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If by "left" you mean the driver's side, then it's not the oil pump which is right smack in the middle of the engine (around the crankshaft front snout) and has a tendency to leak under the timing belt cover and not over. The part of the engine you refer to is quite near the oil fill tube. Is it not possible that the leak comes from where this tube enters the left cam cover (there is an O ring there). I had to stop a leak there on my car a while back.

It depends on how slow is slow. I've often noticed that my Subaru starts a little slower than most other cars (specialy the american ones), but it always starts even during the coldest winters. Other cars : v-v-vroumm ; Subaru : gna, gna, gna, gna, vroum. The number of times the engine revs before starting is the same be it summer or winter, it's just a little slower in winter.

At any auto part store you can get special high temp grease specialy for that application.

In my car's (man trans) owner manual it's written not to push start it cause it would damage the catalytic converter. I dont understand why. Anyone?

Reading the subsequent replies, I must admit I was wrong. I did all four struts on my car two years ago but honestly dont remember the exact details. If that spacer is tapered it must be for a reason and that reason must be to make a point of contact between the strut seat and the strut mount so that contact and pressure only applies to the inner part of the ball bearing (the part that moves). So it means the tapered part must go on top and in contact with the mount. There would be no reason to install it the other way. With the spacer under the spring seat instead of on top of it, it's possible for the spring seat to rub against the outer part of the ball bearing (part that does'nt move) thus damaging the seat and the bearing in the long run.

The only effect I can see is that the spring preload will be slightly less (proportionnal to the spacer's depth). If you feel no ill effects on the way the car handles over bumps, I woud'nt worry about it. Just an opinion though. Wait to see if a strut expert will chime in. Good luck!

I put rebuilt front calipers (and new rotors and pads) on my car recently. They are very reasonnably priced when you take into account what they give you for the core. Looking at yours, I think replacement with rebuilts would be more in line than messing with them. Just my opinion. Take care.

The cooling fans are triggered by the coolant temp sensor thru the ECM. Maybe this sensor is acting up at a specific temp range. Cheap fix. A little hard to get to but nothing out of the reach of a DIYer. Make a search on this forum and you will find lots of info on how to find, and replace it. No use to test it. It's cheap enough so that if you get it out it's better to put in a new one. On a 95 it's already up for replacement anyway. Good luck!

If you have no binding on turns and if AWD works OK I dont see why you should have the transfer clutches replaced. Ask them how they came to the conclusion that it needed replaced. The "vent" or separator plate is sometimes cause of an oil leak between the engine and transmission. Unless you're loosing a lot of oil (you say there's nut much oil underneath) it usually can wait to be replaced. My two cents.

And maybe it's just the slide pin that's corroded and needs a cleaning, polishing and relubing. Take a special look at the rubber bellows that protects the slide pin. Maybe it's ripped or dislodged and is letting water in. This need a special high temp grease found at any auto store. Good luck!

They are known to live not far from the Platinians.

I have no experience with raw fuel smells but i remember reading here a similar thread where the culprit was a leaking fuel rail connection somewhere along where the injectors are (maybe on the right - passenger - side). If the purge canister trail leads you nowhere, maybe try looking around the intake manifold for signs of leaking fuel.

At regular intervals (3 to 4 months) my engine starts shaking at idle but the idle speed is correct and stable. Each time I get rid of it by using a top end cleaner directly fed by a vac line on the throttle body. I suspect that shaking is caused by carbon build up that produces a mild case of miss in some cylinders. You could try a shot of Seafoam or similar cleaner in the top end and see if the condition goes away. Good luck!

No you dont. Just push aside some wires and hoses and use a ratchet extension.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&highlight=climate+control+light

Does it just squeeze in when you torque the wheel lugs or do you press it in or bang it in from the inside?

Thanks, but I know what «bump» is for. What I did'nt understand is why he linked it to my post instead of to the last one in line. Just wanted to know if I was missing something.

If you permit me to differ LosDios, I dont think so. Cause everything will still be moving (rotating) except that small lenght of removed shaft. I dont think that will same much gas.

32mm or 1 1/4 "

?

If it was the coolant temp sensor, you would have the problem at each start up and not only after the car has been sitting for a week. The fact that it only shows up after a week makes me think that it's fuel related. Starting from here, it's all speculations. In a week's time, the fuel can drain from the fuel lines and if you have a dirty fuel filter or weak pump, maybe it takes a little time for the pressure to get back to normal. I would begin by replacing the fuel filter if this has not been done for a while. If it does'nt work, test the fuel pressure at start up after a week. If fuel pressure is OK., then hope for more expert help which you are sure to get here if you're patient enough. Good luck!

It will not be so easy up here. Rust is ennemy no 1 in Montreal.

I'm bookmarking this. That's a lot more than I asked for ! Thanks a million !

I know I will have to do this sooner or later and I'm slowly getting readiy for it. I read everything here, I bookmarked the link you're talking about and I already bought a 12 ton press cheap. What I would like to learn from you is the size of the sockets you used to press out and in the hub and the bearing itself. They are probably too big to already be in my socket kit. Thanks for reporting back.

Like a golf ball ? That must have been quite a hail storm !