sound was. On safety inspection a couple days ago the tech mentioned the front right coil spring was broken about an inch from the top. So I am thinking that loud bang I heard was when it snapped. I know from the [thread=62153]sway bar snap on the '00obw[/thread] that when metal fractures it makes that loud gunshot sound haha Off topic but this thing also had bad battery leak at some point, and the chap put the battery in the cargo area. The acid is really starting to eat the cargo carpeting apart. Also it leaked all over the transmission cooler lines and when I started it up the other day I heard gurgle gurgle gurgle and saw a bunch of red stuff pouing on the floor. Doat!

The limiting factor in this application may be the clearance between the tire and the lower strut spring seat.

That is a nice adventure. Glad Blu made it through having the paint cleaning without trouble. Hand feeding apples to Buffalo could be a problem. There is Buffalo or maybe thy're Bison farmer near my house, he has a couple dozen out there each year, and yah, I don't relaly think about tgetting out to pet them or rub their bellies.

In that last pic Blu looks like he really wants to get off that dirt roadway and into some more muck. haha mom is like if you roll this window down and this donkey licks my face you are in big trouble.

haha that's great. Those donkeys just want a treat and to have their bellies rubbed. Yah those Subaru magazines would love content like that. They probably give some nice Subaru swag or coupons or something for that sort of thing too. You have some ham radios or something in Blu there nipper with all those antennas? Also like the first pic showing the rear fog lamp, nice.

I have an '00obw and it does have back illumination in the gear shift area, but I never realized it because it was always dark. One day I was messing around and hit the shift area and it lit up. So maybe there is somethign with the bulb not making a good connection as a pattern in these things (or maybe burned out).

Is it possible the final drive ratio of the transmission you installed does not match the rear diff? That would cause bad binding.

I think you're going to have to use the wiring harness, ECU, and intake from the EJ22 if this is going to work. The 00 Forester has the phase II 2.5L dohc, which is MAP speed density based airflow measurement, whereas the EJ22 you are putting in used a MAF.

I've got a similar craftsman unit my dad gave me; the only quiet solution I could find was to put in an adjacent different building and pipe the air supply over. Otherwise it was making me flinch badly every time it kicked on.

Not sure if this helps but this pic is of a '96 Legacy wagon stock front vs. '96 Outback KYB GR-2 (with king spring but at strut fully extended it doesn't make any height difference)

Could be one or more of the hydraulic lifters has leaked down, esp if you turned the cams too many times during the work.

Well if the oil pressure is really that low don't drive it unless you're looking to replace the engine. The first question is whether the oil pressure really is low, or if the pressure switch or circuit is faulty.

Woohoo it's on! Thanks for all the help guys. I was trying this evening with two long reach pliers to yank it on there. It kept almost going but not quite. The I used some silicone spray as nipper suggested on there though I didn't think it would make any difference. Bingo, sschlooaapop is the sound it made as the very next try it popped right on all the way around. Something about that silicone spray just reallyy helps.

haha I also noticed the Subaru service manual shows removing the entire rack to replace the inner tie rod ends.....maybe this is why!

Thanks for the idea, I was trying to figure out something like that that might work without ripping the boot.....Hm..I wonder if a stiff coat hanger with the end bent over so it isn't sharp would be of any use. I have been trying some longish pliers with a bent over end just still couldn't quite get that top part to slip on.

Yes! It is that top part. I can get it on just about all the way around but that top end is very little clearance clarence. I have tried only 37 times up to now, so I am glad to hear that within 10 more tries it should go on! I thought about maybe trying to heat the boot up a little bit to make it more flexible not sure. I am using long pliers to kind of pull it onto the lip since you really can't get fingers into all the cranies in there. It is kind of rough on the boot but it's the best I can do. I remember this being a problem the last time and then finally when I just thought there was no possible chance it would go it popped on there so I will have to keep at it. Hm silicone spray, I could try it. I did grease all the areas ahead of time.