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Is that not only once every two revolutions ? On the other one, when the crankshaft timing mark is set, #1 is at the top of the exhaust stroke.

Like the guy says himself in answer to a question : 28 bids does'nt equal 28 bidders... And if there are more than one bidder, that would maybe just prove that some people have a hell of a sense of humor. I'll soon be using something very similar but under my brake pedal when I bleed the brake fluid (to prevent the master cylinder's piston to go too far and maybe strike some unused and maybe oxydized part of the cylinder and damage its seal.) I'll manufacture the thing myself though, now that i have understood the idea... I know... that's patent stealing.

That's a view of a 97 Legacy front strut, not sure what a gtb and Bilstein are though. https://www.parts.com/schematics/images/mechanical/F732080.gif The strut mount is missing.

If this works for canadian Subarus, I would'nt mind knowing more about my car. Hope i'm not abusing. 4S3BK4254T6309734 TIA

I think the voltage values should rapidly oscillate between .2 volt and .9 volt

For my part, I just dont remember (4 years ago). Hope you'll have better luck with others who have done the job more recently. Sorry!

Thanks for reporting back! Lots of people here try to help and it's a joy when we learn it was not in vain. Lots of other times we do our best and miss the target.

I just looked at the video. If it works as promised it's even better than JB welc cause you could build up the boss around the pulley bolt (without the pulley this time), and then remove the bolt and have new threads. If it does'nt work you could then go back to the JB weld plan. Good luck!

(1) Too risky in my opinion. I broke a water pump bolt once on my former Loyale and someone drilled the bolt out and retaped. He drilled a little farther than the original threads and opened up an oil passage = had to replace the engine. (2) If it were my engine I would do something like that. If the broken part is well prepared and JB weld is well applied, i think you could built up that boss so it will hold the pulley. If at all possible, I would begin by dressing up the remaining part and bolt, install the pulley and bolt with red locktite on the remaining threads putting as much torque as I would feel the metal can take and then surround the accessible part of the bolt and boss with JB weld. Even if it takes a few successive coat. If you ever do that, dont forget to buy a new idler pulley cause it will have to remain there for the rest of the engine's life. It's not a nice situation. Good luck!

The photo shows the cam sensor with the cam belt cover off. On your engine, its, just on top and behing the black plastic cam covers on the drivers side not far from the dipstick. The crank sensor is just behing the crank pulley. Find it and then follow the cam belt cover egde to the right and you'll find the cam sensor. It's much like the crank sensor.

At the time, I bought the factory tach from the dealer (around 100$ Can then) and IIRC the screws came with it. Good luck with the install.

Very important to compress it VERY slowly. IIRC, the manual says 2 minutes or something of that magnitude.

Did you do that during the bouncing idle episode? If the temps sensor is the culprit (I had similar symptoms on a Loyale that were coolant temp sensor related) you should see the temp readings also bouncing at that moment. If not you can rule out the temps sensor. Sorry if maybe giving advice too obvious. Just trying to help. Good luck!

Be aware that it's only the front tip of the crankshaft that may be damaged, the part that sticks out and holds the pulley. I dont see how a wobbling crank pulley could "bend" a crankshaft. Some people here had that damaged part of the crankshaft (keyway) welded and a new kewway cut. Wait a while and they will probably chime in with good advice.

Underlined passage : do you mean you tested the resistance accross the connector of the ECU Temp sensor and if so how did you do it?

Here's a link to the gauge I'm talking about. I have the 60 psi one. And it's only 20$ USD. http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?Type=Mini_Pressure_Chrome&Series=Mini_Pressure&Cart=

1) About the fuel pressure gauge, here's what I did. I bought and installed an inline miniature (but sturdy, it's made of stainless and brass) fuel pressure gauge from VDO (no more than 25$ USD) and spliced it directly in the line between fuel filter and fuel rail. You just have to pop up the hood to know what's happening with your fuel pressure. It also helps to answer the old question if the engine ever stops working : spark or fuel?. You can also carry it from one car to the other cause all there is to do is cut the line and splice in the T fitting. 2) I dont think your car has two pumps but two pickups and two fuel gauge senders cause of the rear drive shaft that has to be cleared by the tank. The pump is on the passenger's side and both sides can be reached thru a removable plate behind the rear seat. Hope that helps.

The double gauge project is just an experiment. I would'nt propose this as normal practice. I like mechanical work. I like to take good care of my car and save some money in the process. I also like to learn about things and am ready to do some experiments. Everybody seems to agree that it's not a good thing to keep a dirty filter, but there are differences of opinions on how long it takes to make a filter dirty enough so it causes a restriction of the fuel flow to the injectors. I just would like to find an answer to this question. Take care.

If I can be permitted to be so shameless as putting forth my age (62) and a little experience with women as arguments, I think this is in all likelyhood the symptoms of the beginning of a very torrid love story. Mark my words.

Maybe you could also check that someone did'nt install higher wattage lamps in you car. I remember stories about those lamp producing lens and connection meltdowns. Just a tought.

Rattle! Sorry, could'nt resist! Heat shields perhaps?

If this is an answer to my post(s), read again.

Why not just disconnect the vac lines at one end or at the other?

f. j. you're asking more of me than you gave yourself in your post. Why should I be the one to bear the complete burden of the proof ? Aint just! If I can simplify my argument : it seems evident that a pump working against higher pressure will be prone to wear faster than one working against lower pressure. The only questions as far as I'm concerned are (1) "what quantity of dirt in the filter will cause a restriction sufficient to raise the pressure between the pump and filter - and make the pump work harder - and (2) how much should the pressure be raised at the pump to shorten its life by a significant margin." I will perhaps be able to partly answer the first question in the future. I already have a fuel pressure gauge in the line going from the filter to the fuel rail and regulator. I will try to find another gauge of the same type and install it between the filter and pump and then will be able to compare the two pressures. The small VDO gauge being not very expensive (only problem will be to find another one), if it can save me one fuel filter replacement, it will have practicaly paid for itself. The rule will be : the fuel filter will need replacing ONLY when the upstream (of the filter) pressure will be higher than the downstream pressure. As for the real world effect on the pump's longevity, I'm afraid that will remain a matter for speculation. Take care.

I've underlined and numbered three passages in your post. I'm no fuel pump expert, but I have some doubts about each of these statements. (1) The pump is not "pumping high volume under pressure higher than the fuel pressure at the injectors." If the fuel pressure regularor is set at let's say 30 psi, the fuel pressure at the pump will be no higher than 30 psi. The pump on my car is capable of 60-65 psi but this pressure is present at the pump only if I pinch the fuel line downstream from the pump. For the same reason a moderately dirty filter will increase the pressure at the pump while maintaining a constant pressure at the injectors (if the regulator is good). (2) At 30-40 psi, a pump able to produce 60-65 psi is working easy, is freely spinning and not working hard exactly like an engine that is permitted to rev. (3) The condition you describe here is like logging an engine (high load at low revs) and we know that this is the worst condition for an engine. I think it is the same for a fuel pump. For these reasons, I think that a dirty filter, by increasing the pressure at the pump, by creating a condition where the pump strains at lower revs, will make it run harder and hotter and shorten its life. For the sake of argument.