Humble Nuto 53

buy one, and install it..... your oil pump has two threaded passages for this purpose. one for the idiot light, and one for a pressure gauge. next time you change oil, you can unscrew one or both and take em with so you get the proper threaded gauge. the stock gauges are notoriously innacurate, as is my speeling of late.

pm your address and i will mail two of em

yeah i would recommend a run to a junkyard, these cars are still fairly popular, and the entire knuckle assy should be under 20.00. unbolt the ball joint and pop that out, or replace the knuckle and control arm together.... everything unbolts except the wheel bearings (unless you have a bit of bad luck) odd you ran into rust out there. minnesota uses salt and has high humidity in the summer, its prime weather for rust, and i seldom break bolts or have to use torch. surely someone has some laying about, if you were here i could give you spares, but who wants to drive all the way out?

nylock nuts are fine...

short term memory? whats that? anyone have photos of the trim around the windshield on 3 door coupe body? different than wagon, and sedan from what i can tell... seems ive misplaced the two lower corners, or something experienced shrinkage in the wash.

i have an 86 hatch: approximately 35" outside to outside, oval holes are approx 3/4x1.5"

tap is designed to cut new tight perfect threads chaser is designed to clean up and correct threads, much sloppier fit, and much easier to engage correctly.

you could buy a "thread chaser" and try to clean up the threads in the head...

surging? hmmmmm http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h61.pdf too much EGR, interesting. i havent had the classic sube-surge issues on any subes ive owned. but i have noticed an increase in detonation since i removed all that plumbing on the carbed ea82.

really shouldnt tow newer ( say 1975+ or so ) with a sling style tow... none of em are built like they used to be and it will bend the bumper and/or the crumple zone popcan that the bumper is mounted on.... the stamping that the hood release is mounted on is quite flimsy itself, and once you get the hood open you can easily "adjust" it with a large channel-lock pliers, or similar tool. i believe the release mechanism has become tilted and is mildly binding....

www.deltacam.com

tick tick is probably not pumped up with oil yet.... do a search for timing belt install... double check that. i dont thing you have to pull the head yet, few minutes search and double check your work... might get lucky

replace the bent components, either the arm or the entire tube.... then beat the bleep out of the sheet metal, and undercoat it... oh baby, u be STY-lin (as in pig sty)

eh... subaru muffler assemblies have a unique bend in them which would require some additional parts to install an aftermarket, unless youre going to saw the old muffler off close to the muffler itself..... keeping the bolt on pipe intact. you might ask around for a used one, they are very easy to remove, two bolts, and two rubber hangers... i have two different diameter mufflers for ea82 wagon/3drcpe: small: "TruFit" 18400 6.5" muffler can diameter, 13" muffler can length, plus 21" tailpipe large: appears to be stock 9" muffler can diameter, 13.5" muffler can length plus tailpipe diameter of incoming pipe depends on where you cut it.... www.walkerexhaust.com for part numbers

anyone have leads on manual rack rebuild parts? prefer to DIY rather than just buy thx

yeah they would work, but man thats a heap of pennies for lousy old chevy rims

can cause oddities like slipping, and the classic engagement shudder.

bout the only thing i can think of is making sure you have your flywheel machined. essential step, sometimes overlooked. makes it nice and flat again instead of blue and ripply. if you get really desperate im only about 4 hours east of you

so... between ea81 and ea82 is the rack swapable? manual to manual power to power im hoping they would bolt to same dimentions with only the inner tie rods being longer on the ea82 anyone know for sure? anyone have tight ea82 manual rack for sale? anyone know if there are rebush parts available for either? i can get a rebuilt ea82 manual with new inner ties for 160.00 which is cheap, because i paid 56.00 each for inner ties for ea81

look under the master cylinder, where it bolts to the vacuum booster. is there any rust on the booster? or is there any fluid running down there? ive seen a few leaks at the rear of the master cylinder, and the vacuum booster was sucking up the fluid.... just a thought

various cures: a can of coke or pepsi.... phosphoric acid.. specially designed "battery terminal brush" baking soda and water one or all

prybar? eh, dare i ask? lol

the belt replacement can be performed with a minimum of tools and patience if one has guidance/instruction. theres plenty photographic portrayal of the elements involved. those cotton garden gloves work well for protecting the meaty parts involved. you dont even have to drain the radiator, there will be some spillage... belt replacement isnt a hideous monster as far as car repair/maintenance goes. ive heard some parts stores lend tools also... i believe the only tool not found in most tool boxes would be a socket large enough for the crank bolt

get me there and back, (from minneapolis) and feed me..... you dont even have to put me up overnight. im going to get carpal tunnel syndrome from twiddling my thumbs... belts are quite easy even with the radiator in, you dont need the springs on the tensioners belts are 20.00 and 22.00 each the most difficult part of the job is either those lousy embedded nuts in the covers, or the crank bolt. i just did this on one of mine in june, i think it was 45 minutes but i had the covers removed already. betcha miles would LOVE a gig like this.....

waaaay back when stretchy wrap first came out, i had a roll maybe four inches wide... i was driving saab 99.... inner joint was clicking with ripped boot... i used the stretchy wrap to cover the whole mess, turned the wheel backwards and pulled the wrap fairly tight... went over it several times. lasted all winter that way. those CV joints will usually make months of racket before they give up completely.