frag

I went to their site and what they claim is impressive. Where and how did you buy their stuff Commuter? Am I right in reading that the second coat is with the same stuff and not with something else?

When I replaced my front axles, i met with a similar problem. I used a fine triangular file to clean the inside of the hub splines. No problem after that. Good luck!

1) The axle's nut is what's holding the hub and wheel in place. 2) Maybe you could separate the axle at the outboard CV joint and pull the rest of the axle from the trans. 3) If you do that you wont have any power in front (open diff) 4) All of the power will go to the rear. I guess one could do that and drive the car cautiously for a while. THAT'S ONLY AN OPINION. I REPLACED MY FRONT AXLES ONCE BUT NEVER HAD TO DEAL WITH SOMETHING LIKE YOU HAVE. EDIT: What is preventing you from driving with the shot right axle?

Like Nipper said: check crank and cam sensors. Your Chilton's should be enough to guide you in doing this.

Meanwhile, have a look at this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40613&highlight=acetone

Been using orange Prestone Longlife (5 years or 240,000 kilometers) since I have the car (almost 6 years) and have had no problems. Claims to contain no silicates and phosphates, to be specialy recommended for aluminum radiators and to improve water pump life.

Got more than one pound of dog chow stuffed there by mice out of my sister's car heater blower cowling. They did that in less than 12 hours. Mitsubishi Spider. Made quite a racket when she first started the blower motor.

See above...

You seem to be able to break bolts quite easily... Stay away from kryptonite

Was that site known as "1st Subaruparts" ?

Just called Carquest and they have it here in Montreal. So there's a good chance they have it nationaly. Good luck!

I did'nt check personnaly but Car Quest is supposed to have it in Québec. Maybe also in B.C.

What do you think happened? Valves are now seating better?

Souds weird to me. I did all four struts on my car and I dont remember the springs being able to move sideways. Could it be that the springs and struts you used were not made for each other? That said, I hope everything comes out well for you.

I have no difficulty believing that. When I replaced my front half-axles, I replaced the inner bearing seal as well and to this day keep asking myself how a dry seal like that can survive having even a new shaft outer cv cup rotating inside it for thousands of miles. I thought about packing the inside of the seal with grease but decided against it thinking that, if hot grease got past the seal and got onto the cup, it would attract sand and grind down the seal in no time. Anyone knows something specific about the solution of this "problem" ?

No left hand thread. Takes an heafty breaker bar.

I thought a racoon went "squwash a quishy" :-\

Could be anything but you could look at damage done to the gas tank, fuel pump and fuel lines at the rear of the car. My best guess. Gool luck!

That's too bad! Hope you find a good used one cheap. Good luck!

If you drilled out all of the thread portion (back side), the only thing that's left is the bolts smooth shank. There is no way this is not going to come out if you use a sturdier punch and heat the part of the nuckle the pinch bolt goes thru. Use lots of penetrating oil first. My 2 cents.

Count me in.

For your sake, I sincerly hope there's a zero missing there somewhere! Edit: sorry, I misread your post. I guess one must read "has been up by about 50 miles" and not "up to about". Just my less than perfect command of the english language. By the way, what happens if, in the "edit" window, I click on "Go Advanced". I'm afraid to try...

I did exactly that on a Loyale and on the left side of my Brighton. Works very well. And much easier to remove the next time. Be sure to get a self locking nut. I put the same torque on it as on the original bolt and it still holds after more than three years.

If doing it that way, is it necessary to bleed the system and if so how?

If you go thru the trouble of replacing the PS fluid, then maybe do what some of us did here a while ago: replace the fluid with Mobil 1 AT synthetic fluid. Probably not necessary but might prolong the life of the system and is sure to give you a good feeling. Take care. P.-s.: To do the best job possible, remove the old fluid with a turkey baster (like said earlier). This will not remove all of the fluid. Put new fluid in. Start the engine and move the steering back and forth to mix the new with the old. Repeat that two or three times.