Humble Nuto 53

ever get into that car? just gotta know

if the pull changes with accel/decel you might have split a suspension rubber piece... like the swingarm pivot, or leading rod bushing. might be hard to detect the split without lots of light under there thats my first guess, i guess

this might be a bit late, and maybe inaccessible BUT PJ1 Blue Label its an effervescent motorcycle chain lube. (goes on bubbly and very thin, then dries tacky. on the chain the trick is to wipe off the excess, then the dirt doesnt stick. i use it on the bicycles also, even in winter.) wipe your surfaces, spray both the parts, let em set a while or use a dryer or hot air gun, and i believe they will stick even upsidedown. wynn's viscotene is similar but i havent seen that stuff around in years.

take it apart, and do it right. screw the parking brake thingies back in, then properly bleed the entire system.

you would be surprised how few keys open how many subes.... hate to let that little secret out... i have two keys that have opened every one ive tried... also you could twist together a few coat hangers for stiffness, and put a hook at the far end, sort of like a check mark or division symbol... hook the key from the ignition, rotate the coat hanger so it passes below the second bend (will help from falling off) and pull back through. i did this through the upper rear corner of the passenger window on a wagon. probably your best bet.... i used three coat hangers... two mostly side by side and the third one sticking out farther with the two bends in it. i did cheat and use a pliers to do some of the twisting so it would be reliable.

maybe you got ceramic pads instead of semi-metalic?

probably the drivers side timing belt broke. take the distributor cap off, and try to start it... if your distributor rotor isnt turning then you know the belt broke.. drivers side belt cost me 22.00, passenger side was 18.00 most backyard mechanics can do the work to replace the belt. last time i did one it took 45 minutes total. there are instructions on this board, do a search for "timing belt" three key points: *distributor should be on cylinder #1 at Top Dead Center on compression stroke *flywheel has ignition timing marks AND also three hash marks, choose center hash mark *one cam cog should have the dot up, and one should have the dot down. your choice remove the clutch fan, 4 10mm nuts drain cooling system, drain on bottom passenger side remove grill, radiator remove crank pulley (i think its a 17mm or 19mm) put a punch or screw driver in one of the holes in the flywheel to prevent it turning. lousy plastic timing belt covers are the worst part of the job, i removed em completely and tossed em in the trash. dont over tension the belts, but dont leave them loose at all dont be shy with questions... theres probably a few photos of the front of your engine without belt covers in the gallery section

if it doesnt change sound when you step on the brakes it might be a wheel bearing. or still could be brakes, some pads have a little metal spring or scraper that drags on the rotor to tell you its time to spend some money. the scraper usually doesnt change when the brakes are applied (your experience may vary) sometimes if the axel nut is loose you can get a brake squeak that changes when you turn the car... might even be coming from a loose belt or dying alternator or waterpump, does the sound only occur while moving/does sound change with motor rpm either way i would expect the repair to be cheap and home made

back in the late 70's gm alternators were famous for leaking. hate to admint my i had a pontiac grand lemonz (ha!) that would drain the battery if it wasnt driven every few days.... put an ammeter inline with your alternator and you will see its pulling juice even though your ignition is OFF not to helpful but its a start

at 104k your motor has years left in it... i would do gaskets, since youre nearly finished sealing it anyway... 104 k is nothing for these things...

i just turned 200k in the 86 3dr cpe

aaaaaaawwwwwwwww, its lufff, trrrrroow luff... (you also installed a genuine soob termoztadt no? say yes...)

nope, no such luck, have to make some kind of adaptor so the snorkel has a surface to be clamped to... i havent done any work on this yet. just turning over the ideas still

yeah, good question, i cant find those oval air filters here anymore was thinking about using an spfi snorkel and a k&n cone or?

so this IS the authoritive silver bullet to the TOD?

LOL, i know the feeling... never hurts to double check, triple, DOH

not hard, just make sure you get the spring compressor to hook securely... took maybe 15 minutes per side.....

anyone have the total width of the ea81 motor from valve cover to valve cover? also looking for the distance from the axel to the front of the motor, perhaps the water pump pulley is the furthest forward component.... thanks

weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeel.... i used a mcphearson strut spring compressor and snagged the spring on one side, and just kept cranking it till i could move the adjuster collar. also heard you can just loosen nut which secures the spring and theres enough slack to be able to relieve the spring tension without removing anything completely...

check the rubber pieces under the hood on that side, theres a small shelf just below the windshield with a large rubbery thing might leak... also check inside under dash on passenger side, theres a rubbery drain for the air conditioner, should go through the floor to outside. might be leaking.... i had a 1967 mustang (what a piece of crap car that was) the compartment air intake grill in front of the windshield didnt have internal sides that were high enough, and if it rained heavy or you turned suddenly, it would slosh over and drip right on your ankles perhaps the squirrels or other rodents have clogged your drains in there? seen windshield loose enough to let some water in. just re glued my windscreen in my ea82... thats about all i can think of

if your radiator cap isnt holding pressure that can cause overheating too

agony sheer agony what would you want for the back seat from that blue hatch? lookin for one in excellent condition (has to be good enough to justify all the misery involved) gotta pack it and ship it to 55129 in minnesota :^P cant find any ea81's here anymore

rotational is normal, its the vacuum advance travel.... (unless your rotor has come loose and thrown your timing off) ive heard of some distributors having a rotor with a set screw in it havent seen that yet myself a timing light would be another quick test you could perform, just to see where it is...

couple shots in the dark.... there's two filters, one by the pump, and a separator up by the brake booster. could be the fuel pump going out too.... get a large glass bottle and see how much the pump is putting out, then maybe test the actual pressure with a gauge. (if you put your thumb over the hose, and spray it like the garden hose might tell you if its got enough pressure.) might be an ignition problem, like the cap/rotor or coil or ignitor going out also.. pop your distributor cap off and wiggle the rotor, if its sloppy that is probably the issue. to test coil pull a plug and put it back into the wire, see if youre getting a nice sharp blue spark.... also, memory fails again, but perhaps its a carb issue. if the secondary isnt opening that might cause some hick-coughing... easy to test... i dont know if the sube carbs have a "power valve" just a tiny pump to give it a squirt every time you step on the gas... random off the cuff stuff

oversized nipple (snicker) actually not a bad idea