michaelbteam

I have bought at least one new set of snows every season for many years, for the Suby fleet and a 2006 Tundra. Sometimes if someone is lazy the tires run all year and are replaced in the fall. We love Blizzaks and Michelin X-Ice. New winter tires are cheap insurance against that one slippery day that ruins your life. Climbing traction is not so much the issue as downhill braking, which is greatly improved with specific winter compound tires. BTW, recently put Blizzaks on daughter's LL Bean for around $450 with discounts available at the time.

I had the same problem with a 99 outback, got fleeced. Tried everything including the fancy sealer. Ended up running my car all winter up and down a canyon about 4000 vertical, with the thermostat removed. The overflow would fill up, and at the end of the day when the car was cold I would empty the overflow back into the radiator, drive her home and do the same thing next day, for two months. Finally sold it cheap and vowed not to own another 2.5, have two 96 outbacks with 2.2's.

What is ONE accident worth? Dedicated [sticky] snows like the Blizzak or Michelin X-Ice make hazardous winter conditions almost fun to drive in. We put this quality tire on a Tundra and two Subies every winter for my son and daughter. Cheaper tires of this type like the Arctic claw were incredibly noisy, so we stick with the Blizzak or X-Ice, whichever are the best value. Just got 225-60-16's, Blizzaks for a about $460 after rebates at Discount Tire. Good tires are CHEAP insurance!

I had the elusive HG issue with a 99 Outback. [2.5] Had to drive it 20 miles into the mountains every morning, from 4500 feet to 8000 feet and did not have time to repair it in the winter. It would not quite overheat but would push coolant into the overflow. I ran it with no thermostat and simply dumped the full oveflow back into the tank every night after work and drove it home with no issues. This problem was so hard to diagnose initially--it would not produce symptoms during a 15 minute high RPM test in the radiator shop. Finally sold the car to someone who felt like fixing it, no more 2.5 for me.

The idler pulley bearing seized, ruined the pulley and bracket, ate the belt. there were 3 little bearings left melted in the housing. Now I know to pay closer attention.

That's even better, now no one has to look for it! Thanks.

This was the serpentine drive belt, not a timing belt, which the H-6 does not have anyway since it has a timing chain. I have not seen any 2003 Outbacks in our local self service yards yet, in fact rarely any Outbacks at all. Plenty of older Legacies. I did not check to see if that bracket is on models other than the H-6. Would anyone know that? All of the yards I called would not sell a bracket off their engines.

Maybe did not move alternator over enough, anyway, got it done.

There was an intermittent squeak in the engine compartment of my daughter's 03 LL Bean, H-6 engine. I would normally investigate promptly, but I was busy and the plastic engine cover prevented an immediate look. Since I don't drive the car often and my daughter said the sqeak went away, we forgot about it. Anyway, the idler pulley seized and ate the belt yesterday reminding me that noises should be checked out before they cause problems. I always tell my kids to listen to their cars for warning noises and then I ignored this one! The bad part is that the fried pulley also ruined the attached support bracket for the alternator and A/C compressor. Junk yards won't part this off a good engine so the only option was Subaru for about $115, luckily they stocked one. Perhaps I'm not the only idiot to create this situation! A simple idler pulley replacement turned into quite a project, and I replaced the other pulley also, about $50 each at Subaru. AND, We're leaving the cover off the engine so we can more readily assess new noises.

So I was replacing the belt on daughter's 03 H-6, since the idler pulley seized and ate the belt. There is no diagram to be found on the car and none in the owners manual, or Chilton's or Hayne's. After quite a web search, found http://www.daycoproducts.com, and after searching the application was directed to a diagram for the H-6. I had difficulty with the install since the new belt needed to be levered and stretched. I have posted another thread on the idler pulley problem.

I appreciate all of your comments. Interestingly, the vibration "seems" to be significantly less since I changed the diff. and put in the correct amount of gear oil, incidently synthetic. It had 64 oz. in it when 41 are called for. When I checked the wheels there did not seem to be any play in the bearings or ball joints, but of course I could be mistaken. The slight vibration is the same with two completely different sets of wheels and tire brands. Both axle stubs in the diff are quite loose and I don't know if there is any remedy except diff overhaul. [?] 226 K miles, A/T. I guess I'll drive it until it breaks!?! Thanks again comrades.

Thanks, Fairtax. As an occasional "backyard" mechanic I am always relearning lessons. Both inner axle stubs have play, side to side, not in and out. Maybe the splines are worn,? 225K mi. on the car. The vibration is an "even" hum at speed, no variation. Changed rear diff fluid, seems fine back there. New driveshaft and trans mount, all seems tight. Wheel bearings "seem" fine, brakes are new, ball joints and tie rod ends tight. Not sure about steering rack. Also, tires are evenly worn and I even swapped wheels and tires with my other outback, same result. Still searching, thanks for your input.

