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There is also the possibility of a broken timing belt.

The electrical (magnetic) part is held to the mechanical part (lower part)on my 96 Legacy 2.2L by two screws going thru elongated holes in the top part(for factory adjustement). I just marked the place of the top part relative to the lower one and replaced accordingly. So I was speaking only of a mechanical setting not of an electrical or electronical one. Hope I'm clear.

You did'nt say which car you have. For my part i recently cleaned the throttle body and IAC with no ill effects at all. I replaced the electrical part of the IAC as close as I could to the initial settings and had no idle problems.

Question answered : 90 - 94 Legacies have a rear washer fluid reservoir and pump. The single two pumps front reservoir must have been introduced in 95. Note that this is irrelevant for the first poster who owns a 96. Again, sorry for the false generalisation.

I'm not trying to tell you what to do svexpert, just what is working for me. I think that's the board's spirit. Happy hollidays!

Permit me to differ. It's not doing twice the job exactly for the reason i have already given. First it's useful to force flush the cooling system. But it also is useful to bleed the system of air pockets that you cannot get rid of by using only the rad opening and bleeder screw. Many people here have testified to the difficulty of getting rid of air pockets in the system while using only the rad opening and bleeder screw. The T fitting gives you one more exit point for air and one more place to completely fill the system. I'm not sure it's the reason why, but using that method I never had air pockets problems after having flushed and refilled the cooling system. Just my experience. YMMV.

Not on my 96. If your recolection is right, maybe they went to a single reservoir in 95 or 96. Sorry for the false generalisation then.

I've seen stranger things:). What kind of Subaru do you have?

I have 143,000 miles (10 years) on mine and it's still working fine. No noise. I have had a new clutch kit ready for more than a year now but still no need to replace it. Maybe I'll do it next summer as preventive maintenance. Would'nt want to have to do it during the winter.

I'll have to look but when you add a T fitting, the brim of the top opening of the T is then maybe the highest point in the cooling system. In my case, I remember that when I could'nt get any more coolant in the rad thru the rad's opening, I could put some more thru this T fitting.

Not so. Legacies have only one washer fluid resevoir and two pumps.

Do you have auto or man trans? If you really hear nothing and it's a manual, it's either the clutch pedal defeat switch or the starter's relay. When it does'nt start, pump the clutch pedal several times going to the bottom of it's travel. If it suddenly starts, you found the culprit.

Affordable and easy to repair. Please tell you boss to keep it that way. I'd like to think that the Brighton spirit will one day soon come back.

Hi ntsmiths, did'nt you forget a couple of good reasons? Hope I'm not pushing the humour too far... Just wanted to say hello!

No, cause I had replaced it two years ago and had smeared everything with a thick coat of antiseize grease. I had to replace it again cause the protective rubber boot got caught on something and teared. One thing though that I learned replacing those things (two on a Loyale and now three on my actual Legacy) is that it's much easier to get the head of the joint out of the knuckle if you first raise the wheel a few inches. My car is on stands and I put a piece of 2X4 on my hydraulic jack just under the brake disk and lift about 4 inches. If you dont do that the control arm is near the lowest point of its travel and will not easily go any further down. After that I remove the joint from the control arm with a pickle fork and install the new one. To put the head back in the knuckle, I remove the jack, install the new joint in the control arm and then push down on the control arm with a big crow bar using the end of the sway bar as a fulcrum. I then guide the knuckle back over the ball joint with my right hand and let go. If the pinch bolt resist removal, you'll have to heat it to red and then let cool before resuming your efforts. Take care cause I've already broken two (one on the Loyale and one on the Legacy) and had to drill them out and replace with longer bolts and locking nut. It works fine though and is much easier to remove afterwards. Good luck!

Yes, electronic ignition is way better than the old carbs and disties. It's often very very cold here in Montreal between december and the end of february. The Loyale and the Legacy have always started. What's interesting is that when it's really cold, -20 to -35° C., the engine turns over slower but catches after exactly the same number of revs than when its milder outside (about 4 IIRC).

Be charitable Nipper, he surely meant water in the gas.

The writings on the prestone kit I used recommended one specific hose. I presumed there is a difference. No valves? and the thermostat?

I'm with Josh that it's the starter or some relay between the key and starter solenoïd. Your car does'nt start and 1° later it does. It does'nt sound like the battery. Batteries rarely charge themselves up.

I did exactly that a few years ago with no problems. I think you cut the hose that brings the fluid to the heater (inlet). I dont remember which one it is but I will look this afternoon if nobody chimes in with the answer and presuming it's placed the same as in your car. Moreover the opening on top of this T is very helpfull, in team with the bleed screw on the rad, to get rid of air pockets in the cooling system. It's a good idea to place the T at the highest point possible.

I just replaced the right ball joint on my car. Test: put the car on a lift or on stands. Place yourself on the inside of the wheel, push and pull on the bottom part of tire or wheel while looking closely at the ball joint where it goes into the knuckle. Even slight wear will show a noticeable movement there. If it does'nt move but the rubber bellows is torn, replace.

I'm sorry but I have none. I do my own maintenance and repairs and do business, for parts, with Scotti on Jarry. I had them replace a wheel bearing on my former Loyale a few years ago and they did a good job at a fair price. If you ever go there insist that your car be taken care off by Thierry. Hope I will me of more help next time .

Do you mean you then check the oil while the engine is running? If so, it's normal that nothing registers.

Since you first described your engine's condition as a "rattle", since the n° 3 cylinder (rear passenger side) is very close to the Y pipe's heat shield, and since it's a good thing to eliminate all cheaper possibilities first, are you sure you're not hearing a heat shield rattling? My heat shields rattle when I let off the gas. I know the sound is not the same as a connecting rod knock but, for my part, i'm not sure I would always be able to make the difference. Just in case.

1stSubaruparts has a separate heater core listing for 95-99 Legacies. So they must be a different beast.