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I would like to know more about this tool also. TIA.

Can I have one? Black.

If your batt has been discharged a couple of time it's been damaged as of now and maybe will not be up to par when it gets cold. Why not buy a new battery instead? It's about the same price. You could keep the old one in a warm place and charged with a trickle charger (cheap). Could be of some use in a pinch. My two cents.

It's hard for an oil pump to go bad, it's so well lubricated . Most people service them at belt change : one O ring behind it, back plate screws sometimes need retightening and whole pump body has to be sealed against the block. When I did the belt on my car, I replaced the O ring and resealed but the back plate screws were still tight so I did'nt touch them. I've been on this board for a few years and dont remember anyone ever posting about having replaced the pump. If someone did, he will maybe chime in. Good luck!

It's actually on automatic. But you can go to your personnal prefs and write there anything you want.

You just push a button (red) on top of the shift lever. Works very well. You only put the 4WD on when you need it. Rest of the time your car is a front wheel drive.

You will have better feedback on the «old gen» forum. Even if the Loyale is of an after 1990 model year, it is almost identical in mechanical nature to the pre 1990 GLs, etc. I had a 1992 Loyale for a year and a half and probably would still own it today if it had not been stolen. Apart from multiple oil leaks (all repairable), I think the 1.8 L engine is bullet proof. Had no special problems apart for normal maintenance for an 8 year old car (at the time).

If by any chance you mean «pulsating» when you say «vibrating» and if these pulsation tend to dissapear when you apply the brakes harder (push more firmly on the pedal) it could be something as simple as brake pad deposit on the rotor surface probably put there when holding the brakes at stop lights. When this happens to me, i clean the rotors with brake cleaner and it goes away. Maybe not your problem but worth a try. Good luck!

FYI, the low gas light does'nt glow when ignition key is at «ON». It's the only idiot light that does that and I think it's not a good idea.

Just a thought. Whatch out how you connect you timing light to the plugs wires. On a Subaru engine the wires are so close together that you can pick up the other wire signal on top of the one you're testing if you're not careful. Happened to me. Best to connect near the plugs where the wires are wider apart.

Your locking mechanism is rusted and the return spring that pulls the handle back towards the car after you open the hatch is no longer strong enough to do its thing. Permanent cure : replace part of the mechanism or clean and lubricate. Temporary cure : push on the hatch handle BEFORE unlocking, unlock and then pull et voilà.

You could also get a blank from a dealer and go to Walmart and have a copy made. They have a very modern machine that does a great job. I had a copy made by them last summer and it works smoother than the original.

You guys must be blind or at least short sighted! It's obvious what's wrong! The shapely blonde at the rear is looking at an empty gazebo and not at the Subaru! Get her a doctor quick!

A leak at the rear is probably the rear crank seal. The problem is you have to remove the trans to get to that one. Are you looking at a clutch replacement in the near future? There is also the separator plate there that can be leaking but the consensus seems to be that it does'nt leak very much, not in the magnitude that your're describing. Good luck!

The fact that it's a chain only tells you not to trust the banner blindly. Every Midas shop is an individual. I know two in the Montreal region: one hosts a bunch of incompetent thieves and the other, recommended by the APA, is the only place where you can have the Subaru down pipes (Y) repaired at a reasonnable cost instead of replacing them when they develop a crack. So each one is an individual case. My 2 cents.

There is a second cat just back of the first one. The second (downstream) O2 sensor is there. Yes a leak just where you describe can disturb the O2 sensors function. But after the mileage you quote, a new one would'nt be a luxury. Other than going to a mufflet shop to maybe have a new flange welded to the cat, I dont see how you could devise a permanent cure to your leak. But others might have better ideas. Good luck!

Sexiest rocker assembly I have ever seen. Good thing this was not a video, it would certainly have been illegal.

With a spark that strong, you probably dont even need gas. The perfect cross between the internal combustion engine and the electrical motor?

Sorry for the false info. I just checked and the alt for my car (96) is $67.50 but 179.96 for yours like edrach wrote. I think both are Subaru genuine rebuilt. What would explain such a price discrepancy!!!!!?????

Or you could try 1stSubaruparts. I think their price is around 60$ and it's a genuine Subaru rebuilt.

No that's complete. Thanks a million!

How did you pinpoint which lifter it was? Just trying to learn. TIA

I'm still looking for the missing link between the Loyale and the Legacy.

Loosing oil through the cam or/and crank seals will do nothing to lower the oil pressure, but a dried up oil pump O ring or/and a loose oil pump backing plate can.

No expert on brakes, but is it possible that it's only the brake caliper slide pin that's rusted, gummed up, etc., and preventing the caliper to slide back once it's pressed (with attached pad) against the rotor ? That would be much easier to fix. Check if one pad (the one not directly in front of the piston) is much more worn than the other. If so my hypotheses might prove right.