michaelbteam

GOOD STUFF--why only 2003 or newer?

I love my older Legacy's because a half baked backyard mechanic like me can easily deal with most peripheral issues like timing belt, etc. and axles without much trouble. Also that the EJ22 is non-interference in case the timing belt gives up suddenly. I had a 99 Outback that frustrated me with an elusive HG problem so I have stuck with the older Leg's. My QUESTION: are all the later Sub engines interference? Any recommendations on buying a later model Outback, what years may be more reliable than others? A friend is looking to spend up to $9K on a used one. THANKS, any feedback appreciated.

You should know exactly what you want in your engine and how much, talk to the tech doing the work, and double check the work. Unfortunately there are too many stories of incorrect fluids used, or incorrectly filled, like in the wrong filler pipes! Also, drain plugs too loose or too tight. Find someone you can trust-- and still be careful. Sometimes it helps to tip a concientious tech to do a good job. Same goes for tire dealers. Just last summer two friends lost wheels after tire work, one a Porshe Carrera and one a new Volvo XC. I always double check lug nuts. Most techs aren't getting paid much for a job that has dire consequences for mistakes.

I bought a 99 outback last year with 180K on it for $5g's, good deal on a lovely car, so I thought...it had the same problem as yours, and would not duplicate it at the radiator shop where it ran for an hour flawlessly. Frustrating situation to troubleshoot, had to be a pretty minor leak Mine would only really overheat going up the steep canyons, a 6 mile drive from about 5 to 8000 feet. I got through the winter by adding coolant before every cold start, recycling the overflow tank into the radiator much of the time, probably only used a gallon of 50-50 all winter. ALSO- removed the thermostat so it would not overheat as quickly, saved coolant! Loved that car but sold it [cheap] to someone who felt like fixing it, now I'm only driving older sohc legacies. I'd say keep adding coolant regularly and look for another car. Good luck!

When I bought my 95 Outback, cheap because it had a catastrophic leak, spit out a quart in 20 miles...the main problem was just the o-ring in the oil pump. Since I was there we did the rest of the usual service but the leak was just the o-ring, the screws were tight.

I'm thinking if I tried to drive my 93 legacy that hard I wonder how long it would last. I need transportation, not a hot rod. We put a 5 litre mustang in a 740 Volvo awhile back and that was a screamer, the rest of the car had a hard time keeping up! Good luck. First and last time I got screwed by a shop I called the attorney general's office and the guy turned out to be a real crook. Luckily I was able to "steal" my truck back before I had to pay their whole bill because I had to re-do all the work. The guy ended up in jail--they caught him one weekend drunk-driving 100 miles away in a customer's car!

Occasionally on my 93 legacy I turn the key and nothing happens. If I bang on the steering column, it works. ????

Thanks, folks, I'm on it! This is another bargain runner, relatively clean 90 legacy wagon with about 200K miles. A 2 owner, the guy just put axles, brakes, and a clutch in it and had to sell it--$900. Needs front end 'something', need to figure that out and have a good backup to our two 93 wagons.

90 legacy wagon, starts fine but won't idle until warmed up. Must be a sensor--I know I'll figure this out but wonder if someone knows the answer to save me some trouble. Thanks if you do!

My local Tear-A-Part yard had yielded nearly new radiators for about $50--last week I got a new all metal one from a wreck. I notice the one from my old 99 Outback fits the same as my early Legacys, all with plastic tanks.

#### happens. A good reason to drive a beater, a car with "character." A heck of a thing to lose sleep over. Good luck!

The most interesting threads seem to be Subie all wheel drive discussions. Here's a question-observation. I put my 93 Legacy AWD automatic on 4 jackstands and ran it in low to try to diagnose a wheel noise. [turned out to be a rubbing e-brake pad] I noticed all wheels turning at slightly different speeds, the right rear turning the fastest. [with the rubbing pad] I could stop any wheel with my hand and the others kept turning, of course. Ideally, should all wheels turn at the same rate under no load conditions like this?---perhaps varying resistance like brake or wheel bearing drag would influence this. Comments??? Thanks.

I bought a used 91 Legacy with repair receipts...the lady had to replace the driver's belt assembly to the tune of about $700!!! I'd hate to have one go bad, so maintenance tips would be helpful. Maybe some special lube?

HOW MUCH? $250.00?

I got a new radiator from a wreck the other day for $50 at Tear-A-Part. Worth a look if you have similar serve-yourself junkyards in you area.

On my 93 Legacy's I run 195/70- 14 snows in the winter for a slight height advantage. No fender clearance problems.

NICE TIP--it's salty around here, Salt Lake City, they put it all over everything the first sign of snow.

I think all 8 and a half quarts came out and I believe I removed the crossover pipe--I need to go back over my notes. I measured the drained amount and was careful when I filled it with the last couple of quarts, checking dipstick level often to avoid overfill. I was surprised too. I'll see if the same thing happens with the other 93 auto.

Thanks for the auto trans tips. By the way, when I changed the fulid on my other 93 legacy this summer, I jacked the front end up and let it down while draining and ALL of the fluid drained out [pan and filter removed.]

For sure-- anyone should know if their engine is interference or not. Learned the hard way with my daughter's 93 Jetta--just hadn't gotten around to changing the belt because I did not understand the consequences. I was driving it the day it stalled. Had an interesting shade tree learning experience pulling the head for valve service. That's one reason we're sticking with non-interference 2.2 subies, and even have a spare legacy in case one car dies during our hectic winter. They don't last forever, but it's fun to see how far they'll go! For anyone with serve-yourself wrecking yard access, this summer I found a wreck with new belts, water pump, pulleys, tensioner...all for cheap, tensioners were $5, dealer price around $70. Also, good covers, since rusty cover bolts break covers. Silicone also works to glue 'em back on. If the car does not run perfectly after TB replacement, you know you missed a tooth, do it again.

Thanks Nipper...the tranny has cherry red fluid and the seller said it was changed last year. Maybe I'll do it again.

Just bought a "backup" 93 Legacy wagon with 175000 miles for $1000. The seller did mention the auto trans might be a little tired, shifting a little slower than it used to. It runs well but seems to hesitate ever so slightly going from 2nd to third, I think--compared to my other 93 wagon, auto. I've searched some threads for additive advice to prolong the inevitable demise of a tired auto trans, and wonder if anyone has anything new [or old] to add on the subject. Thanks in advance for your wisdom.

WOW, what alot of work. I know if I put that much time and aggravation into a job I'll put a new part in, I've been fooled before. When my son's heater core went out on his Taurus, we just bypassed it and he drove all winter with the windows down and his goose down parka zipped up tight! Good luck to you.

The Legacy Central site has a wealth of info on this. THANKS again for the wealth of help on Ultimate Subaru!

Someone posted recently that they sanded and polished their old headlight lenses to bring them back to life. Does anyone have experience with this? THANKS!