Humble Nuto 53

the motor youre pulling only weighs about 178 pounds... its pretty well balanced motor as far as they go.. i was using a piece of nylon rope about as big around as my finger, passed it from front to back between the oil pan and the exhaust port, pulled it up across where the clutch fork sticks out, back down between the oil pan and the exhaust port, then tied a knot, and hung the two loops on the hook. i think there might be a lift hook on the front of the motor, but i know theres none provided for the back... its not very heavy you can grab it about anywhere you want...

yeah, swap rails, 99.9% perfect match. only snag was the latch to slide forward and back. its pretty tight against the seat. i just bent it out a bit, sloppy but i have no shop or proper tools any longer. got a nice black with dark grey stripes inset for 15.00. dont tell anyone that its actually a passenger side seat. my 20 year old stock seat was really falling apart so i had to do something. first noticed the sheet metal rear outer support had gone and put some stress cracks in the floor... chopped the two remaining spot welds, and glas'd the cracks inside and out. made a new bracket and elevated the whole mess an inch. on your hatch, the seat belt is bolted to the door sill behind the seat (on the door side) and a few inches ahead of the seat belt bolt, is another same-thread hole. i used a piece of heavy angle iron, put two close fitting holes in it, ground the angle a bit to allow the triangular plate the seat belt is sewn into to pivot. s crewed the two bolts in. its 15" long. THEN (deep breath) i used the rear inner seat mount body hole and ran a piece of heavy 1x1" square tube to the angle iron. its 21" long. bought grade 5 metric bolts and nylock nuts and a few washers for kicks. completely avoided welding. i havent put the plastic door sill back on yet, probably get to that on friday. in the front i used 2" pieces of the same 1x1 set em on top of the stock bulkhead, and a piece of flat 1/4 plate with two holes drilled, one for the stock body hole, and one to keep the seat stuck to the 1x1. the nissan NX has some fairly nice seats considered the XT seats, but they are heavy and have too much junk on em. prelude seats are heavier and have too much junk on em. volkswagen seats are nice and simple, but have a bizarre mounting system. talon/eclipse/laser seats arent even close and you cannot take the rails off. i looked at two hours worth of seats, domestic and fern, and went back for the crx. eventually my digital camera might come home, and i will take some very unimpressive photos. so dont be dissapointed when it looks like cause it does. but only if you look.

had to bend the to/fro lock lever a bit.... shimmed the whole mess up an inch buckets make getting in and out a bit more difficult

probably the axel.

peugeot has two models that will bolt right up: 404, and 505 in 14" and 15" respectively. many 6 bolt truck rims will work: rim being drilled with 2 additional holes for the 4 bolt pattern, or the hub/drum/rotor being drilled for additional studs. McBrat has a set of steel pug 14" he might ship to you.....

so what have you done to replace that silly little sheet metal hut by the door on the rear of the seat slider? i noticed some flex and pulled up the carpet to find the spot welds non existant, and a tiny crack in the floor where all the stress has been going. (save your fat-*ss jokes for cartman) (ive been digging around for replacement seat and have decided to go with honda crx seat if i can find a good one. they are light, buckety and simple. the prelude ones have too much junk on em, nissan nx(?) are a close second choice. any other suggestions?) my first brace idea is: 1/4 x 2 x 12 plate bolted into the seat belt hole and the similar in front of it, welded to a 1 x 1 square tube which replaces the door side seat mount and bolts to the other rear seat mount in the floor by the driveshaft hump. might use 2x2 square and jack the seat up an inch, then would have to make a thing for the front also looks like a 3 weld concept..... (dang board editor removes the spaces in my attempts to diagram via notepad) anyone have any ideas or photos of what they've done?

i will guess its alternator/air compressor belt squeal.... more gas heats it up and it grabs.... betcha both belts are shiny and may even have cracks on the pully side... replace em and make em tight, but not too tight... should deflect about an inch across a foot of belt..

you need the pedal box also, i believe the drive shaft is the same. axels are the same also need the center console that matches the transmission. i'm in stain paul, mn too.... what yard are you visiting? im assuming you know about the www.upullrparts.com locations... also some parts to be had in the yard just north of somerset wisc.

i recently replaced the shoes in the 3dr, and suddenly the hill-holder was workin. so you might check that, or adjust your shoes.....

ea82 motors are cheap and plentiful, probably easier to replace the motor entire.

are you sure you cant helicoil by removing the radiator? if not.... you could JBWeld a stud into that hole, or attempt to make that stud removable by putting a very thin coat of never sieze on the stud before you screw it into the wet JB its certainly stronger if you just JB the stud in and leave it cure completely thats the most important part of the process... you could mix the JB a bit "hot" and it will cure more rapidly but it may be more brittle if you over do it. 1 can brake cleaner 1 JB Weld package 1 stud of appropriate metric thread/pitch 1 nylock nut to match stud OR 2 regular nuts to match stud. brake cleaner the stripped hole, dry thoroughly (qtip?)... mix up some JBWeld, put a tiny bit more hardener in than you think. using a toothpick or other small roundish stick, roll the JB into the internal threads. paint a nice even thin coat of Never Sieze onto the stud, and screw the stud in finger tight. WAIT till its cured, according to the label.... i think its 12 hours minimum if you cannot find a stud of proper length, you can always buy a longer bolt and cut the head off, then use the nut to clean up the hacked thread on the end

im gonna guess its a worn distributor shaft. its flopping around in there and throwing the timing off. just a guess

some of the belts are notched, they say it makes them more flexible.

yes you can swap them from side to side, but its not going to give you the benefit you hope... once worn, its worn..... a replacement is all that can be done. however they do last a long long time making light clicking sounds. once you start to feel vibration you have only a short time.

baking soda and a little water, then you can WD40 to remove the water

perhaps you've mixed up the fuel supply/return/vent hoses?

ugh, a brawl eh? hmmmm might have to try it then. hate that crap... LOL

wonder if that brown rx in somerset has em... wonder if they are a congealed mass of rust, and wonder if madman can be reasonable when the $ issue is raised. ( i'd be happy to pay upullrparts.com prices) actually, ive just put shoes in both the subes, so they might be good for the remainder of their time on earth (or mine).

I've never noticed a difference in mileage fwd/4x4 transmissions. in a later 80's spfi 4x4 wagon towing a hatchback the mileage did drop from 32 down to 29 on a 5 hour drive through the hills of western wisconsin. thats the only difference ive seen. oh, an oil soaked air filter seems to put a dent in also...

mine was already puckery and wrinkled, so i just trimmed it off just below the ridge under the bumper,and fibreglas'd the edges for stiffness and rust prevention.

axel nut tight? ive heard they can strip the splines out of the hub... easy to check hope its axel and not tranzzzzmisery

major difference is the e-brake is part of the front caliper. so you have to screw the automatic adjuster in before you install new pads. (i would much rather have the ebrake on the rear wheels, but saab did the same thing so im used to it) on older rear wheel drive cars, the front discs were easier than drum because there was no springs and levers to fiddle with. you just used a C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper and you were ready. the ebrake was in the rear drums.

oh super! that sounds like an offer... i will bring it round and you can tell me when youre done... what a guy

ok, here's a hint: make sure the adjuster is near the access hole, and will release when pushed from the access hole direction. should have remembered this or been able to use reason eh?

drum brakes on ea82, the self adjuster device.... on the drivers side, the ratchet pivot is placed behind the shoe, and toward the rear of the car. i installed the passenger side with the pivot outside the shoe and toward the front of the car. did i get the passenger side in correctly?