86BRATMAN

If you have access to a pair of ej25d heads you can remove the 14mm head bolt that plugs the galley where the oil feed banjo bolt goes on the turbo heads. There is one in each head, use one for the oil feed galley and the other for the coolant feed galley. Simply put a cap over the turbo oil drain fitting and clamp it down. If you don't have easy access to those heads message me an address and I'll pull them from a pair of junk heads I have and send them to you.

I didn't have time today to get pics for you, I'll get them tomorrow evening after work.

I was only able to get the upper mounts, the lower ones are made from thin bent sheet metal with a net welded on the back side. And all 3 brats that were there had those brackets either too rusty or too bent to be of any use. I'll get some pics of the brackets I got for you tomorrow evening, I got called into work this evening to cover for someone who was sick and have to go back to open up in the morning. Story of managing a restaurant

That's completely broken, the end is supposed to be capped off with a little sliding latch piece. I have a couple non broken ones that I've coaxed back into function with penetrating oil and white lithium grease. I'll see about snapping a couple pics for you when I get back into my building.

Sorry I didn't get this posted yesterday, been a hectic couple weeks. It's looking like Wednesday will be when I get to the junkyard, if nothing else goes wrong, so I'll update you again afterwards.

I'll try to get out to my building and snap a couple pics of the badge this evening. There may actually be some pics of it on the forum, I had a for sale post a couple years ago with a bunch of ea81 parts and several brat specific things.

Which emblem are you looking for on the tailgate? There are 3, the BRAT 4wd on the lower left, the Subaru gl on the upper right, and the Subaru logo on the handle. I have a BRAT 4wd badge that needs to be painted because it's pretty faded. I also have a Subaru GL and a Subaru TURBO badge for the upper left but I'm unsure of their condition as it's been a while since I laid eyes on them. I can't swear that any of the brats there have rear bumpers but I'll definitely check them for you. I had a hard time finding those little bumplets when I had my last brat in 07/08. Are you needing the jump seat frame as well? That may be a little harder to remove and ship but I can make it happen if need be.

I want to say they are the same, but I'm not positive about that. I'm going to a junkyard that has a couple 2nd gen brats in it one day this week. At least one of them has the mounts and I think the seat rails still intact. If you'd like I can get the parts off of it for you. Also here is a thread with good measurements for the mount brackets and seat belt locations. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141474-installing-bed-seats-in-a-1987-brat/

If you find a donor just drill the spot welds for the oem mounts, there are three spot welds on the top ones and two on the bottom.

I'm not sure of their exact purpose, but I do know they are not mounted in the same spot as the head rests. The head rests were a couple inches towards the outside from those rails. If you look closely at the body you can see where the rail mounts would have been located. On my old 86 someone had riveted the head rest mounts to the body when they installed the jump seats.

You may be right, I've only ever had the brat/hatch parts books. Fsm's and parts books are pretty hard to come by for these nowadays.

There was a post not too long ago saying that the wagon rear window gasket was still available from the dealer. And your wagon uses the same front gasket as the brat and other Ea81 bodies, except the hardtop coupe which has different trim molding.

V5/v6 don't have tgvs, and those red injectors will work in place of the yellows that will be in the Jdm engine.

They were turbocharged overseas in the gt-b and rs. But the scoop is fairly small on them, and doesn't do a very good job of cooling the intercooler. If it was me I'd go for a 2.5rs or wrx hood as a scoop donor. You can find the splitter, which is the piece that seals to the intercooler to help efficiency, pretty easily for them. If I remember correctly the gc era wrx and forester turbo hood both used the same splitters. There is a guy on rs25.com that has them for sale pretty frequently, screen name is jdm Gary.

There isn't a 95-99 22t, only the 22e and ej222. But no, their map sensor won't work with your ecu. I'd post up on bbs.legacycentral.org first and see if anyone has a good used one for sale there. It's an uncommon failure, but with the parts of getting as old as they are I'm sure we'll start seeing more of this type of failure. On a side note, do you have any pictures of your swap? I'm preparing to ej22t swap my 84 coupe and am looking for ideas on sensor mounting and such.

Definitely the sensor then. There isn't a way to bypass it to get out of limp mode. You'll have to find either a good used sensor for a 22t or for a jdm ej20g from 89-96 or buy a new one, which I think is fairly expensive.

Which end are you testing for voltage on, the ecu side or the map sensor side?

If you look into the people using the v5/v6 swaps in place of usdm ej205's you'll see they all have to change their cam/crank gears and use the stock intake manifold because they aren't compatible with the usdm ecu.

I've never seen a usdm ej25 from 99-04 using the 31-1-1 pattern, only the 99-01 ej222. V5/v6 uses 6/7, and the same style sensors as your existing engine. V7+ ej205/207 uses 31-1-1 like the 02+ usdm ej205.

B48-4 is the signal from the map sensor to the ecu. You're thinking of it backwards. The ecu sends power from B48-3 to the map sensor, it then gives a reading to the ecu through B48-4. You likely have a short in that signal wire or a bad map sensor.

The issue with using that manifold is that your existing injectors are top feed and that manifold is set up for sidefeed. The problem with the sohc gears is a year/engine thing. Starting in 03 on some ej251/3 engines Subaru used the 31-1-1 trigger pattern like the ej222, ej205, and ej255/7 engines have. Almost every jdm phase 2 ej20 engine I've swapped have the 31-1-1 pattern too. It's just easier to advise people to use their original gears when doing an engine swap than it is to take a chance on them being different.

With a full v5/v6 ej205 swap you wouldn't need to swap the crank gear. They have the 6/7 trigger pattern like what your ecu is expected to see already. The intake manifolds will swap over with a couple minor mods, you'll have to extend the wiring for the coolant temperature sensor at least because it's on the opposite side of the crossover. And, no neither engine came with avcs until the v7 models.

The ej222 heads have the exact same combustion chamber as the 251 heads, so those won't work for you either. You're going to be limited to ej20 heads. You can run ej205 heads on the 01 ecu, but you'll need to use the stock ej251 crank timing gear and find a left hand intake cam gear from a jdm v5/v6 ej205 or ej207 for the trigger pattern to match what the ecu needs.

Ej251 chambers are 97mm wide, you will have an extreme mismatch using them on a 92mm bore. The ej20 gaskets have a bore diameter of 93mm.

Yes the bulkhead harness has the ecu and tcu. You'll have to pull the dash, heater core, and move the ac evaporator box a couple inches to get the harness out. It is not an easy job by any means, last one I did I think it took me somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 hours. I've done several of them for turbo engine swaps over the years. The problem with the starting is likely the coolant temperature sensor, there is no "cold start sensor".