opelsuby

81 gl wagon 4WD 1800. Idling after a bit, smoke (whitish) seems to be coming from the converter. This car hasn't been run in about 10 years. If the cat or O2 sensor is leaking, should I replace with a new cat or just eliminate it ( theoretically of course). What would be the repurcussion of eliminating it? Oh we are a no emissions test state so that's not an issue. Does the dash light up if the O2 is disconnected? I did a search but didn't really find an answer. If new cat, thoughts on which one. Online search has them all over the board. How about a new cat without the O2 sensor?

There are also some plastic ones from an outfit called Best kits

I ran across this on Evilbay. Should help those of us that don't want to cut metal in the doors and still get some decent 4 inchers in there. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320147987371&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011

Theorectically this may work. I pulled the lever on my 81 wagon. Nothing at the bottom that is supposed to be there, i.e. bushing, clip, and rubber grommet. For the time being,I tried this,,, went to the hardware store with the shaft in hand. Went to the rubber grommet section. I grabbed the smallest one and worked it on. Re-installed and noticably less sloppy as well as less vibration. Methinks the grommet is acting as a dampener. Haven't driven it yet though, still need a clutch. Tis worth a shot. Also, the return spring if you want to call it that, may be crapped out. I also replaced that too. Total cost of both parts was less than $2.00

Could be. I more than likely will find a mouse condo in there as it has been sitting awile. Wanted to pull it to lube anyhow.

Excellent Jerry. Thanks Mon. BTW. I got the Bull bar on over the weekend. Interesting task but it's on!!

The B* snapped off. I do have a replacement one but it isn't threaded. I'll peek at the inner fender well. thanks.

81 Wagon. Do I really have to pull the whole fender off to replace my antenna or is there an easier way?

O.k , so I don't have to dive tooooo far into it. My 81 wagon EA81 blower doesn't do anything until you hit the last setting. Then he dash lights drop to about half intensity. It still doesn't run though. Thoughts?

Ditto dudes and babes. I've scored about five or six parts from them. They are going out of business so grab em while you can. Ridiculously low prices. I scored some wagon trunk lid supports for like $2.00:slobber:

Just wondering. I just replaced my wagon lid struts cause the old ones weren't doing the job. The old ones have a lot "juice" in them yet but not enough to lift arse end. I was thinking that they might work for a hood assist. Anybody done this? pics would be cool. Also I need a dipstick. See "wanted" section.

Dudes. I am a strong proponent of some silvery-chromey tape that is sometimes called metal tape. Weather, over time destroys duct tape, even the 100mph stuff. Metal tape rocks:headbang: Once you put it on, tis a major bugger to get off. I think the stuff is actually aluminum.

I carumba. I know you gotta start somwhere, but methinks this isn't the job converting and all. Not for Noober.

Perfect. Thanks 4 by!

hey Mon. Appreciate it. Does it have to be specifically an 83 or are there other years that work too?

Holy Crappin Ole! I decided to blow out the line again to get some gas to the carb. I picked up the hose that goes to the 2nd fuel filter. Insert the tip of air compressor and gave her a blast. Bang!!!!! I mean a loud bang. Apparenlty the thing was stuck pretty good as I blew the fuel filter apart:eek: I didn't check to see how much pressure there was. It snapped back together just fine. Turkey baster (again) and squirted the line. It took right off. Checked the shifting...Nope Grinding and won't go in. Guess I will have to put in the clutch kit.

Ahh. O.k. then . thanks for the responses. I haven't gotten the thing to roll yet. The dude who sold it to me knew nothing except clutch problem/ it wouldn't go into gear with the engine running but would with it off. I replaced the cable thinking start with the cheaper thing first. Also, didn't know how long old the one in there was. Since I haven't fired it up for a bit, had to jump batt. Now the friggin thing won't get gas to the carb Guess its back to the air compressor to the line again. I do have a new clutch kit on hand but was hoping that wasn't it. Stopped by the dealer and ordered the three parts at bottom. Clip, bushing and boot. Had to double check on the dust boot. Computer brings it up as tie rod boot. Weird. Total cost shipped was about 16.00. Hey, just thinking, how does the shifter shaft go into the other (not chromed) part? It will spin so I'm wondering if it is threaded. maybe can find somewhat shorter shaft.

C'mon guys. A little help here.

'81 wagoon, 1.8 4wd. I just put a new clutch cable in. In order to get resistance on the pedal, I had to turn the adjusting nut all the way. Old cable was the same. What's funky here? There is no more room for adjustment tighter? Fork looks fine and moves. Thingy (mount) that holds the fork also looks fine as in not bent. Oooh almost forgot. on the shifter rod, the books shows there is supposed to be a rubber bushing, dust boot and clip. Mine had none. I put a little rubber grommet over the stub. Seemed to tighten up the slop. Do I really need those parts?

As a NorDakoootan, I can attest to the fact that weird stuff happens to cars only in our State. Maybe it is due to residual radiation left over from our Minuteman Misssles. At on point, we dang near had more of those than people:eek: Glad you made it o.k.

I will check the cable and the mounting thingy. but to answer a couple of questions. Car off: Will shift into all positions and stay there. Car on: Will NOT go into any position...grinding sound. Clutch kit arrived yesterday. Good deal. only $60.00 shipping included! It is a remanufactured one from Fort Wayne Clutch something or other. Part number matches the new LUK brand. All pieces are there.

i bought this from aq guy who really didn't know anything about it except that there was a clutch issue. It had sat for about 6 years or so. I've been gettin it back into running condition. When the engine is running it will not go into the gear position and schtick. When the key is off it goes in and schticks into gear just fine. Haven't driven it down the road. I suppose I could and just stay in first gear. I haven't dove into the shifter and clutch guts.

Good news. I checked at a couple of places about putting in the clutch. The one place grilled me with questions about symptoms. He asked if I could shift it with the engine on. I asked why that would matter? (Noobie and all). He said when the engine is running it spins that stuff down there. If I couldn't shift it without the key on, there was transmission isuues not clutch. As a last resort, I stopped by the Subaru delaership. They are last resort because they have only been open a couple of years. While waiting for the service guy, I wandered up to the parts counter and inquired about a fork. Yup, they could get one but didn't have any on hand. They were like $33.00 The parts guy said they almost never need them. BTW, the service guy never got back to me. I went home and tried to shift with the key off. Wallah!!! No tranny issues. I did notice however, that the clutch doesn't get tight til about 1/3 to 1/2 the way to the wall. Before the service guy got hung up on the phone I had asked him if they had anyone that had worked on one that old '81. I was looking in the service bay and thought my car was older than anyone in there!!!

I've got to get my clutch replaced. I have a kit on the way. I'm pretty sure this is the problem. I won't shift at all into the gears. But was just wondering.... if my fork is toast, where does one get a replacement?

I found this on a local site http://www.bismanonline.com/getListing.php?tcat=&cat=&p=1&a=115730