opelsuby

Well. Since my soober isn't up and running at this point I can't weigh in on synth on mine but............ I do run it in my 94 Bravada. It rocks!! Up North we have extreme temp differences. Sometimes 60+ degree swing in 24 hours. Synth is so much better for cold morning startups. It stays cleaner much longer too. I don't use it my oil burning(no leaks) 90 GMC 1/2 ton though. For that I drop in some of the Lucas brand oil treatment. It works super. Try the stuff in with your oil if you have leaks. They also make a kick butt fuel additive. Watch out though. You'll probably be changing a fuel filter but quick from all the crap it busts loose.

Hey can I just splice into the negative wire of the fuel pump and run a ire to the chassis for a ground?

I will try a separate ground. But, if there is no inertia switch for my rig, then what are they selling at the auto parts tores that lists one for mine?

have received a new volt age regulator. Will try that. If this deosn't work maybe I'll just hotwire direct the thing to a toggle switch!!! Alternator checked out fine.

Thanks NorthWet. Am now offically smarter than before. Sounds like I will be in business.

O.k. now I am confused. I looked that one up and it says set point is 14.3 volts. The one on mine has stamped 12v. i hvae no idea hwat a set point is soooooooo, would the one you recommended be o.k.? Why does mine say 12v?:-\

I need a new external voltage regulator. The numbers on mine TL1Z-94E 12V 011 It is a hitachi. I can't find this hitachi part. I did find a straight 94 (without the E on the end). Not sure what the E means though. I can't find a cross reference out there for this one. In doing a part search at different vendors, I come up with a gaggle of different regulators. Can anyone recommend one that will work? Brand and part number would be helpful.

Arrgh. Installed the new fuel pump today. No joy. Fuel pump doesn't seem to be running. I turn the key just before engaging the starter (you know the position that lights up the dash) and put my hand on the pump. Nothing. Yet, when I turn the key to start and have the meter hooked up the needle moves. Is the pump supposed to run prior to engaging the starter? I guess am going to have to check the alt. too. I cranked the engine several times to build the oil pressure. It went up to 25 last time I looked at it.

When chasing down electrical gremlins, you can bench test an alternator with a bad reguator. You can't bench test a regulator. At least that's what I'm told.

Fuel pump arrived in the mail. Interestingly enough, the instructions said to make sure the Oil pressure switch is funtioning otherwise the unit won't work.:-\ Luckily, I have a new one and am going to install it at same time.

No real reason in particular. Just wondering if there was any benefit.

Fur my 81 Gl wagon. manual tranny. I am tracing down some engine electrical issues and was wondering your thoughts on eliminating the external voltage regulator and going with an alt that has an internal one. Good idea or bad?

Thanks Naru. Much appreciated. makes more sense now. Although I haven't figured this fuel pump cutout switch thing yet. At least two sites sell this part suppposedly for this vehicle.

Just thought of something> It seems that this thing might have an inertia/kill switch for the fuel pump. I had a printout of this part hiding on my desk. Could this be the culprit? Where would this bad boy be located?

Thanks John. I think just replacing it is the way to go. I'll probably pull the Alternator as well and ahve it tested. Much obliged. Must wait til it warms up though. Today wind chills are in the minus 20's soupposed to get worse.

I'm not following how the alternator affects the fuel pump? Doesn't that just juice the battery back up? it looks like an original fuel pump so it probably bad just from sitting. I thik I might just pull it and hook it up direct (with a 15amp?) fuse direct to a battery and see if it will suck fuel from a can. Good idea or not?

81 wagon 4wd ea81 engine Manual tranny. I am resurrecting this thing. hasn't been run in awhile. The carb isn't getting gas. I checked the two fuel filters. The first has fuel in it. The second one doesn't. When you turn the key, there is positively no sound whatsoever coming from the pump. I unplugged the connection to the pump, and slapped a volt/ohm meter on the connection and cranked the key. The meter moved. It is a brand new batt. Is the fuel pump shot or am I missing something? Also, In checking the auto part store (online) the are a couple different styles. One is a Master(brand) # E8058, another is a Carter in-line one that looks like a window weight. Thoughts on these?

Acutally it was carb cleaner (soory about that). Figured I'd kill two birds with one stone. I will pull the plugs and change the filters ( gas x 2) if the weather holds. It is getting cold up here. I am going to assume that that the fusible link is behind the cluster that I'd have to pull or not? Snapped the radio antenna off when putting a car cover over it. Arrrgh Good news is whilst scrounging around the local graveyard, I spied a GL-10 with some primo wheels and new tires!!! Will probably pick them up so I can have a summer and winter set(w/dedicated snows). Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the assist. You were dang close on the GMC 454 for the jumper rig. It was GMC with 350! Hey also since you have one that is real close to mine, is the 4wd light supposed to be on all the time? I ask because when I sprayed down the carb and cranked she ran (turned over) for like 3 secs until the ether was gone. During that time I noticed the light was on. It is also on when you turn it to accessory right before engaging the starter.

Am new here. Am resurrection a '81 Gl Wagon EA81 4wd manual tranny. Was attempting to jump the battery. Did the negative cable to the block. Cranked fine, but no fire (yet). I noticed all the guages seemed to work. Yippee. Then changed the negative cable to the battery post(probably a mistake). Then cranked again. Same thing. Gave up far a couple of days. Tried again, but this time noticed the the speedo and tach (mainly) and a few other dash lights didn't light up when key was turned. Did I smoke a resistor or relay or fuse or something? Where would it be at and and is a replacement available ? Any help appreciated here.