MTSuby

Great, thanks. So the TI suspension thing (air lift suspension option) isn't a money sink? Just curious if it's more of a problem than it's worth. Also curious about the new clutch with such low mileage. The 94 is a 3-hour drive, 95's a 1 1/2 hour drive...but it sounds like it might be worth the drive to check them both out. Thanks again!

Both models for sale right now, and I'm looking for a good reliable Montana car because my 83 Toyota just won't be reliable no matter what I do Are there any big things to look out for on these cars? Any reason to avoid these years or models all together? I checked the FAQ but without a ton of searching I don't see much on this stuff specifically. Thanks! I had an 87 a few years back but sold it for the Toyota. Love the Toyota, but wish I had kept the GL as a backup. Now I want something that can reliably get me out of town. The 94 ti wagon has 125K, new clutch & water pump. 95 has 163K.

Thanks GD. I'll get in there and look around to make sure nothing looks damaged or out of place.

Thanks, I'll check that.

Today it died on me again. Right in an intersection Lots of smoke coming out the back once I had been trying to crank it over for a while. Is that just all the fuel burning in the exhaust since it's not igniting? Anyway, any advice on what would cause it run ok, then suddenly need the gas pedal depressed in order to keep running, and sometimes stall and not start? Cranked fine, just wouldn't fire. I'm guessing when I go back to it in a couple hours it'll start right up.

Well............here's the deal with this car. I love it, but I just love Toyota trucks better. I've got an '83 sitting in my garage right now. Just waiting for the engine to get back from the machine shop. Once the truck is up and running, the Subie's getting sold. So.....I don't want to put too much work into it. I DO want to sell it running, and running somewhat well, so I'm willing to replace a couple cheaper easier parts in the carb if that will help. So....it's got more power than usual, but yesterday on the way home from work it was dying again. If I didn't keep my foot on the gas it died. It got me to work this morning, but off and on, same thing, I'd have to keep my foot on the gas or it would die. I'll check out that link, thanks. Does this sound like a familiar problem? I meant to bring my repair manual to work to read up and they symptoms....but of course I forgot. Thanks a lot everbody. Oh, yeah, and if there's anyone in or near Montana looking for a good (aside from some carb issues) 87 Subaru.....It'll be under $1000.

I did a little searching..... I know I have carb problems but..I think my accelerator pump is going out, I've got a serious stumble off a start. Here's what's happening lately. Less of a stumble...my car died while I was at a light today. It started right back up, but it was hard. All day it's taken a lot of gas and I've had to turn the key for a while to get it to start. When I got back to work & shut it off it dieseled for a bit. So there's an "anti-dieseling" valve or something? This is something I can check out pretty easily?

You'll know once you've pulled the oil pan. I don't know if I'd get one before seeing if it needed it, though, unless you've got to go a real long way to get to a parts store and don't have another car or friend to get you there..

Huh. I guess I had it in for around 40,000 miles in my '86. Could have done a little damage but I didn't notice it. Good to know.

I've had good luck with them in Toyotas...or at least no problems. I figure it could be a gimmick, but if I spend $45 on an air filter then never buy another one again and never throw out another one again, it's worth it, as long as it doesn't hurt anything, which apparently it could......... My non-opinion

Hmmm...so I need some kind of "injector" hooked up to my transmission or engine, and when I'm being chased, it injects synthetic oil in. Of course just having a switch that drained my oil would do the same thing...

Yeah, I'd love to see what would happen if I suddenly switched to synthetic on my '83 toyota pickup. I'd probably start spraying oil onto the road.

Thanks!

Found it. 1 qt Redline Lightweight Shockproof 1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w90 So I just drain a little fluid out and add this?

I read in a thread here which I can't find now about some additive that will help ressurect a dying tranny..anybody know of the stuff? I've got a lot of noise in my transmission, it'll need to be replaced before long, but I wonder if I can get some more life out of it. Thanks!

Yeah, it'd be great if it was a fairly uncomplicated proceedure... As far as the timing, I'm not the best one to ask, but I think the best timing is the one that makes your car run it's best. It varies slightly in different elevations, etc....

Ok, since I'm fairly certain that this is my problem with my lack of power and my 23mph highway..is there a write up on exactly that? Removing the feedback system and jetting it so it works without it? I'm guessing my carb could use a rebuild too, but I wouldn't mind starting with getting rid of the feedback to see where that gets me.

Ok Ok! I'll change them. This reminds me...anyone have luck with a full size spare in the engine compartment of a carbed wagon? I can't get mine to fit.

Yeah, I guess you're right. Thanks everyone!

I can see some cracks in the top of parts of my drive belts, but they're really shallow cracks. Time to change them anyways, or are they good for a bit? They've really only got around 10,000 miles on them.

Ok, thank you. I'm showing my ignorance, but my car is an 87, and it's got a feedback carb? and I can install a non-feedback carb from a car of the same year? The dealership told me a rebuild kit for my car would be around $85.

Ok, thanks everybody. So with O2 sensors, we aren't so worried about OEM? I'll check what they are at Napa. Good possibility I've got more carb problems than anything else, but I'm just not sure that I want to rebuild it or do the weber swap. I'm doing my best to not spend much money on this car. Carb rebuild would be pretty cheap, but we'll see..

I went to the dealership to get a pcv valve and an O2 sensor. I've got power & gas mileage issues and I'm trying to start by replacing cheap easy things and moving up. Well first, an O2 sensor is over $100!? Didn't realize that. The parts person told me that with carbed models (like mine) the O2 sensor doesn't really cause the problems it may on later models. True? I figure if the dealership is telling me "don't bother spending the money, it's not a big deal in your car", they're probably telling me the truth? '87 GL Wagon. Thanks!

Thanks everyone. Looks like I just have bad luck with nails & screws, so it's not the tires fault!

Great! I've got until next fall before they'll need to be replaced, but I won't count another set of Coopers out when I do buy new ones.