BigMattyD

I Installed a NAPA replacement axle, and it has rocked the house for two years in my 96 Legacy. No Probs whatsoever. Big D Out...

That's the thing... they would rather not give you the information. They want you to take it somewhere to get it fixed, preferably a "Genuine Subaru-Approved Repair Facility, i.e the Dealer" to get it fixed... matt

Maybe since you got the work done, you've been hopped up with excitement and been driving more aggressively.... matt

I'm pretty sure this person knows "lefty,loosey, righty tighty!!" The problem is that some people's axle nuts are harder to remove than others. Mine was actually easy to remove, but I have read many posts where the nut had to be cut off or the car taken to a truck garage to be blasted with a heavy duty impact wrench. It all depends on your particular situation. matt

This sounds suspiciously similar to what happened to me last year. Read this thread, and see if it may apply to you... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34929&highlight=tick Matt

Consider buying OEM pads online. They come with new shims and clips, and are very good quality. I used the cheap ones for a whhile, about 1 set every 18 months, and they would often squeal, etc. I recently went back to Subaru parts, and it is far better. I got mine at subarugenuineparts.com matt

They drove the car up onto some two by fours???

Of course double check the plugs and wires, but also look for vacuum leaks, especially the 3/4 inch hose that attaches to the air intake assembly near the air flow sensor. Once I forgot to reinstall that hose, and the car would barely start, or it would start and immediately die. I don't know the specifics of your intake system, but I have heard others speak of this hose causing problems. matt

Don't forget to add a turbocharger. matt

Nipper, I had steering wheel shimmy when braking from high speed, and it was intermittent like yours. It lasted several years until I replaced the front rotors, then it stopped. I didn't originally think it was the rotors because it didn't happen all the time, but alas, it seemed to do the trick. I did not change the tires at the same time, if anyone was wondering. Matt

Need an update please... matt

OBD II is great as long as everything is working when you need the car inspected... Actually, having a somewhat universal system for all types of automobiles is a good thing, and the fact that you can use aftermarket readers to monitor/diagnose is excellent. Being able to read sensor outputs is also cool. But having to have it working at the time of inspection can be a hassle, as you found out. Matt P.S. I also think people should update with solutions to their problems, and it seems that a lot of people already do..

I would probably just wipe it off as best you can with a clean rag, when you run the engine again, it should polish itself up real quick. Kind of like brake rotors... Matt

Now get out there and replace it!!! good job on the H2O trick. thumbs up to your wife who knew where the CPS was. matt

Well, I'm officially in tthe market for an air compressor now. There is a model on sale at sears now, around 20-30 gal tank, comes with a basic tool set for 279.99. I'm putting it on my Christmas wish list... Hopefully I'll get it before Christmas, though. matt

Yes, unfortunately I believe you are wrong. The oil thins as temperature increases. The difference between "multi viscosity" oils is not that they don't obey the laws of physics, but that they still thicken when cold, but not to the degree a single viscosity oil would. matt

The interesting part to me is that on the same car, in the same area of the car, that there can be so much difference in the difficulty removing bolts due to rust, etc. On my car, the difficulty scale has been as follows: Impossible: Ball joint pinch bolt and strut bolts Very difficult: Front control arm bushing bolt, one of the two rear bushing bolts Moderately Difficult: Sway bar link bolt, Brake caliper mounting bolts, one of two rear control arm bushing bolts Easy: Axle Nut, roll pin, lower brake caliper pin. matt

My bad. I did not look up the code, to find out that it was O2 sensor slow response. The only other thing to do is check for exhaust leaks prior to the O2 sensor, which you would probably be hearing already!!! I agree with the others. If it fails to clear up, try another O2 sensor. Maybe OEM if available. But I would try resetting the CEL once or twice more. Maybe the new sensor needs time to "break in..." Matt

I don't think anyone was quetioning you hammer technique as "caveman-style," In fact I think he was saying the hammer technique is a good one, but that air tools are great as well. Next time, I may try the hammer technique, as it would be quicker, and fewer parts to disassemble/reassemble. Matt

To me, the noise does not sound like valve lifter ticking, it is too loud, and more of a clanking than a ticking or tapping. I have had experience with valve lifter ticking, and it is a much more staccato ticking, with no "ringing" afterward. Now anything is possible. It may be the lifters after all, but I know mine didn't sound anything like that. Matt

I tried to remove the strut on the first attempt, but I couldn't get those bolts to move. I think the lesson here, besides using an impact wrench, is to find whichever parts you can remove to give you slack. If you have to get it done in one day, I would jack up the car first and see if you can loosen the needed suspension components to allow you to complete the job. Once you are sure you can get them apart, you can commit to the actual removal and replacement. matt

on my 96 legacy, the FSM states 65 +/-7 fl/lbs it seems low, but it works matt

The job is done. I gave a brief thought to working on the pinch bolt and strut bolts again today. I heated up the pinch bolt with a torch but it made no difference. Using a good quality 6 point socket, I was still unable to budge it, and the corners were rounding off. I thought about removing the castle nut from the ball joint and separating the control arm there (this was before I read the post from Mikevan,) but decided not to because I didn't want to chance screwing up the ball joint since I knew I would not be able to easily replace it. I removed the top bolt from the sway bar bushing relatively easily, then moved to the front bushing for the control arm, or A-arm, etc. That took some serious torque to break free, but then was relatively easy to remove. I then loosened, but did not fully remove the two bolts that secure the rear bushing of the control arm. This gave plenty of wiggle room to get the old axle out, and put the new axle in. The old axle slid right out like it was brand new. I was actually very surprised. The outer boot was torn, which is why I replaced it. I plan to clean up the joint later. If it is still in good condition, as I believe it will be, I will replace the boot with a new one, and I'll have a spare axle on hand. I can't wait till I can get a compressor and impact wrench. My back is really sore from pulling on those wrenches tonight. Thanks to my USMB support group for weary do-it-yourself mechanics. Matt D

You should also check the connnection between the sensor and the ECU. If you replace the sensor, but there is no connection, you will still be having a problem. Your first post did not explain whether or not you had checked the wiring. matt

I have a simple general purpose propane torch. I am hoping that given time and PB Blaster, I won't have to heat them, but I will if I have to. I have heard that heating it as quickly as possible and then dousing it with water creates some thermal shock that helps to break the rust bond. Some people say heat it up, then remove it while its still hot... Well, I'll get to it another day. Matt