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Either I'm way way off in my understanding of the workings of rad caps or rad caps are pressure and not temperature operated.

Some details would be appreciated. TIA.

Nice indeed! But nothing for my Legacy. Any DIYer has any idea?

I knew it! Replacing struts that fast is abnormal and will give you cancer. :)

Maybe make a search on this forum with "running lights". It should get you all the info you want and save you some aggravations... In my case, if it's dark enough to be able to think the headlights are on (running lights) it's dark enough to see that the gauges (mainly speedo and tach) are not illuminated and that the tails are not on. But that's me of course. May the light be with you.

I second your question (or request). I've got a new rad waiting for install cause the old one (10 years) has its lower part blocked by bugs and by bent fins (small rocks). Not showing any sign of overheating yet (save the fact that the fan kicks in a little sooner now when I'm stopped and engine is idling) but I prefer an ounce of prevention... I was thinking of installing a piece of door screen behind the bumper's openings to protect the new one, but have not yet devised any precise method of installation. Any other ideas?

I did'nt know there had been a 1.8 SPFI Legacy. Not much help, but my feeling is your problem has to do with the alarm being taken out in a sloppy fashion. Could it be that the "Test mode" connectors have been connected together when things were "tidied up" under the dash ? If Legacy 777 thinks this is a possible cause of what's happening, he would be the best person to help you find out if this is the case. Good luck!

Another possible easy fix (just a turn of the ratchet) culprit of sloppy steering is a loose universal joint between steering column and steering rack (check closely cause there are two of them in line and the lower one is not easy to see). It fixed my case of sloppy steering and at no cost at all.

No significant leakage. The only hassle is freeing the way to the sensor (vac hoses and wires to put aside) and disconnecting it before removing (do you pull or push on the connector's locking tab? I'm never sure which and have to fiddle for some time fearing I'll break something).

I can only volunteer an opinion in answer to your first question. When I replaced my cam belt, the cam seals had been leaking for a long time but very moderately like yours. The old cam belt was completely dry, not a sign of oil on it. I think it would take quite a leak to have oil slung unto the belt. Of course, one never know, but that's my experience. I would think you can wait for the next belt change to replace the seals. You might be well inspired to wait for other opinions here before deciding what you are going to do. Good luck.

I replaced that switch on my car a few years ago, so it must be quite easy mechanicaly speaking. The only problem is physical, you must not have too large a tummy to be able to squirm under the dash in order to reach that switch. To be sure it's the culprit and to see if you can take care of it yourself, try to disconnect the switch near the upper part of the pedal arm (like Olnick wrote) and short the wires. if your brake lights come on, then that's it. Then just buy a new switch - not very costly - that will help you understand what you have to do to replace it. Very intuitive once you've seen the switch.

Buckle the seat belt behind the dog.

I'm very happy with this one. It's a software you install on a laptop or Palm. It not only reads codes but gives realtime output of most of the sensors. http://www.ghg.net/dharrison/obdscan.html

Well, I'll be... And I was nursing the hope of being able to brag about my car five years from now... Should I put a hush on it ?

You can learn how to read your engine's codes on Legacy 777 page (is a moderator here) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru Go to "Notes and Tips" and "Engine related"

Reading on this Board is like attending Car Repair University. You guys are realy clever. I learn new things every day. Thanks. A lurker.

If he drove on the doughnut at more than 50 miles an hour or/and for more than 50 or 80 miles (i dont exactly remember which), he might very well have ruined you center clutch pack and you are now suffering from "torque bind". Dont pannic yet, cause maybe it's reversible. People here whose car have suffered from the same ailment will certainly tell you what you can try before getting into costly repairs. Good luck.

On my car (96 Legacy) the different relays are identified on the cover of the fuse box. Not so for your car?

It breaks my heart when I think of those billions of orphan electrons left in mourning.

Dont quote me either, but I'm pretty sure the alt on my 96 Legacy puts out 85 amps.

Thanks. I tried popping it out mechanicaly and it did'nt. I'm waiting to hear from my insurance.

Maybe I'm misreading the description you give of the "symptoms", but my car does the same from day one and I've always seen that as normal. If by "driving a short distance and parking", you mean starting the engine from cold and driving a short distance, then it's normal. The ECU sends a richer mixture at startup (equivalent of the ancient "choke" )and the revs stay higher during this time till the engine has had a chance to warm up. Pardon me if I got your problem wrong. Good luck!

Well, it depends. A candle is a light, and lighting is setting fire to... I would'nt want to contribute to the demise of popular wisdom. Not me.

Or maybe a subliminal political statement ? Slyly getting attention to the Bushing on the right...

That's what I would recommend. You're lucky it's only 17$ at 1stSubaruparts. Moreover, it's probably the easiest part to replace on your engine. One connector and one bolt.