86BRATMAN

Have you made any more progress on this project?

We had difficulty finding a brat/wagon tank in the late 90's for my first brat. We ended up doing the same with a hatch tank because a local Subaru nut had a solid one laying around that he sold to us for next to nothing. The smaller tank was definitely annoying because of having to stop at the pump more often, but it was worlds better than only holding half a tank of fuel lol.

Historic section still only applies to the 70's cars last time I checked.

I haven't seen a new ea81 gas tank for sale in at least a decade.

Following up on Sapper's post, leave the oil filter attached to the pump to give yourself leverage to wiggle the pump free.

The 84 will have an ea81. There is no Mickey Mouse or cam seals to replace on this one. If you order a new oil pump from Subaru there will not be any o-rings or gaskets included. I can't say whether or not they would be with an aftermarket pump replacement.

The largest glaring issue that I can see is putting ej22 liners in an ej20 case. It's going to leave you with a cylinder wall that is approximately 5mm thick including the new liner (I have no idea how thick those actually are so you may have no aluminum casting left to support the liner).

You're probably thinking of the any ej25 with 18e/22e heads. The E heads have an oddball coolant port design. Cometic makes a gasket for that application though.

The ignitor is built into the coil on phase 2 cars like yours.

The other things you would need to swap between engines are the crankshaft timing gear and the coolant temperature sensor. The timing gear is most likely a different trigger pattern, and the coolant temperature sensor plug is also different. There may be a difference in the pcv valve arrangement, some of the newer engines have the pcv valve screwed into the crankcase vent instead of the intake manifold. But that won't be too hard to deal with either.

It'll be 9.25:1 with sohc ej25 heads, 1.3mm ej25d head gaskets and shortblock. A little down on power, but definitely runable

The better question is what year legacy is the engine going to be put in.

The 05-09 legacys are canbus, and have the immobilizer system. Your options are to find an 04 sti of forester xt wiring system and ecu, only those two will work easily because they aren't not canbus or immobilizer equipped, or go with a standalone.

What rings do you have now?

The stud length and knurl size are slightly different. Legacy type studs are much more available than the xt6 style. XT6 M12-1.25 Serrated Wheel Stud; 12.45mm Knurl; 43mm Length Legacy M12-1.25 Serrated Wheel Stud; 14.43mm Knurl; 41.5mm Length

For that price I would buy it and see what happens.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156161-xt6-rear-hubs-eoi-in-5x100-5x1143/page-6?do=findComment&comment=1342777 You can modify ej rear backing plates to bolt to the ea trailing arm. Pictures of that can be found online, very similar to the crossbred kit but it's diy. This allows you to use virtually any ej era rear brake setup. Along with the rear parking brake system using impreza cables and handle. For the front, I am running outer cv's from a company called Febest, they seem to be well made and I've had no issues with clicking or other issues commonly found with aftermarket axles. They've been in service for about 6 months now so time will tell. The outer joints are for an early legacy, with the 22 spline axle shaft which happened to fit my ea81 axles perfectly. I can dig up the link to them if you need me to, but they weren't terribly hard to find. They also sell the inner joint that can be used for the 25 spline ea82t or ej transmission if you go that route down the road. I'm running one knuckle from a 92 legacy turbo, and another from a 99 2.5rs impreza. With kyb shocks made for the 93-01 impreza, coilover sleeves with 250 lb/in springs and modified ea81 top mounts. I'm looking for a better solution for the top mounts because there is no bearing in them like there is on the ea82 and ej top mounts. You'll also need to ream the control arm for the ej ball joint. The stock ea taper is 7° and the ej taper is 10°, reamers can be purchased online or this can be done by a machinist. Currently running 04 wrx 2 piston front brakes, and standard single piston legacy rears. The pedal feel is much better than stock, even with my stock master cylinder and booster. Once winter has passed I will be swapping to an impreza single diaphragm booster and 2 port master, my car is 3at so no 3 port hill holder master to deal with. If you have any other questions, or if I missed anything feel free to ask. Any pics of stuff actually installed will be delayed because the car is in storage for the winter season away from my home.

Model year changeovers get confusing. Anything made after 6/98 is a 99 model year, and that is why a lot of people think they've seen phase 2 stuff in 98 model year cars. To my understanding of the vtd system, it doesn't use a duty c solenoid. At least not in the same application as standard 4eats at least. Granted I don't know very much about them, other than they don't have the typical fwd fuse the regular 4eat cars have.

No phase 1 4eat has the spin on filter, that's indicative of phase 2. The polarity of the duty c was swapped for the 04 model year. That's why I specified the 99-03 4.44 transmission as a direct replacement. In my head I typed legacy gt and outback, but I guess my fingers didn't get the message lol.

No, the 98 is a phase 1 4eat, and the 99 is a phase 2 4eat. The two are not electronically compatible. For the 99 you'll need a 99-03 4.44 final drive 4eat from a legacy gt, impreza rs, or forester.

Easiest fix for the trans is going to be replacing it. Either with a lower mileage 95-98 ej22 auto which will have be a direct replacement or with a 96-98 ej25 auto which will require swapping the rear diff to match the final drive ratio. It's not uncommon for them to lose reverse with high mileage, I see several Subarus for sale with no reverse every spring after a rough winter. People get hung up and rock the car out and burn up the reverse clutches.

Unfortunately a budget of $2000 will only get you so far with performance upgrades. For that money you could throw together a dohc swap and diy turbo. But with the mileage I wouldn't expect the bottom end to last very long after being turbocharged. Another option would be to do a budget high compression ej25. Start with a lower mileage ej251 and use 97-99 ej25d heads and manifold. Makes for a relatively quick na car.

You could be looking at a fuse, there are a couple different ones that it could be, check both the under hood and cabin fuse boxes for blown fuses. I've also seen a blown main relay cause symptoms like this as well.

When you turn the key to the on position does the cel turn on in the cluster?

Yeah, Forrest is his name not Dalton. I have trouble matching real names to screen names if it's not someone I've talked to often lol.