So, I over-reacted, there is power to the wheel. However, I drained the diff and 68 ounces came out instead of the 1.3 qts it's supposed to take. [about 41 oz.] I just bought this car, I wonder what other surprises there are? The inner axle stubs are loose in the diff, I wonder if the over-fill can affect that? Probably the source of the vibration. Thanks for your support, comrades!

Thanks, Log, will give it a try. Discovered front diff was way too full, so changing it now and checking for particles. I've seen wheels turn at different speeds [diffaction?] but never had one stand still.

Looked through the threads for similar complaints, no luck, so hoping the gurus can advise me! Put my 97 OB wagon [225K miles] on jackstands to diagnose slight shudder. [Driveshaft was very recently replaced, also trans mount, and used auto trans installed.] BUT what i found was with car running in drive, the right front axle is not turning, and with a stethoscope there seems to be an internal clicking coming from the transaxle [or is that the differential?] on that side. The right wheel turns freely by hand, no brake rubbing or wheel bearing binding, and YES the pin is IN the axle. Axle stubs on both sides have some play, and my other 96 [manual] OB wagon has no play in the axle stubs. With the car running in the air, left front and both rear wheels are receiving power, right front wheel is stopped. Seems like the transaxle is shot?? Thanks for any advice.

The best mileage I ever got was 27-28 in mixed conditions from a beat-up manual 1990 legacy wagon with 200 k miles. A 93 automatic legacy never got better than 22, my 96 2.2 manual outack gets about 25, but our automatic 97 outback with 225 k also gets 25. They all have run fine so I've not tried to tweak tuning. Seems like they are all just different.?!

In SLC, Tear-A-Part [about 1000 south Redwood Rd.], and Pick n' Pull [about 600 west 3300 south] usually have a good selection of legacys, 90-95. Outbacks or Imprezas are rare. Self service.

I measure circumference with a simple dressmaker's tape, looking for all four tires to be within a quarter inch. Seems easier than the parking lot "10 revolution test", except you have to remove the wheels from the car.

I found a thread that pictured a mini tear down of everything around the sensor to get at it. However, I just moved the air intake ducts and removed one 12mm. bolt holding a wire "carriage" mount so I could manuever an extension and 19mm. socket to remove the sensor. Not so difficult, but hard to find a way initially. Yes, quite a bit of coolant escaped, now to burp the baby again. Thanks for the response!

I'm getting an engine check light and obd2 reading "engine coolant temp malfunction." The car runs fine and passes inspection, but I want to solve this issue, with any help I can get from this enthusiasic forum. I think I've located the coolant temp sensor buried under wires under the right intake manifold, and it seems I can a socket in there to remove it, but either I don't have the right size or I'm mistaken altogether. Any hints on solving this? What size socket, maybe 21MM? Thanks.

I bought a 99 outback with the most sublime HG problem...would only overheat, that is--lose coolant into the overflow bottle, after a hard drive up the canyon. A vigorous 30 minute test in the radiator shop could not duplicate the problem! I'm sure the seller knew of this and of course did not tell me. It was so maddening I sold it at a loss, divulging the issue to the buyer who found some "super" stop leak that he claimed cured it! HAH, probably sold it to another sucker. I'll never buy another early 2.5 unless HG's have been fixed.

We found a 2003 LL Bean in Colorado last year for $12K w/75K miles, my daughter is very happy with it. Only use regular gas, seems fine. Thought hard about a VDC but seemed a potentially complicated issue if it ever malfunctioned. You'd have to drive this car pretty hard to need the VDC, I think, and with stock suspension it's a little heavy to drive too hard. Just my opinion. My lighter older Legacies seem to handle better in the canyons, but the H-6 is a much nicer ride overall.

I bought a used moonroof and assembly from Shaw's in Pocatello, shipped for $225. There are two nuts under black caps at the rear to remove, and two bolts at the front, located under the dome light assembly. Only takes about 15 minutes, once I figured it out. Also replaced passenger door glass myself, $70 for the glass. Took some time to vacuum up all the friggin glass. Thanks to the vandals who smashed the window just to see if there was anything to take (there wasn't!) Car karma awaits!

Thanks for the replies...located a used moonroof for about $200 and I "think" I can do it myself --if the dealer only charges for about a half hour, how hard can it be? Famous last words...$500 deductible negates an insurance claim. I will post my results

I've heard about this before, and now my daughter's 03 LL Bean has the exploding front moonroof, pressured from the inside out. Has anyone else experienced this, and does anyone have aftermarket repair solutions? The dealer wants $368 + $50 labor. Suggestions appreciated! :clap: